bfg ko2 load c vs load e (discount put on wrong tire)

The heavier the sidewall the lower the pressure you can run. And should run. You have the certificates why worry about 'heat' buildup destroying a tire, I've never heard of this happening.

30-35 psi should be tried before getting rid of them and I can guarantee you they will wear evenly, all of mine have. All ten tires I've had on my truck and 5 on my brother's have been fine.

If 30-35 psi is still too rough then at least you will know.

So you never heard about the Firestone/Explorer mishap that left a couple hundred people dead. Ford made an executive decision that to make the ride more comforting, they spec'd the pressure to be 26 psi on the oem Firestone tires instead of the 30psi that was on the tires. This combo of heat/an existing defect and low pressure caused the separation. And no, they didn't add the 3ply sidewall so that you could reduce the pressure so you could have a nice ride and protection.

To address others' comments, I'm moving back to Michigan where E load is really overkill for wheeling as there are very VERY few rocky areas in Michigan, mostly mud and sand or roots. If I were staying in AZ I might give it more consideration. I think the E is a fine tire, just not for my needs. Pointless loss of MPG and increased harshness.

YetiX;
I went with the C's, running at 40psi and the ride is great.

Aside:
In the week I drove with them, I noticed about a 2 mpg drop from my coopers which weighed in at 44lbs, the C's are 45lbs so I estimate that I'll get close to my mpg starting point.
 
So you never heard about the Firestone/Explorer mishap that left a couple hundred people dead. Ford made an executive decision that to make the ride more comforting, they spec'd the pressure to be 26 psi on the oem Firestone tires instead of the 30psi that was on the tires. This combo of heat/an existing defect and low pressure caused the separation. And no, they didn't add the 3ply sidewall so that you could reduce the pressure so you could have a nice ride and protection.

Tire manufacturing issue not psi issue. You're comparing a crappy p rated tire made 20 years ago to modern high-end offroad tires. The Michelin tires they used were fine.
 
Tire manufacturing issue not psi issue. You're comparing a crappy p rated tire made 20 years ago to modern high-end offroad tires. The Michelin tires they used were fine.

I'm not going to get into a pissing match with you so have fun.
My input in this thread is finished, thank you everyone who positively contributed.
 
The heavier the sidewall the lower the pressure you can run. And should run. You have the certificates why worry about 'heat' buildup destroying a tire, I've never heard of this happening.

30-35 psi should be tried before getting rid of them and I can guarantee you they will wear evenly, all of mine have. All ten tires I've had on my truck and 5 on my brother's have been fine.

If 30-35 psi is still too rough then at least you will know.

Exactly.

And I give false info in my previous response, I have my E loads at 36 and 34.. not 26 and 24 like I had stated. My apologies, it was late.
 
if they offer 255 75 17 BFG AT in load E i might run them next time around. considering people have accounts of them lasting twice as long as other brands. well see on my kumho at51 though, they are performing awesome so far.
 
I just joined this forum as I need new tires for my 2013 4Runner.

I am getting a new trailer that will weigh about 5,000 lbs and have about a 600 lb tonge weight.

I am wondering if I should be going with a load E tire.

I also wonder what 4Runner owners are liking for tires.

I’ll be on pavement the majority of the time but like to explore and sometimes have to haul the trailer up some non paved surfaces.

Can anyone recommend tires?
 
Anyone actually tried the KO2 265 70 17 rate C?
I'm considering getting the 265, but I see that the load index is lower than the stock (112 vs 113) and wondered if this could be a problem.
 
35 psi is fine in an LT tire for road use. Airing down for the off road if though is totally worth it. Makes for such a better experience. And it allows you to carry so much more speed so much more comfortably it’s not even funny. 20 to 25 is a really nice happy middle for rallying.

I went full the full monty and got an arb twin air portable. Yeah it’s silly expensive, but once you get over the sticker shock, I’d say it’s probably my favorite tool purchase in the last 25 years….. not even kidding. The money I have invested in Mac and Snap-On Tools is a bit nauseating.

That first time I used it, I had that feeling of where have you been all my life?

Airing up or airing down for me is less than a five minute job on the 4Runner. Even aired up the truck tires the other day because I just felt like taking it to 75 for the load I was hauling. It almost feels like using shop air.

I guess if you’re going to be hard on the tires, more meat and mass is never a bad thing. The trade-off is it’s pretty obvious that it’s got some heavy shoes on her when you go down the road.

It really just comes down to what are you wanting to have and what are you willing to put up with.

That all said, if I could find a C rated 265/75/16, 3ply side wall, aggressive, and 3 peak snow rated, it would definitely be a shut up and take my money situation. But that tire seems to be a bit of a unicorn in a 16. Closest there is is the Kanati trail hog in an E rating.

I really don’t want 17s for various reasons. But there is a KO2 size in a 17 that would fit that gets really close, but maybe not quite as an as of aggressive a tires I would like though.

But seriously, don’t fight airing down/up. I fought it fought the last 3 decades and I feel a bit retarded about it now.
 

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