bfg ko2 load c vs load e (discount put on wrong tire)

[4by4runr]

So as some of you may know I went to discount tire to get some BFGs. I specifically asked for load c knowing that load e are heavier and I don't do much trailing. I've already got an alignment. I've driven on them a bit and don't notice any harshness but I didn't really want to take the hit on MPG if it's not needed, especially considering I'm moving 2000 miles in about a month.

Opinions on C VS E?

or anything I may not be taking into consideration.
Thanks!

And my receipt says load c 112

 

[AuSeeker]

Well first you got a much better tire with the E rated version, but you will take a hit on MPG, if you can live with that I would say keep them.

How long have you had them installed and driving on them?

If not all that long take them back and demand that they swap them out, if you have had them on for more than a few weeks you maybe out of luck since you shold have inspected them after the install and now have to sell them and then get the correct tires, you could play inexperienced/dumb and tell them you had no way of knowing it was the incorrect tires until an experienced friend pointed it out to you and may get them to do the right thing.

 

[MAST4R]

There is no point in getting the E unless you really can use the 3-ply sidewall, which you can in Arizona. If moving 2000 miles away, however, you won't actually need those.

They are not "better" tires, they are simply "different" tires with higher load capacity and, in the specific case of the KO2, better strength for offroading, too. They are stiffer so that's better for handling and cornering but thereby also harsher.

If you want to have the middle ground, DT claim they offer D load in 265 70 17, which should be acceptable. It has a 3ply sidewall as E but won't be as harsh on road.

To me, as far as KO2 go, the LT-D is a winner.

Btw, I offroad in AZ on P-metric tires. The LT-D KO2 will probably be my choice if I feel the need to go back to a 3ply sidewall.

 

[4by4runr]

Update

Called discount tire to get this resolved. I am quite happy with the tires, they don’t actually seem as rigid as everyone let’s on, the ride is on par with what I’m used to. So I proposed that instead if them having me come back up there, waste my time, them pay for another alignment, and waste more of my time, that they give me the certs for their tires. And we’ll call it good.
They did and we are (good)!

Another happy accident!

 

[zeekevin]

I had the e load ko2 and like the ride, but recently switched to the c load ko2 which shaved roughly 10 lbs a tire, it is softer so all I did was just run a higher psi in the tire

 

[0verland]

Personally, I chose E rated too and don't regret it. Here in Arizona I would def rather take the slight hit in MPG to have a thicker ply tire.

 

[phqduphead]

Called discount tire to get this resolved. I am quite happy with the tires, they don’t actually seem as rigid as everyone let’s on, the ride is on par with what I’m used to. So I proposed that instead if them having me come back up there, waste my time, them pay for another alignment, and waste more of my time, that they give me the certs for their tires. And we’ll call it good.

They did and we are (good)!



Another happy accident!

Glad they made it good. I’ve had great service with discount for 20 years. I can’t imagine that the E would make a huge impact on mpg, maybe 1, also changing tires would not require a new alignment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[4by4runr]

Well you guys have all given me some great insights. I took the tires on a midnight run down a stretch of rough paved road (at45psi) to simulate the roads back in Michigan. I had only driven these so far on fairly nice freeway and the like. I have to say I’d agree that there is simply no cushion. And unfortunately as awesome of a deal as these are (4 with certs for $880) they are overkill for my needs and unnecessarily rough. Most wheeling in MI is just roots/muddy so I’ll be taking them back to get the c load that I wanted in the first place.

I read a couple other threads on here about c vs e and in order to not destroy the tire you basically have to live with the stiffness 45-50 psi unless wheeling. I’m mostly commuting but I’ll have some tougher terrain when I head out fishing or hunting in mi.

Thank you to everyone here for your insights!

 

[4by4runr]

Well first you got a much better tire with the E rated version, but you will take a hit on MPG, if you can live with that I would say keep them.

How long have you had them installed and driving on them?

If not all that long take them back and demand that they swap them out, if you have had them on for more than a few weeks you maybe out of luck since you shold have inspected them after the install and now have to sell them and then get the correct tires, you could play inexperienced/dumb and tell them you had no way of knowing it was the incorrect tires until an experienced friend pointed it out to you and may get them to do the right thing.

Discount tire has a pretty clean 30 day return policy - one of the reasons I go there. I’ve never had a customer service problem there.

 

[Rodtheviking]

What tire pressure did they set them to? I have E loads and run 26 front and 24 rear, ride is just fine but have to deal with the tire light on. I did the "chalk" method to find my pressure with my given set up.

 

[4by4runr]

What tire pressure did they set them to? I have E loads and run 26 front and 24 rear, ride is just fine but have to deal with the tire light on. I did the "chalk" method to find my pressure with my given set up.

They’re set at 45psi all around. Running them on the freeway at 26-30 could be catastrophic due to the heat build up in the sidewalk.

 

[hinmo24t]

They’re set at 45psi all around. Running them on the freeway at 26-30 could be catastrophic due to the heat build up in the sidewalk.

my LT 6-ply kumho (dont think they are listed as E though) have a cold pressure max of 50psi...im running them at 34lbs right now and they feel good. i dont think you wanted to run those load E with so much PSI, must have been super harsh lol

 

[Inv4drZm]

They’re set at 45psi all around. Running them on the freeway at 26-30 could be catastrophic due to the heat build up in the sidewalk.

I would try 30-35 psi before getting rid of them. As far as driving with real low pressures, my rig and a couple others drove an entire week all around moab with less than 20psi at highway speeds with no bad effects, your mileage may vary though. I think we've done that for two vacations there come to think of it.

 

[Rodtheviking]

This is the method I used with a good explanation.

Tire Pressure Checker: Righting the Pressure in Your New Tires | 4wheelparts.com

I guarantee you are running on the center of your tires, and they feel like bricks.

 

[YetiX]

This is the method I used with a good explanation.

Tire Pressure Checker: Righting the Pressure in Your New Tires | 4wheelparts.com

I guarantee you are running on the center of your tires, and they feel like bricks.

I'm really surprised how low you're running your tires. Every tire place/guy that I have consulted has said that E load tires should be run at higher psi. I run my 265/70 Ridge Grapplers at 45 psi and they're comfortable on the street and wear evenly.

 

[4by4runr]

I'm really surprised how low you're running your tires. Every tire place/guy that I have consulted has said that E load tires should be run at higher psi. I run my 265/70 Ridge Grapplers at 45 psi and they're comfortable on the street and wear evenly.

I think they are forgetting that the e load tires have a max psi of 80psi or 2900 pounds per tire. They are made for heavy loads. Airing down to 20-30 puts a lot of force into The sidewall that builds up heat and can cause failure. The correct chalk test shows 45-50 as optimal. Again these are not c load. I’m not going to argue because you are free to do what you want, it’s your tire and your moneys
Thank you all for your contributions.

 

[YetiX]

I think they are forgetting that the w load tires have a max psi of 80psi or 2900 pounds per tire. They are made for heavy loads. Airing down to 20-30 puts a lot of force into The sidewall that builds up heat and can cause failure. The correct chalk test shows 45-50 as optimal. Again these are not c load. I’m not going to argue because you are free to do what you want, it’s your tire and your moneys
Thank you all for your contributions.

Agreed. So are you switching to the C load or keeping the E's?

 

[Inv4drZm]

I think they are forgetting that the w load tires have a max psi of 80psi or 2900 pounds per tire. They are made for heavy loads. Airing down to 20-30 puts a lot of force into The sidewall that builds up heat and can cause failure. The correct chalk test shows 45-50 as optimal. Again these are not c load. I’m not going to argue because you are free to do what you want, it’s your tire and your moneys
Thank you all for your contributions.

The heavier the sidewall the lower the pressure you can run. And should run. You have the certificates why worry about 'heat' buildup destroying a tire, I've never heard of this happening.

30-35 psi should be tried before getting rid of them and I can guarantee you they will wear evenly, all of mine have. All ten tires I've had on my truck and 5 on my brother's have been fine.

If 30-35 psi is still too rough then at least you will know.

 

[davidaw]

Cant comment on the tire science questions but I've had the KO2s for 2 years and 40,000 miles. 275 70 17, E Rated
Been running at 35 on Hiway. No wear problems.
Have not seen much of a drop in MPG but I know there must be some.
Did cross country wheeling trip to CO, UT. Spent a few weeks on the beach at 15 psi.
Various mild off-road trips.

These tires look brand new. Best I've ever had.

Like someone said, it feels good knowing you have the extra meat if you need it. Especially if you are 50 mile from no where.

 

[Benski]

I have BFG KO2s E load, my third set, and I run 32psi front 30psi rear. I don't air up or down, I just drive! I got 107k miles on the first set, and 87k on the second set. I rotate them at 7,500 per the owners manual, and they wear evenly and last a long time. The tire is very durable off road, runs quiet, and looks great!