Swimmerboy2112
New member
Yes that is the LC Engineering kit I mentioned in my first post. Any good?
Best Rebuild Kit for a 3.4?
- Thread starter Swimmerboy2112
- Start date
Yes that is the LC Engineering kit I mentioned in my first post. Any good?
Swimmerboy2112
New member
That thought is planted firmly in my mind. Both my Taco and 4Runner are supercharged so this motor will surely see boost. Forged internals would help me break the 300whp mark in my Tacoma. I'm so close now.
That's the reason I want a full rebuild, I don't want to put this motor in and have something go 1/4 mile down the road.
I will be porting and polishing everything I can on this motor. I have also seen some info on using mid 90's Camry cams on the 5vz to pick up some more midrange/top end power. I'm on my phone so I can't post the link but it was an interesting read.
txbonds
Senior Member
I've been drooling over thoughts of building this one up with a turbo or supercharger but man it would be so costly it just wouldn't make sense. Nice dream though. 
5VZ Pro Short Block
5VZ Pro Short Block
Swimmerboy2112
New member
I've been drooling over thoughts of building this one up with a turbo or supercharger but man it would be so costly it just wouldn't make sense. Nice dream though.
5VZ Pro Short Block
Wow that'd be awesome! But for 5K+ you could have another 4Runner haha.
Still would be sweet, low comp ratio + a ton of boost = one happy camper.
Not sure? I just know that they have some pretty good parts.
That seems really expensive for a short block?
BrianSD_42
New member
Sorry but my intentions were just to point out "why fix something that isn't broken"
If in tearing it apart you see a need to go farther than the heads because the CYL are blown then that makes sense but you mentioned there is no indication anything beyond the heads needs changing.
So why rebuild a Toyota V6 at 200K PREVENTIVELY?
I'm not trying to be a d#ck but that was the point of my question. I've seen plenty of threads where this question was asked and the conclusion was if the main block has no history of problems then leave well enough alone.
I have new heads as of 199k miles, now at 220k and going strong. LOT OF US ARE GOING STRONG at over 200K miles with no problems on the main block. I'm doubtful that rebuilding the main block would have been an improvement since right now there is nothing wrong with the CYL, main block, etc.
And there is always a major chance that when you rebuild it could be a step down from the way it was before. Especially if there was nothing wrong to begin with.. Perhaps I'm missing something but I'm surprised others haven't chimed in here.
If in tearing it apart you see a need to go farther than the heads because the CYL are blown then that makes sense but you mentioned there is no indication anything beyond the heads needs changing.
So why rebuild a Toyota V6 at 200K PREVENTIVELY?
I'm not trying to be a d#ck but that was the point of my question. I've seen plenty of threads where this question was asked and the conclusion was if the main block has no history of problems then leave well enough alone.
I have new heads as of 199k miles, now at 220k and going strong. LOT OF US ARE GOING STRONG at over 200K miles with no problems on the main block. I'm doubtful that rebuilding the main block would have been an improvement since right now there is nothing wrong with the CYL, main block, etc.
And there is always a major chance that when you rebuild it could be a step down from the way it was before. Especially if there was nothing wrong to begin with.. Perhaps I'm missing something but I'm surprised others haven't chimed in here.
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Swimmerboy2112
New member
I had their headers on my 86' 22re they were great!
Yeah that's LC Engineering for ya.
txbonds
Senior Member
Yeah, it is. It's all these parts they use driving it up.
Forged Piston Set (Your Choice of Compression Ratio)
Custom Forged Crankshaft
Chromoly Crossbeam Connecting Rods
Oil Pan & Pick-Up Tube (Installed on Block)
Fully Machined Block
Completely Balanced Bottom End
New OEM Main Bolts
ARP Head Studs
Timing Belt & Timing Belt Tensioners
Lower Belt Covers
Brass Freeze Plugs
New Water Pump
New Oil Pump
For the HP goal you mentioned, that would be a great starting point.
If you still want to rebuild your engine, I'd use that parts/ procedures list as a guide. With the 5VZ-FE being a bi-metal motor, it can be a bit more finicky to seal. With higher HP goals in mind, especially so.
At a minimum use a quality MLS headgasket, with the block properly decked for absolute flatness, as well as the heads, and make sure the RA number finish on the deck and heads is appropriate for the MLS gaskets.
At the very least, use new headbolts, but the ARP head studs as listed above, are preferable.
Depending on what your time is worth, and how badly you want to get involved in the rebuild, I'd give strong consideration to just buying that complete short block you listed.
When it comes to performance, you can have cheap, or you can have good.
txbonds
Senior Member
Swimmerboy2112
New member
You are correct. I will be completely re-doing this motor the right way. That includes ARP head studs and all. I want this to be done right.
KidVermicious
New member
I've got nothing to add, just posting to subscribe. Lots of good info here guys, keep talking!
Swimmerboy2112
New member
I've got nothing to add, just posting to subscribe. Lots of good info here guys, keep talking!
I take it this is sarcastic...
vipergrhd
New member
head studs
I know that your planning on running an SC on this engine but let me remind you that if you use studs it could be an issue removing the heads later on if something down the road happens,i would suggest just using new head bolts or ARP if it's available.Just my 2 pennies.
I know that your planning on running an SC on this engine but let me remind you that if you use studs it could be an issue removing the heads later on if something down the road happens,i would suggest just using new head bolts or ARP if it's available.Just my 2 pennies.
KidVermicious
New member
No, not at all. Sorry if it came across that way?
There's not near as much info on the site on rebuilding the 3.4 as there is on my 22RE, and it's something I'm going to have to do sooner or later, so I like these threads. I want to know where the best rebuild kits come from, and I want to hear about mistakes people have made or things that make it easier, I love these threads. No sarcasm at all, I promise.
Swimmerboy2112
New member
I said studs, what I meant was new head bolts. Sorry for the confusion. ARP doesn't make any for the 5VZ but LC Engineering does make a kit for the 5VZ.
No, not at all. Sorry if it came across that way?
There's not near as much info on the site on rebuilding the 3.4 as there is on my 22RE, and it's something I'm going to have to do sooner or later, so I like these threads. I want to know where the best rebuild kits come from, and I want to hear about mistakes people have made or things that make it easier, I love these threads. No sarcasm at all, I promise.
Sorry man. Didn't mean any disrespect, just wasn't sure what your intentions were. Rock on. :thumb3:
Seems as if we are looking for the same things from these types of threads. I'm open to all types of opinions from people. The more the better!
This comment surprises me. No offense intended, but what issues would head studs present, when/if removing the head(s) later on?
I've removed and installed a lot of Cylinder Heads over the years, that were retained by head studs. Numerous high-performance street car, and Motorcycle engines, and far more insanely overpowered racing machines, I've never had or heard of an issue solely due to head studs.
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