better-than-OEM oil filter?

[Endlessblockades]

I have hemmed and hawed about these for a long time for myself. What, if anything do you dislike about it?

Of 6 models they currently offer which one of these valves do you have? I'm assuming the F133N?

(I have been mentally digesting having one of these on a vehicle for a decade)

I dislike nothing about it. It is very high quality and made in Japan. They have an office here in Santa Rosa, CA. Yes, I use that long-nipple variant so I can hose-clamp my drain tube to it. the hose rides behind my skidplate 24/7 and I can access the open/close valve lever and fish the hose out through the drain hole (4XInnovation skid).

 

[phattyduck]

Thanks, again. will stay away from Fram and Wix. Definitely like the idea of more filter area so I will stick to either Toyota or Purolator. ... and will pre-fill.

You can't pre-fill on the 5vz unless you do a filter relocation. If you REALLY want to avoid a dry start, you will have to disable fuel or ignition temporarily and crank for a bit after you complete an oil change. Or you can realize that there are tons of 5vz's out there that have done 300k+ miles without doing that, often with much worse maintenance that you will be doing from now on...

And to those thinking about a Fumoto valve, just do it. You still need a tool for the fender liner removal to get to the filter, but otherwise, tool (and jack!) free oil changes are quite nice. My drain tube also stays on the rig all the time, just barely poking out the drain hole in the aftermarket skid plate.

-Charlie

 

[igetfortunota]

PMing you Charlie

 

[pluton]

The D3 filter offers one advantage: If you're reaching in from the left wheel well to grab it, it's about another inch closer due to it's added "height". When reaching in at arm's length, this could help being able to grab it firmly by hand.
The Fumoto spigots seem like a good idea, except they hang lower, and become...in my mind...vulnerable to getting sheared off by rocks on the trail.

 

[Robb235]

Their point basically, was the standard oil filter size was all that was needed and the extra big filters with the extra oil has no added benefit.

Bigger filter means more filter media, filter can last longer. At a time where better synthetic oils allow for longer oil change intervals, makes sense to have a larger filter that can better handle those longer intervals.

 

[phattyduck]

The Fumoto spigots seem like a good idea, except they hang lower, and become...in my mind...vulnerable to getting sheared off by rocks on the trail.

It is about 6" above the skid plate... how often are you offroad without your skid plate?

Here's a reference pic from the rear (while replacing the steering rack):

You can see the hose coming down from the oil pan. The valve is so high that you can't even see it from this angle. (only the rad skid is in place, the engine and trans skids are removed)

-Charlie

 

[Previologist]

I've always used Wix 51516 on all of my Toyotas. Not saying it's better than OEM by any means, but it's bigger and the only one that got less than 300k+ blew a head gasket, and that was a Previa which are famed for blowing HG's. Even that one was at or above 280K

 

[gh25_]

first post! just acquired a very nice 2000 SR5 5-speed-manual with 191,000miles.

going through and changing fluids. is there a better and/or higher capacity oil filter for these vehicles that is widely and successfully used?

Thanks.


this is a great site. I have learned a ton in just a few visits (hope I will be able to contribute something of worth over time).

Honestly my opinion on this is that the OEM denso oil filter whatever the part # is for our trucks is the one that all of our trucks came off the assembly line with, its the original equipment and for how cheap they are that's the oil filter i will put back on. at my dealer the filter is like maybe 4-5 bucks lol. The same as fram or other options but it's OEM. That's what the truck came with so that's the one i'm putting back on :noidea:. For me I do 3,000 mile intervals on my oil changes so I am changing it early anyways. IDK i just try not to overthink too much about that lol. Toyota already has the dedicated size and yaddy yadda for our trucks. I am sure they would have went with a bigger filter if it fits but they have the specific size so I trust that it's fine. just my 2 cents.

 

[phattyduck]

Honestly my opinion on this is that the OEM denso oil filter whatever the part # is for our trucks is the one that all of our trucks came off the assembly line with, its the original equipment and for how cheap they are that's the oil filter i will put back on. at my dealer the filter is like maybe 4-5 bucks lol. The same as fram or other options but it's OEM. That's what the truck came with so that's the one i'm putting back on :noidea:.

The filters you you get at the dealer are nowhere close to the same as the original filter the 4Runner came with - or were even at the dealer 20 years ago. That's not to say it isn't a reasonable filter choice - I use the OEM D3 filter too. Simply because it is the only filter with a real o-ring (pre-lubed, even!). Easier to get on and off and better at sealing than the square profile "o"-rings on basically every other filter.

-Charlie

 

[PerfectTommy]

Wix and Napa Gold are the same filter. Fram is $hit, and purlator? WTF are you guys smoking?

Agree that Fram, with a couple of exceptions, is not a great choice. Wix seems to have fallen off from its glory days (and I have used Wix in my Miata for a long time).

If you scroll back through this thread, [MENTION=97491]JoeT4R[/MENTION] makes a compelling argument for the Purolator.

 

[TheDurk]

Three pages and no one has mentioned my choice, which has got me to 250k. First, I am a wix fan, and have used NAPA gold exclusively on my cars and tractors since the 1970s. I have never had an engine issue that could have had anything to do with lubrication. The only engine I lost was a 30-year old Mercedes that my mother decided to drive with no coolant. "Oh, I did see a green puddle under the car at the supermarket".

In my 4Runner, for the last 150k, I have run the oversized NAPA Platinum PFL 41516 which is full synthetic media and a wire mesh structure. I get very good results from Blackstone at a 7-7.5k OCI with SuperTech Full Syn 5w-30.

 

[JoeT4R]

Agree that Fram, with a couple of exceptions, is not a great choice. Wix seems to have fallen off from its glory days (and I have used Wix in my Miata for a long time).

If you scroll back through this thread, [MENTION=97491]JoeT4R[/MENTION] makes a compelling argument for the Purolator.

I’ve never used the purolator filters before, just Wix, Fram, Toyota D1/D3’s, Napa Gold and I think that might be it.

 

[gh25_]

The filters you you get at the dealer are nowhere close to the same as the original filter the 4Runner came with - or were even at the dealer 20 years ago. That's not to say it isn't a reasonable filter choice - I use the OEM D3 filter too. Simply because it is the only filter with a real o-ring (pre-lubed, even!). Easier to get on and off and better at sealing than the square profile "o"-rings on basically every other filter.

-Charlie

Yeah that is also one of the reasons I like the Toyota filter as well haha. I still lube it up with oil even though it has stuff on it just habit i guess. But honestly I haven't payed much attention to the difference in the seal on it. interesting to know though. and true haha i am sure they are different now. I just buy them mainly because they are cheap and OEM cant go wrong haha.

 

[brillo_76]

The filters you you get at the dealer are nowhere close to the same as the original filter the 4Runner came with - or were even at the dealer 20 years ago. That's not to say it isn't a reasonable filter choice - I use the OEM D3 filter too. Simply because it is the only filter with a real o-ring (pre-lubed, even!). Easier to get on and off and better at sealing than the square profile "o"-rings on basically every other filter.

-Charlie

hmm.. my come prelubed.. Interesting..

 

[brillo_76]

Three pages and no one has mentioned my choice, which has got me to 250k. First, I am a wix fan, and have used NAPA gold exclusively on my cars and tractors since the 1970s. I have never had an engine issue that could have had anything to do with lubrication. The only engine I lost was a 30-year old Mercedes that my mother decided to drive with no coolant. "Oh, I did see a green puddle under the car at the supermarket".

In my 4Runner, for the last 150k, I have run the oversized NAPA Platinum PFL 41516 which is full synthetic media and a wire mesh structure. I get very good results from Blackstone at a 7-7.5k OCI with SuperTech Full Syn 5w-30.

I ran napa pro select standard size for a while. Then went back to Toyota standard size about a year or so ago.

 

[brillo_76]

Bigger filter means more filter media, filter can last longer. At a time where better synthetic oils allow for longer oil change intervals, makes sense to have a larger filter that can better handle those longer intervals.

IF that works for you great. I never run any oil over 5K miles and the longer changing intervals are not a good thing. The oil gets contaminated with deposits no filter media will catch. [Just like Transmission fluids]

Synthetic oils are a major improvement. However, 10k 15k or 20K oil intervals will damage engines. Even my newer vvti engines get 5K mile oil change. If one does 10K oil changes on those vvti engines they will start dying at 100 to 150K from engine wear.. As that is what CarCareNut has seen. As he is master Toyota tech for quite a while. 5K miles intervals are the max.


Folks can always do as they wish. I just know I am not going to waste money on larger filters. Nor will I run any oil past 5K.

Do you really think these oils are not going to let the engine wear when its contaminated? As we are seen issues with 10K intervals on the newer toyota engines.

 

[PerfectTommy]

Well, will do a change later this week. Due to a compressed schedule had to go with what is available locally. so, here's the plan:

will change the oil and refill with Valvoline "Restore and Protect" and use the OEM standard (YZZD1) filter.
it will be a short interval; will change the filter after a few hundred, to maybe one-thousand miles.
depending upon what I find will use another standard size for another short -or longer- interval, then move to either the 'D3' or the Purolator.
after things look reasonably 'restored' will extend the oil change intervals to 5,000 miles, but plan to continue using the 'Restore and Protect'.

 

[Jungoes]

I've used FRAM for the past 14 years with no issues... you can use what ever you want. I'm happy with fram and frequent oil changes and will continue to use them.

I'm not going to increase the filter size unless I can cut one open and compare the spring rate on the bypass valve..if you don't know this .. good chance you might be bypassing the filter completely or risk collapsing the element if the bypass spring rate is higher.

 

[Robb235]

IF that works for you great. I never run any oil over 5K miles and the longer changing intervals are not a good thing. The oil gets contaminated with deposits no filter media will catch. [Just like Transmission fluids]

Synthetic oils are a major improvement. However, 10k 15k or 20K oil intervals will damage engines. Even my newer vvti engines get 5K mile oil change. If one does 10K oil changes on those vvti engines they will start dying at 100 to 150K from engine wear.. As that is what CarCareNut has seen. As he is master Toyota tech for quite a while. 5K miles intervals are the max.


Folks can always do as they wish. I just know I am not going to waste money on larger filters. Nor will I run any oil past 5K.

Do you really think these oils are not going to let the engine wear when its contaminated? As we are seen issues with 10K intervals on the newer toyota engines.

Not gonna spend the money on a larger filter with better filtration, but gonna change your (I'm assuming fully synthetic) oil every 5k miles? Sorry, but that's absurd. Especially with how notoriously easy on oil the 5vz is.

 

[brillo_76]

Not gonna spend the money on a larger filter with better filtration, but gonna change your (I'm assuming fully synthetic) oil every 5k miles? Sorry, but that's absurd. Especially with how notoriously easy on oil the 5vz is.

That's your opinion and your entitled to it.. When the contaminates are smaller then the filter media how are you going to filter those out? I would rather change oil and filters keeping the oil containment low then running oil longer.