Big "3" Upgrade Question

weekendclimber

New member
So, I've done the Big "3" upgrade and I ran across something that has me concerned. Keep in mind, the rig starts and runs fine, but that may not tell me if I have a potential issue.

According to this picture from [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]'s write up, the original white wire going from the battery to the fuse box gets reattached and is essentially not upgraded.



The "1" Wire here (courtesy of [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]):



When I upgraded the wiring, I did not connected this wire (#1). I actually chopped it down and taped the end up with the intention of figuring out how to completely remove it.

What I did do, is connect the 3rd positive terminal wire to what is the alternator wire that comes out on the opposite side of the fuse panel. It's the wire that comes into the fuse panel on the top-right of this photo:



Here's a closer shot (ignore the yellow wire) from [MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] or maybe [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION]:



So, I have connected the fuse panel on the other side of the 120amp fuse and it basically makes my wiring look like this (I removed the line to the alternator and the fuse to the new alternator wiring):



My question is: IS THIS GOING TO BURN MY TRUCK DOWN? I'm failing to see how this might cause a problem, because it all appears to still be appropriately fused. Thought I'd ask just to give myself piece of mind.
 
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So, I've done the Big "3" upgrade and I ran across something that has me concerned. Keep in mind, the rig starts and runs fine, but that may not tell me if I have a potential issue.

According to this picture from [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]'s write up, the original white wire going from the battery to the fuse box gets reattached and is essentially not upgraded.



The "1" Wire here (courtesy of [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]):



When I upgraded the wiring, I did not connected this wire (#1). I actually chopped it down and taped the end up with the intention of figuring out how to completely remove it.

What I did do, is connect the 3rd positive terminal wire to what is the alternator wire that comes out on the opposite side of the fuse panel. It's the wire that comes into the fuse panel on the top-right of this photo:



Here's a closer shot (ignore the yellow wire) from [MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] or maybe [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION]:



So, I have connected the fuse panel on the other side of the 120amp fuse and it basically makes my wiring look like this (I removed the line to the alternator and the fuse to the new alternator wiring):



My question is: IS THIS GOING TO BURN MY TRUCK DOWN? I'm failing to see how this might cause a problem, because it all appears to still be appropriately fused. Thought I'd ask just to give myself piece of mind.

The large white wire that goes to the battery from the bottom of the fuse box is actually relocatable and should be done for proper connection and protection of everything. Which Big 3 kit did you use? On my Big 5 Kit the white wire gets relocated to where the factory alternator cable connects to the top of the fuse box, and the 8 gauge power cable in my kit goes to that location, so that it properly connects everything together.
 
The large white wire that goes to the battery from the bottom of the fuse box is actually relocatable and should be done for proper connection and protection of everything. Which Big 3 kit did you use? On my Big 5 Kit the white wire gets relocated to where the factory alternator cable connects to the top of the fuse box, and the 8 gauge power cable in my kit goes to that location, so that it properly connects everything together.

So, basically it would end up looking like this:



So, it basically means that the other side of the circuit is now fused at 120 amps. I think I'm okay, but I think I'll hook up that white wire to the terminal at the top of the engine bay panel like you suggest. And it's your big 5 upgrade kit that I have.
 

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