Best video explaining KDSS

[jlficken]

Thanks for the reference. Jetboy always knows his stuff. Now, I only know enough about this system to be dangerous… If the system is open all the time, then what purpose do the valves on the controller serve when performing lift installs? Or is that essentially just combining a “recal” of the system at the same time of lift install?

Here’s why I’m asking. I’m installing my Dobinsons lift on Thursday (finally…) and I want it to be as loose as possible to see if I can get it in without actually disconnecting the sway bars. Many seem to accomplish this… I don’t want to open the valve bolts because my driveway is not level and I don’t want to open them there. Thanks.

This is a good video on dealing with KDSS while upgrading the suspension.
GX460 Icon Stage 2 lift and 285s - YouTube

 

[Ripper238]

This may be the best place to ask this… I’ve read conflicting things on here before. When does the system go “limp”? I think it’s below 12mph, but I’ve heard some say it must be in 4lo but others say no. I’ve never seen conformation. Right now, sitting in my drive way, is it limp? Allowing the pistons to easily move up and down?

The video implies it goes "limp" when the force of movement opposes the other, when the force of movement is equal its therefore stiff. Its not speed specific, its passive and fluid.

So sitting in your driveway there is no force of movement opposing the other so it would be stiff.

 

[BlueRidge77]

The video implies it goes "limp" when the force of movement opposes the other, when the force of movement is equal its therefore stiff. Its not speed specific, its passive and fluid.

So sitting in your driveway there is no force of movement opposing the other so it would be stiff.

I don’t know about that. Lots of folks who did not open the valves talk about having to ratchet the piston up when sitting (drooping on jack stands I should say…). I will be exerting my own force on the opposite side to get it to drop more. I guess I’ll find out tomorrow… Thanks!

 

[Ripper238]

I don’t know about that. Lots of folks who did not open the valves talk about having to ratchet the piston up when sitting (drooping on jack stands I should say…). I will be exerting my own force on the opposite side to get it to drop more. I guess I’ll find out tomorrow… Thanks!

When you ratchet the piston up that is causing a force of movement that opposes the other so that would make it "limp". So that makes sense that people are doing that.

Good luck, you will definitely know for sure tomorrow.

 

[honda250xtitan]

Thanks for the reference. Jetboy always knows his stuff. Now, I only know enough about this system to be dangerous… If the system is open all the time, then what purpose do the valves on the controller serve when performing lift installs? Or is that essentially just combining a “recal” of the system at the same time of lift install?

Here’s why I’m asking. I’m installing my Dobinsons lift on Thursday (finally…) and I want it to be as loose as possible to see if I can get it in without actually disconnecting the sway bars. Many seem to accomplish this… I don’t want to open the valve bolts because my driveway is not level and I don’t want to open them there. Thanks.

first time i installed new shocks i opened the valves. Now i dont even bother. i dont notice a difference to be honest. Floor jack and alignment pin for the front. you can roll the floor jack while your jacking the piston up to line it up better, than use the pin to get it closer. its still a bit of a pain. The back end i found its easier to disconnect the clamp on the actual sway bar instead of disconnecting from the axle.

no lean here. 2.5" with kings up front. 1.5" with wheelers springs in the back.

 

[BlueRidge77]

first time i installed new shocks i opened the valves. Now i dont even bother. i dont notice a difference to be honest. Floor jack and alignment pin for the front. you can roll the floor jack while your jacking the piston up to line it up better, than use the pin to get it closer. its still a bit of a pain. The back end i found its easier to disconnect the clamp on the actual sway bar instead of disconnecting from the axle.

no lean here. 2.5" with kings up front. 1.5" with wheelers springs in the back.

Thanks!! Jetboy recommended using spring compressors on the rear and you don’t have to disconnect anything! I’ll see if I can do that… I’ll report back.

I’ve got all my parts, tools, help, beer… I’m ready to rock and roll! Nice long weekend!! Thanks Juneteenth and the state of Virginia. (I work for VDOT…)

 

[honda250xtitan]

Thanks!! Jetboy recommended using spring compressors on the rear and you don’t have to disconnect anything! I’ll see if I can do that… I’ll report back.

I’ve got all my parts, tools, help, beer… I’m ready to rock and roll! Nice long weekend!! Thanks Juneteenth and the state of Virginia. (I work for VDOT…)

actually those worked well for me swapping from t13 to the TOytec HD 2" springs. The toytecs required spring compressors. The wheelers fell out after taking everything apart lol

 

[BlueRidge77]

first time i installed new shocks i opened the valves. Now i dont even bother. i dont notice a difference to be honest. Floor jack and alignment pin for the front. you can roll the floor jack while your jacking the piston up to line it up better, than use the pin to get it closer. its still a bit of a pain. The back end i found its easier to disconnect the clamp on the actual sway bar instead of disconnecting from the axle.

no lean here. 2.5" with kings up front. 1.5" with wheelers springs in the back.

I just took my pre lift measurements. No lean on the back and only 1/8” low on passenger side of the front. (1/2 tank of gas) I don’t know if I should put the trim packers in or not. I know the more you lift the more it can make it lean… the front I can adjust with the coilovers, but not the back… You had no lean before or after?

 

[honda250xtitan]

correct. I believe once you hit the 3" front and 2-2.5" lift rear you run into lean issues. YMMV.....