BFG KO2 tread wear

no.

the PSI on your doors is for OEM or OEM equivalent tires, the OEM tire is a P tire

both C and E KO2s require higher PSI to match the original load rating

For the C K02s....i dunno i messed around alot with pressure, I think the magic number cold is 40 front and 38 rear. Best combo of stability vs. being overly firm. at 42 even though its only 2psi, its notably firmer. Below 38 to much flop and squirm. These pressures are for highway use at around 60-70mph.
 
I'd estimate that I have over 40k on mine and I'm completely done with them. They've been loud since around 10k after a long gravel road drive but it's gotten so much worse now that there is significant cupping on both shoulders. I've been running the pressures BFG suggests and rotating every oil change. Maybe I should rotate more often to mitigate the cupping? Either way, the noise, vibration, and terrible wet weather traction is pushing me away from the KO2 all together. They've been great off-road but I spend 95% of my time on the pavement so I can't get another set simply because they're good 5% of the time. I can't say they've been bad but I'm not going with another set until I've tried the Wildpeak's out.

After talking with alot of people who run the K02s most seem to agree that more frequent rotations are needed. I have zero cupping and rotate every 4000-5000km or around 3000miles. I have had many people tell me that going say 5000-6000 miles caused cupping and other irregular wear issues. When I rotate I use standard X pattern. Anyhow mine are quiet and have zero feathering/ cupping etc so far
 
I think that is generally true with any tire having an "aggressive" tread pattern.

Agreed, btw most of those I talked to had the K02s on various vehicles other than ours. I have done what they recommended on very frequent rotations..all good so far.

My guess is the tire has a softer first layer of rubber, that over time wears away resulting in cupping if not rotated, then eventual deterioration of wet weather traction as the rubber wears, ages and hardens. I think its this softer upper layer that if not rotated correctly sets the stage for cupping issues going forward, with once you have the irregular wear it can be challenging to revert back to uniform wear.
 
I'm not sure the rubber is softer in the outer layer but the tread pattern is higher resulting in more squirm and I think that ups the wear early in the tire's life.
 
I couldn't justify the cost. I went with the Falken Wildpeak AT3 (2nd gen of the Wildpeak, I believe). They're snowflake rated and drive awesome on and off road. I'll probably be getting another set when these wear out. I've only had them for about 7-8k, so I can't comment on treadwear.



how do you like the wildpeak ? rain and snow conditions ?
 
For C-rated tires, you should follow the PSI rating on the label inside your door jamb.

Or you can call Michelin/BF Goodrich and they will advise you the correct pressure for your 4Runner/tire combination. Customer service will gladly answer your questions.[/QUOTE

WRONG !!!

As written above, the sticker on the door jamb is for P rated tires, not LT tires.
I have had excellent wear mileage running 38 lbs of air for daily driving on the 6 ply "C rated" KO2's.
 
I know this can be subjective according to driving conditions but there are a lot of negative reviews on the tread wear/life of these tires (on TireRack and BFG's own site). Any 15K+ mile reviews in terms of treadlife? Thanks!


Love my BFG on several vehicles, ranging from 4,500 to 5,500 lbs curb weight. They should last 50-60k miles easy. My friend has an FJ they started wearing in the centers because his dealer pumped them up to 50 PSI with no good reason behind doing so.

I keep an eye on my tread wear (outer, middle, inner) with a depth gauge. If I don’t see any difference I don’t rotate. Once fronts look like they’re down a little farther on tread (2/32+”) than the rears, I’ll go in for a rotation.

My 4Runner is next to get BFG (still on factory Geolandar) C rated are great but on my Durango I switched out for E rated and they’re PERFECT at 45 PSI.


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I just put my second set of KO2's on a couple weeks ago after getting 91,000 miles on my first set. Yep, 91k. I run 44psi per the specs, and I also verified that math as correct based on the vehicle weight. I even had some tread left and could have easily squeezed another 10k out of them. You definatley have to rotate every 5k or they will cup.
 
I just put my second set of KO2's on a couple weeks ago after getting 91,000 miles on my first set. Yep, 91k. I run 44psi per the specs, and I also verified that math as correct based on the vehicle weight. I even had some tread left and could have easily squeezed another 10k out of them. You definatley have to rotate every 5k or they will cup.

I got a bit over 82,000 miles out of my last set of KO2s and probably could have easily put another 10-15k on them but I just threw a new set hoping for a bit more traction. First set were E rated which I was happy with but elected for C rated on the new set. Liked the lower price and I think I am experiencing a better ride quality, however, nothing significant for fuel economy yet; may need to go back to the drawing board on pressures. Appreciate your notes, I'll see what I'm running and check the specs.
 
I got a bit over 82,000 miles out of my last set of KO2s and probably could have easily put another 10-15k on them but I just threw a new set hoping for a bit more traction. First set were E rated which I was happy with but elected for C rated on the new set. Liked the lower price and I think I am experiencing a better ride quality, however, nothing significant for fuel economy yet; may need to go back to the drawing board on pressures. Appreciate your notes, I'll see what I'm running and check the specs.


What did you run the E rated tires at?


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I have about 9k miles on mine, but the wear doesn't seem all that fantastic, honestly. I checked a week ago and I was at 11/32 down from 15/32 new. If tire life extrapolates well, that means I'm on track to get about 27k miles before they are at 3/32.

Alignment was done at the time of install and it was done well, by someone who took the time to align it right. I'll have it checked next week but don't anticipate it will be off much. I've wheeled it, but not only a handful of times, plus lots gravel roads. Maybe the gravel is eating them up, but I'm not sure.
 
I have about 9k miles on mine, but the wear doesn't seem all that fantastic, honestly. I checked a week ago and I was at 11/32 down from 15/32 new. If tire life extrapolates well, that means I'm on track to get about 27k miles before they are at 3/32.

Alignment was done at the time of install and it was done well, by someone who took the time to align it right. I'll have it checked next week but don't anticipate it will be off much. I've wheeled it, but not only a handful of times, plus lots gravel roads. Maybe the gravel is eating them up, but I'm not sure.

Rotation is key as well as routine alignments. Driving style may play a role as well.
 
Rotation is key as well as routine alignments. Driving style may play a role as well.

Yeah, mine are rotated every 5k. The wear is even across the width of the tread and front-to-back. I'd say my driving style is pretty average and normally I don't have issues with having the tires last.

I'm not complaining, though, just stating my experience. When it comes time to replace them I'll probably be going with a different tire, but mainly because I've had balance issues with them -- enough to warranty one of the tires for needing 15oz of weight.

They do work well on the trails here though, especially if they are dry and rocky.
 

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