Big puddle. Hydrolocked! What now:(

zlasterhazzard

New member
I've been now on here for a while but just did some work building a new metal bumper for my rig and took her out to an off-road area for a little fun. Hit a puddle too hard and hydrolocked my engine. Idiot city slicker problems trying things I shouldn't. Shop it's at says it's hydrolocked and has a bent rod or something so they suggest a replacement.

Currently finding out if my insurance will cover it.

Here's the dilemma I'm not going to want to hold on to the rig after the engine is replaced. I've just been getting tired of it and ready for something new.

So do I get engine swapped then sell it. Try to sell it to someone as is? Other ideas? Figure new engine will run me 4-6k and car is worth 12-16 with it in and only 5-7k with out?

So I'm hoping you guys can help with cheaper repair ideas, shop suggestions in Seattle for the work, ideas on what my rig is worth as is or repaired, other things my idiot butt should do.

Currently thinking of trying to get a 2 door imported g wagon with diesel or d90 after this is all said and done. Current rig is 2006 v6 limited 130k miles overland wharehoue lift. KO2s on it.

Thanks from an idiot!
 

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I've been now on here for a while but just did some work building a new metal bumper for my rig and took her out to an off-road area for a little fun. Hit a puddle too hard and hydrolocked my engine. Idiot city slicker problems trying things I shouldn't. Shop it's at says it's hydrolocked and has a bent rod or something so they suggest a replacement.

Currently finding out if my insurance will cover it.

Here's the dilemma I'm not going to want to hold on to the rig after the engine is replaced. I've just been getting tired of it and ready for something new.

So do I get engine swapped then sell it. Try to sell it to someone as is? Other ideas? Figure new engine will run me 4-6k and car is worth 12-16 with it in and only 5-7k with out?

So I'm hoping you guys can help with cheaper repair ideas, shop suggestions in Seattle for the work, ideas on what my rig is worth as is or repaired, other things my idiot butt should do.

Currently thinking of trying to get a 2 door imported g wagon with diesel or d90 after this is all said and done. Current rig is 2006 v6 limited 130k miles overland wharehoue lift. KO2s on it.

Thanks from an idiot!
damn! that sucks.

I think you will end up being upside down whether you fix it or not. it really depends on how much you still owe(if any). I really doubt anyone is going to pay $5k for it with a blown engine though.

if the insurance will cover it, it should be a total, if that is a true figure for getting the engine replaced. in which case, that is probably your best course of action.


edit: sorry, I meant to ask, is that an actual price quote you got? or just a guess on the replacement cost? seems high to me.
 
Ouch, that's a bummer. I'm not a big fan of shops but the price they quoted seems realistic. I'm assuming that's parts and labor. I'd always be skeptical of the diagnosis. Obviously we're not there when it happened, so it would help to answer some questions.

How would you recall the hydrolock? Was it a violent event or did the engine just sputter out?

Did the engine ever start back up after the incident?

Will it even turn over by hand?

How did the shop diagnose a bent rod? We can assume thats what happened but sometimes an engine can survive such an event and simply flame-out and not start again with wet plugs, sensors.

What exactly did the shop do before calling it bad?

This really depends upon what your wallet can handle. I would rebuild the engine and put it back in, but that's me. Not everyone has the space and tools. I would throw it up on craigslist for the price you think is fair; for about 3 weeks. See what happens. You may come across a buyer in 24 hr. Meanwhile, look for a shop that will do the work and grant a warranty on the engine, not the driver. The new engine under warranty is a big selling point to a buyer but only if the warranty transfers over.


I'm sour on a shop doing an engine swap right now, have a friend that went through a $7k+ ordeal on a long block swap for a Mazda and it was out of service for almost 3 months. Had loose components, problems with the anti-theft, noises and rattles.
 
I had your exact problem, but I have a V8. There are 2 ways to do this, 1 get a new engine and install it (Big $$$ ). Or take the engine apart and replace the broken stuff and put it back together. You will have to do the following:

remove heads, get them decked and replace the bent valves at good machine shop. Most likely they will have to replace a seat where the valve was tweaked by heating the head. Expect about $600 for this service.

remove the piston rod that bent when you hydrolocked it and verify that the piston is not damaged too much from hitting the valve. If its damaged too much you will have to get another piston from the dealer.

buy a complete top end gasket kit ( from head up)

remove oil pan and remove bent piston rod from below engine. pop out bad piston and install new piston and rod into engine (or old piston if it is still good). Use a bottle brush or cylinder head stones on cylinder wall if there is scoring on cylinder.

Install new piston and rod, install oil pan and new head gaskets. Install the rest of the engine you took apart. download a FSM to get the timing and all other parts installed correctly.

Start truck and enjoy.

congratulate yourself on saving $6000.

fyi: I fixed my blown hydrolocked engine and am still driving it for 1500.
 
Last edited:
Did you try pulling the plugs and cranking the motor with the fuel pump fuse out? You can pump the water out of the motor that way.

Hopefully you haven't tried to start it already as that would be catastrophic...
 
That's impressive! Usually the head survives the hydrolock and the short block takes the beating. after a successful hydrolock, the entire block, heads, crank, rods and pistons should be torn down, cleaned, measured, and magnafluxed.

I had your exact problem, but I have a V8. There are 2 ways to do this, 1 get a new engine and install it (Big $$$ ). Or take the engine apart and replace the broken stuff and put it back together. You will have to do the following:

remove heads, get them decked and replace the bent valves at good machine shop. Most likely they will have to replace a seat where the valve was tweaked by heating the head. Expect about $600 for this service.

remove the piston rod that bent when you hydrolocked it and verify that the piston is not damaged too much from hitting the valve. If its damaged too much you will have to get another piston from the dealer.

buy a complete top end gasket kit ( from head up)

remove oil pan and remove bent piston rod from below engine. pop out bad piston and install new piston and rod into engine (or old piston if it is still good). Use a bottle brush or cylinder head stones on cylinder wall if there is scoring on cylinder.

Install new piston and rod, install oil pan and new head gaskets. Install the rest of the engine you took apart. download a FSM to get the timing and all other parts installed correctly.

Start truck and enjoy.

congratulate yourself on saving $6000.

fyi: I fixed my blown hydrolocked engine and am still driving it for 1500.
 
I had your exact problem, but I have a V8. There are 2 ways to do this, 1 get a new engine and install it (Big $$$ ). Or take the engine apart and replace the broken stuff and put it back together. You will have to do the following:

remove heads, get them decked and replace the bent valves at good machine shop. Most likely they will have to replace a seat where the valve was tweaked by heating the head. Expect about $600 for this service.

remove the piston rod that bent when you hydrolocked it and verify that the piston is not damaged too much from hitting the valve. If its damaged too much you will have to get another piston from the dealer.

buy a complete top end gasket kit ( from head up)

remove oil pan and remove bent piston rod from below engine. pop out bad piston and install new piston and rod into engine (or old piston if it is still good). Use a bottle brush or cylinder head stones on cylinder wall if there is scoring on cylinder.

Install new piston and rod, install oil pan and new head gaskets. Install the rest of the engine you took apart. download a FSM to get the timing and all other parts installed correctly.

Start truck and enjoy.

congratulate yourself on saving $6000.

fyi: I fixed my blown hydrolocked engine and am still driving it for 1500.

This is the best advice and cheapest way to fix the problem. If there isn't a hole in the block just rebuild the motor.
 
That's impressive! Usually the head survives the hydrolock and the short block takes the beating. after a successful hydrolock, the entire block, heads, crank, rods and pistons should be torn down, cleaned, measured, and magnafluxed.

I agree with all of that as a normal procedure at any engine builder. I did the same thing with my 22re by driving it into a river and simply replaced a piston rod and all the bearings from the bottom and had the head looked at and decked. After 380,000 miles on that engine with no problems at all I decided to try it on my hydrolocked v8. Its my opinion that the materials that Toyota uses for their engines are so advanced that they can handle a huge amount of abuse without any ill effects for years.
 
I've been now on here for a while but just did some work building a new metal bumper for my rig and took her out to an off-road area for a little fun. Hit a puddle too hard and hydrolocked my engine. Idiot city slicker problems trying things I shouldn't. Shop it's at says it's hydrolocked and has a bent rod or something so they suggest a replacement.

Currently finding out if my insurance will cover it.

Here's the dilemma I'm not going to want to hold on to the rig after the engine is replaced. I've just been getting tired of it and ready for something new.

So do I get engine swapped then sell it. Try to sell it to someone as is? Other ideas? Figure new engine will run me 4-6k and car is worth 12-16 with it in and only 5-7k with out?

So I'm hoping you guys can help with cheaper repair ideas, shop suggestions in Seattle for the work, ideas on what my rig is worth as is or repaired, other things my idiot butt should do.

Currently thinking of trying to get a 2 door imported g wagon with diesel or d90 after this is all said and done. Current rig is 2006 v6 limited 130k miles overland wharehoue lift. KO2s on it.

Thanks from an idiot!

Sorry not on topic, but from fellow WA-er, was this Tahuya?
 
wow that sucks... I love to off-road buy I try to stay out of the water and mud.

All I do in wheel in the desert, and this thread makes me want a snorkel anyways.

Sorry I don't have anything constructive to add, this type of repair would be a new one for me.
 
Have you checked car-part.com for an engine in your area?
They have engines with 140-170k in your area around $1500.00.
Saw other engines for $2000-$4000 with low miles (around 100k).
R&R for that engine should be about 25-30 hours of labor which
should be about $1800-$2300 depending on the labor rate there.
About $3800 but you can sell the truck for the amount you want.
Add rear main seal and new plugs if going that route.
 
Have you checked car-part.com for an engine in your area?
They have engines with 140-170k in your area around $1500.00.
Saw other engines for $2000-$4000 with low miles (around 100k).
R&R for that engine should be about 25-30 hours of labor which
should be about $1800-$2300 depending on the labor rate there.
About $3800 but you can sell the truck for the amount you want.
Add rear main seal and new plugs if going that route.

I agree with this. This is what I did when I blew my TJ engine. These engines last forever, so getting a 100k-200k engine shouldn't be to expensive and is a relatively easy swap that you could do at home.
 

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