Big 3/4 Wire Upgrade on 1st gen?

[Cartzo]

I'm in the process of upgrading my wires from the battery to 0 gauge. Has anyone done this? I just want more current flow for when I put a bigger sub in. Plus the wire from the fuse box to the positive terminal keeps coming out and needs to be replaced.

Upgrading:
Negative to Chassis
Negative to Engine block
Positive to starter
Positive to fuse box?

I'm not sure how to get out the wire from the fuse box. I have pulled pretty hard but I don't want to break anything. Does anyone know the right way to replace that wire? Is there a way I can upgrade it to 0 gauge?

 

[TX_QtPi]

you'll have to remove the fuse box (2-10mm bolts) look at the alt fuse it has one of those clip release thingies. flip the fuse box upside down and undo the release tabs on the botom side as well. once you have the clip to the fuse pressed (released) on the top side you can wiggle it out from the bottom.

thw wire is bolted into place on the fuse holder. best I could get in there was a 6GA, you might be able to go 4Ga if you use the soft flexible cable.
Cynthia

 

[Iroke17]

the wiring running to fuses is plenty for what the fuses need if it needed to be bigger they would have come that way from the factory if adding anything big that would cause a problem that should be on its own line from the battery not the fuse box

you can also upgrade alt to pos terminal.

 

[TX_QtPi]

BIG 3 wire upgrade? - YotaTech Forums

there is another one which explains changing the one from the battery to the ALt fuse which I can't find right now, but I did change mine out for a 6Ga, if you're getting the voltage drop when you use your turn signal or radio you'll see a difference for the better

 

[Greg_Canada]

Don't bother with the wire feeding the fuse box. Also NEVER EVER PULL ON WIRES, THAT IS AN EASY WAY TO MESS SOMETHING UP REALLY BAD. You have to take the fuse box apart to change that wire. It is bolted in. But again, don't bother.
Just upgrade the battery to body, engine to body, and alternator to battery wires. Leave the stock wires in place, and add the other lines ontop of them. Make sure you fuse the alternator wire. 4ga. is fine for that wire. 0ga for the engine / body grounds.

 

[Cartzo]

I read all these things about "alternator to battery" but my wire goes from my starter to my battery...

 

[Iroke17]

there is another wire as well just run a new wire from the post on alt to the pos terminal trust me ive made entire harnesses before i know what im talking about.

 

[RAD4Runner]

I just want more current flow for when I put a bigger sub in.

Plus the wire from the fuse box to the positive terminal keeps coming out and needs to be replaced.

I'm not sure how to get out the wire from the fuse box.Is there a way I can upgrade it to 0 gauge?

Negative to Chassis: Upgrade. This is return path for some circuits.
Negative to Engine block: Upgrade. This is return path for some circuits
Positive to starter: No need not upgrade. This only supplies the starter. If you're having starter problem, it's something else, not the wire size. Just make sure you have good connection.
Positive to fuse box: Do not upgrade. Fusible link designed to protect stock wiring is integrated in that. If you need to power additional equipment use separate line with fuse to the battery. If battery can handle cranking amps or a winch to move vehicle weight, it will handle your audio amplifier.

the wiring running to fuses is plenty for what the fuses need if it needed to be bigger they would have come that way from the factory if adding anything big that would cause a problem that should be on its own line from the battery not the fuse box.

You can also upgrade alt to pos terminal.

Concur.

If upgrading alt to batt wire, just eliminate the block that looks like a ferrite core noise suppressor.

It is NOT a noise suppressor, but a junction point.

I am not aware of anyone who has ever used that junction point in the past 27 years. That's just waiting to loosen/corrode (like an appendix with no real use, just waiting to get infected). Get rid of it and replace stock alt-batt wire with one-piece thicker wire direct from alt to where it joins the fuse block.

Don't bother with the wire feeding the fuse box. Just upgrade the battery to body, engine to body, and alternator to battery wires. Leave the stock wires in place, and add the other lines ontop of them.... 0ga for the engine / body grounds.

Concur

Make sure you fuse the alternator wire. 4ga. is fine for that wire.

I do not think it's necessary to fuse alt-batt wire. Stock is not fused. Changing it with thicker wire actually makes it safer and able to handle higher current than stock.

I read all these things about "alternator to battery" but my wire goes from my starter to my battery...

You should also have a thinner wire from batt pos to fuse block. Fusible link is integrated in it. This is how Fusible Link wire looks when disconnected from fuse block.

 

[Cartzo]

Ok so should I just go straight from the alternator to the battery or from the alternator to the starter where it is originally connected?

 

[Iroke17]

I would go straight from alt to bat

 

[Iroke17]

Alt dose not run to starter

 

[Greg_Canada]

The stock starter wire is probably a 4 or 6 ga. If you are having a starting problem, it is the little 18ga wire that connects to the starter solenoid. You can wire in a relay so the ignition switch triggers the relay which triggers the starter.

 

[RAD4Runner]

I would go straight from alt to bat

Alt does not run to starter

Concur.
Just replace alt-batt wire end-to-end with your choice of thicker wire. Do not forget to reconnect thinner wires (white) that tap(s) off the stock one.