Bilstein 6112 In

[Presa Canario]

I don't want to hijack anyones thread, but I figured this would be a goo place to ask my question. I have the 6112's on the way for the front and the Wheeler T13 (1.5") coils for the rear with the Icon 2.0 shocks. Can anyone tell me the best way to increase my odds of getting this right the first time around? I just want the truck to be level front to rear. I have read many threads saying that the lift amounts per "perch notch" are actually more in reality than what Bilstein says they are. I would just really like to avoid getting this all installed and then having to pull it all back out and tear down the front coils again just to move the perch one notch. People are saying that the T13's give anywhere from 1.5" to 1.75" of rear lift. What notch on the 6112's should I take my chances with on the first shot? This is a base model 2016 SR5. I have a 1/4" spacer also coming to install on the driverside front to offset the lean. Is this needed? If not, do use the same perch setting for both sides? My thoughts were to install everything on the rear first and then measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender to give me an idea of what I needed in the front to get it level. Please correct me if there are any errors in my thought process.

Thanks,

 

[TEujunga]

"Level" is in the eye of the beholder. There is no true "level" because the wheel arches are taller in the back than in the front. If you add enough front lift to make the wheel arches even, the truck will have an overall reverse rake.

The consensus seems to be that the 5th Gen looks best with the front raised about 1" more than the rear. If you're going with the T13s (as am I -- just ordered them!), you'll probably want your 6112s at position 6 or 7 to get that 1" front lift difference.

As far as lean, that's easy -- before you start taking things apart, park your truck on a level surface and measure from the center of each front wheel to the top of the wheel arch, using a plumb bob or some other method of making sure you're measuring straight up and down. Whichever side is lower gets a higher circlip position on the 6112 you install on that side. If it's close to level as-is, then set the circlips to the same position on both sides.

Just to add that I went with Toytec Ultimate coilovers for exactly this reason -- to reduce concerns about getting the amount of lift exactly right on the first try, and to make subsequent adjustments easier if I decide I want more lift (or less).

 

[Presa Canario]

"Level" is in the eye of the beholder. There is no true "level" because the wheel arches are taller in the back than in the front. If you add enough front lift to make the wheel arches even, the truck will have an overall reverse rake.

The consensus seems to be that the 5th Gen looks best with the front raised about 1" more than the rear. If you're going with the T13s (as am I -- just ordered them!), you'll probably want your 6112s at position 6 or 7 to get that 1" front lift difference.

As far as lean, that's easy -- before you start taking things apart, park your truck on a level surface and measure from the center of each front wheel to the top of the wheel arch, using a plumb bob or some other method of making sure you're measuring straight up and down. Whichever side is lower gets a higher circlip position on the 6112 you install on that side. If it's close to level as-is, then set the circlips to the same position on both sides.

Thank you for the quick reply. I was hoping not to have to go up to the 7th notch because Ive read that decreases my chances of getting my alignment within spec with factory UCA's. I guess Ill just have to see how it turns out.

 

[mwray8909]

I don't want to hijack anyones thread, but I figured this would be a goo place to ask my question. I have the 6112's on the way for the front and the Wheeler T13 (1.5") coils for the rear with the Icon 2.0 shocks. Can anyone tell me the best way to increase my odds of getting this right the first time around? I just want the truck to be level front to rear. I have read many threads saying that the lift amounts per "perch notch" are actually more in reality than what Bilstein says they are. I would just really like to avoid getting this all installed and then having to pull it all back out and tear down the front coils again just to move the perch one notch. People are saying that the T13's give anywhere from 1.5" to 1.75" of rear lift. What notch on the 6112's should I take my chances with on the first shot? This is a base model 2016 SR5. I have a 1/4" spacer also coming to install on the driverside front to offset the lean. Is this needed? If not, do use the same perch setting for both sides? My thoughts were to install everything on the rear first and then measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender to give me an idea of what I needed in the front to get it level. Please correct me if there are any errors in my thought process.

Thanks,

I will be doing an install with a set tomorrow. And can let you know.

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[Presa Canario]

I will be doing an install with a set tomorrow. And can let you know.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

That would be greatly appreciated. I don't expect our trucks to be exactly the same, but atleast it will give me a good idea on what setting to try first.

 

[TEujunga]

Yup, same here. I'm hoping 2.5" on the Toytecs will give me enough lift to look and function the way I want without exceeding the stock UCAs' capability to get decent caster.

i thought of using 1" Cornfed spacers on the rear but decided the increased travel and load-bearing capability of the T13s was more important. If it ends up a bit butt-high, I guess I can live with it. My budget drew the line at replacing UCAs on a brand new truck.

 

[mwray8909]

That would be greatly appreciated. I don't expect our trucks to be exactly the same, but atleast it will give me a good idea on what setting to try first.

Do you have KDSS?

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[Presa Canario]

Yup, same here. I'm hoping 2.5" on the Toytecs will give me enough lift to look and function the way I want without exceeding the stock UCAs' capability to get decent caster.

i thought of using 1" Cornfed spacers on the rear but decided the increased travel and load-bearing capability of the T13s was more important. If it ends up a bit butt-high, I guess I can live with it. My budget drew the line at replacing UCAs on a brand new truck.

I will sacrifice being a little butt high for now instead of having a bad alignment. My other vehicle is a 2016 F250 diesel on 37's & 22's with a Carli lift. Driving the 4Runner is so much more comfortable to me and I don't want to lose that comfort by it not handling well on the road. I plan to travel in this thing a lot this year taking myself and my dog on some trips. Its the main reason I bought it. I want it to drive as close to stock as possible.

 

[Presa Canario]

Yup, same here. I'm hoping 2.5" on the Toytecs will give me enough lift to look and function the way I want without exceeding the stock UCAs' capability to get decent caster.

i thought of using 1" Cornfed spacers on the rear but decided the increased travel and load-bearing capability of the T13s was more important. If it ends up a bit butt-high, I guess I can live with it. My budget drew the line at replacing UCAs on a brand new truck.

Do you have KDSS?

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No I do not have KDSS on mine. Its just a base model SR5. This is my first 4Runner (and first foreign made vehicle ever) that Ive owned. I wanted to see how well I liked it first and opted to get the cheapest I could find. I wish I had known how much I was going to love it and I would have spent the extra and just got a Trail Premium atleast.

 

[GearJunkie88]

I installed ToyTec Ultimates set at 2" on the front. I installed T13s on the rear. I put an Old Man Emu 10mm trim packer on driver side rear to help with lean. I was concerned about the T13 because I read posts where folks were getting anywhere from 1" to 1.75" lift. I got 1.75". I loaded up the truck with 3 friends and went wheeling to help the coils settle. They settled at 1.5". I think it looks pretty level even though I would have preferred it to be a bit more butt higher than it is.

BTW - the photo was taken before settling.

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[007Tacoma]

No I do not have KDSS on mine. Its just a base model SR5. This is my first 4Runner (and first foreign made vehicle ever) that Ive owned. I wanted to see how well I liked it first and opted to get the cheapest I could find. I wish I had known how much I was going to love it and I would have spent the extra and just got a Trail Premium atleast.

It is still an excellent vehicle. There are a bunch of people on here with SR5s that make me drool.

 

[Sauce839]

I don't want to hijack anyones thread, but I figured this would be a goo place to ask my question. I have the 6112's on the way for the front and the Wheeler T13 (1.5") coils for the rear with the Icon 2.0 shocks. Can anyone tell me the best way to increase my odds of getting this right the first time around? I just want the truck to be level front to rear. I have read many threads saying that the lift amounts per "perch notch" are actually more in reality than what Bilstein says they are. I would just really like to avoid getting this all installed and then having to pull it all back out and tear down the front coils again just to move the perch one notch. People are saying that the T13's give anywhere from 1.5" to 1.75" of rear lift. What notch on the 6112's should I take my chances with on the first shot? This is a base model 2016 SR5. I have a 1/4" spacer also coming to install on the driverside front to offset the lean. Is this needed? If not, do use the same perch setting for both sides? My thoughts were to install everything on the rear first and then measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender to give me an idea of what I needed in the front to get it level. Please correct me if there are any errors in my thought process.

Thanks,

Sounds like you and I are after the same thing. I ran the sway-a-way 1.5" coils in the rear. It's been two weeks and they are sitting 2". I set the front struts at 7/6 based on bilstein instructions. But having a kdss setup it gave me the opposite lean. Follow their instructions and you'll be fine. Remember the gas tank and battery are on the drivers side, so it needs to be bumped up to compensate. Try without the spacer first, and if it's leaning still, then install. Read my previous post though. Hopefully it saves you some headache.

I'm thinking I might actually put the stock springs back in with a spacer cause I hate the tail wagging in the air look I have now.

 

[Presa Canario]

I installed ToyTec Ultimates set at 2" on the front. I installed T13s on the rear. I put an Old Man Emu 10mm trim packer on driver side rear to help with lean. I was concerned about the T13 because I read posts where folks were getting anywhere from 1" to 1.75" lift. I got 1.75". I loaded up the truck with 3 friends and went wheeling to help the coils settle. They settled at 1.5". I think it looks pretty level even though I would have preferred it to be a bit more butt higher than it is.

BTW - the photo was taken before settling.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yours looks pretty good to me bud. I could be happy with that stance front to back. I ordered the OME 10mm trim packer also, but Wheelers was out of them. Ill see if I can locate one somewhere else.

 

[TEujunga]

Sounds like you and I are after the same thing. I ran the sway-a-way 1.5" coils in the rear. It's been two weeks and they are sitting 2". I set the front struts at 7/6 based on blistering instructions. But having a kdss setup it gave me the opposite lean. Follow their instructions and you'll be fine. Remember the gas tank and battery are on the drivers side, so it needs to be bumped up to compensate. Try without the spacer first, and if it's leaning still, then install. Read my previous post though. Hopefully it saves you some headache.

I'm thinking I might actually put the stock springs back in with a spacer cause I hate the tail wagging in the air look I have now.

Autocorrect LOL!

 

[terminus]

How does the old "5 groove" 6112 compare to the new "7 groove" 6112?

Is the min & max setting the same height, but they just added more positions (resolution)? Or did they also change the extremes? According to Bilstein's literature it looks like the max is the same but I can't tell about the rest.

Does anyone know for sure?

 

[TotalAutomotiveLV]

How does the old "5 groove" 6112 compare to the new "7 groove" 6112?

Is the min & max setting the same height, but they just added more positions (resolution)? Or did they also change the extremes? According to Bilstein's literature it looks like the max is the same but I can't tell about the rest.

Does anyone know for sure?

Yes - The Min and Max have not been changed.

The 4Runner presented a few challenges -some have a lean, some do not.

Bilstein added a few more settings to help address those with a lean.

__

 

[jasxn]

So I just installed the 6112's on the front of my TRD offroad (Trail) w/ KDSS.

The installation was fairly straight forward. I put the Sway-a-way 1.5" coils on the back (although its closer to 2":frustyand will install the 5160's once they arrive.

Here is my concern with the specs.

I'm going for the full 2.5" lift on the front, and used the 7/6 setting as shown on the bilstein instructions. But because of the KDSS system, I still have a 1" lean (passenger side is low). Once the rear struts arrive, I'll get the wheel alignment done, and if the system hasn't leveled itself out by then, I'll have the dealership do what they can (ie. bleed the system as recommended by this forum... but expensive if I screw it up). The passenger side may need to come up to the top notch to get help level it out... which means it'll be another couple hours work to pull out the strut, disassemble, move the circlip, assemble and install.

For the assembly of the 6112's, there isn't much room between the spring and strut. The spring compressors I have could not compress the spring enough that I could even start to thread on the top nut. After messing around with it for ~2 hours, I gave up and had a shop assemble everything and I did the install. With the proper tools, it should take 10 minutes to do.

My recommendation... if you have a KDSS equipped vehicle, you may want to look at a threaded coilover (Icon, Toytec, King) just to save the hastle of trying to balance out the system. This had crossed my mind before buying the bilstein set up. I may live to regret it if I can't get this to level out.

Hey [MENTION=127937]Sauce839[/MENTION] what did you end up doing? I'm going to do this setup as well. I can't justify adjustable coilovers right now. i doubt ill put them to their intended use.
i looked at my rig but i dont see any lean from the kdss as it sits. did you just set the settings equally on both sides?
thanks for any feedback you can provide!:hatsoff:

 

[Sauce839]

Hey [MENTION=127937]Sauce839[/MENTION] what did you end up doing? I'm going to do this setup as well. I can't justify adjustable coilovers right now. i doubt ill put them to their intended use.
i looked at my rig but i dont see any lean from the kdss as it sits. did you just set the settings equally on both sides?
thanks for any feedback you can provide!:hatsoff:

What I ended up doing was setting both fronts at the 7th notch. That leveled things out... but, the preload is insane for a 2.5" lift. You won't be able to do this without a really good spring compressor. If you go this route, I would take the stock front struts assemblies off, remove the stock top plate that's required for the bilstein installation, take it into any garage and have them assemble.

I'm currently looking at Dobinson's front springs to replace the ones supplied with the bilstein 6112's. They are a 2" longer and if that means I can run less of a preload, it would be great.

But honestly take a look at the toytec set up, it's comparable price, but you don't get the oversized strut. I really regret the set up I'm running right now. The front looks great with a 2.5" lift, but the ride is just that bad.

As for the rear, I installed the 5160's and they seem great. I'm looking for options on rear springs though. The sway-a-way 1.5" springs resulted in a 2" lift. The 1.5" lift is based on a 3rd row rear seat (or at least that's my thought process on it). Again, Dobinson's will be coming out with a 1" rear spring that I'm eyeing up for the end of the summer. It all depends on how much additional weight the rack adds and if the springs settle. I want the near level look. Although I do notice a much nicer ride overall with a the truck loaded.

As for the KDSS lean, it doesn't exist at stock. But the bilstein instructions says to have the passenger side 1 notch lower. This is only for non-kdss equipped vehicles. The intent of this is to compensate for the extra weight that is on the drivers side (battery and gas tank). If you do this, you only amplify the lean. If you install at equal settings, and there is still a lean, Toytec has a 1/4 spacer that you could install on the passenger side front, or OME has a 10mm spacer for the rear.

Hope that helps some.

 

[jasxn]

What I ended up doing was setting both fronts at the 7th notch. That leveled things out... but, the preload is insane for a 2.5" lift. You won't be able to do this without a really good spring compressor. If you go this route, I would take the stock front struts assemblies off, remove the stock top plate that's required for the bilstein installation, take it into any garage and have them assemble.

I'm currently looking at Dobinson's front springs to replace the ones supplied with the bilstein 6112's. They are a 2" longer and if that means I can run less of a preload, it would be great.

But honestly take a look at the toytec set up, it's comparable price, but you don't get the oversized strut. I really regret the set up I'm running right now. The front looks great with a 2.5" lift, but the ride is just that bad.

As for the rear, I installed the 5160's and they seem great. I'm looking for options on rear springs though. The sway-a-way 1.5" springs resulted in a 2" lift. The 1.5" lift is based on a 3rd row rear seat (or at least that's my thought process on it). Again, Dobinson's will be coming out with a 1" rear spring that I'm eyeing up for the end of the summer. It all depends on how much additional weight the rack adds and if the springs settle. I want the near level look. Although I do notice a much nicer ride overall with a the truck loaded.

As for the KDSS lean, it doesn't exist at stock. But the bilstein instructions says to have the passenger side 1 notch lower. This is only for non-kdss equipped vehicles. The intent of this is to compensate for the extra weight that is on the drivers side (battery and gas tank). If you do this, you only amplify the lean. If you install at equal settings, and there is still a lean, Toytec has a 1/4 spacer that you could install on the passenger side front, or OME has a 10mm spacer for the rear.

Hope that helps some.

Thanks for all that information it helps a great deal!
i guess the KDSS lean offsets the driver/fuel lean lol.

i've been reading up and down this forum between the bilsteins and toytecs, the pros and cons. its until we get icons or kings we'll really be happy lol.
maybe i'll just wait it out for those Dobinsons.

i got a newborn so i'm not going out anytime soon with the truck and if we do an outing it'll probably be really easy trailruns. i just want a small lift for now. the truck looks short and fat sitting stock haha.

 

[TEujunga]

I'm currently looking at Dobinson's front springs to replace the ones supplied with the bilstein 6112's. They are a 2" longer and if that means I can run less of a preload, it would be great.

I'm sure many others have had this discussion in many previous threads, but I feel obliged to point out what I perceive as a misconception about "preload" when I see it.

"Preload" is only the amount of spring compression necessary to assemble the coilover for installation. It does not affect spring rate (assuming a constant-rate spring, which I believe all T4R front springs are). It does not affect ride quality.

A constant-rate spring requires the same amount of force to compress it a given distance whether it is "preloaded" or not.

In this particular case, a longer spring with a lower setting on the 6112s will still have the same amount of "preload" if the spring still needs to be compressed the same distance in order to assemble the coilover. Even if the "preload" is somehow less, if the new spring has the same rate as the shorter spring it is replacing, it will ride exactly the same. The longer spring will add the capability for more travel if the suspension is set up to accommodate it.

The perception of harsher ride quality due to "preload" is usually due to a combination of stiffer shocks and/or springs, and revised suspension geometry with the lift which transmits more vertical forces to the frame than the stock geometry does.

OK, I've got my Nomex suit on, but unless someone comes up with a really compelling argument against what I said, I will stick by it.