Bilstein TRD Pro suspension kit on sale PTR13-35140

Since you have KDSS have you decided about moving the front right strut, spring mount, snap ring from the bottom position to the top position to try to level your 4Runner? I'm not sure what I am going to do.

I'll have to go back and re-read the thread. I cant remember what the process was, but I know it was mentioned about doing something different to compensate for the lean\KDSS.
 
To achieve a true 3” lift with this kit, without the use of a spacer, would a 3x16 coil spring work? Such as this King coil with a 600lb rating? https://www.polyperformance.com/king-16-0x3-00-coil-springs

The spring height change is not a 1:1 ratio that equates to overall lift.
I suspect you'll be 4"+ based on what I've read regarding dobinson's coils. Their TRD 1" lift coils are not 3" x 14", yet they achieve a 1" lift. Stock TRD PRO coils are 3" x 13" whereas the Dbbinson's coils are less than 14" in total length (I don't recall the overall length).

Hope that helps
 
Driver side spacer is unnecessary, already sits higher on the driver side due to the additional preload on the LF strut.

The 1/4" spacer is for the driver side rear, not front. The 6112 takes care of the front driver side/vs passenger side (with the height adjustments). But the rear wouldn't be taken care of.

Or...did I make a mistake? I haven't technically ordered it yet.
 
The 1/4" spacer is for the driver side rear, not front. The 6112 takes care of the front driver side/vs passenger side (with the height adjustments). But the rear wouldn't be taken care of.

Or...did I make a mistake? I haven't technically ordered it yet.

I think you are right, I ordered the OME 10mm trim packer for the rear to deal with the side to side lean, along with T13 rear springs.
https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490...-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html?ref=category:1389058

For the front I am also using the toytec 1/2 spacer lift....Ill report how everything goes and post pics after I install the suspension.
https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490...t-lift-enhancer-kit.html?ref=category:1389058
 
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Just sharing my experience with this suspension since there has been several posts going back and forth about driver side lean.

I installed both front shocks with the clip on the top ring. The difference side to side is negligible. Less than 1/4in in front and back is even. The way I look at it, when are you actually on a perfectly level surface to really notice that it is off. Plus, you can't tell from the inside.

I guess my suggestion is not to worry about the lean for now and add the parts later if you genuinely feel you need to. No reason to spend extra $.
 
Chiming in with what [MENTION=210512]0verland3r[/MENTION] said... Just filled up and measured on level ground. Passenger front sits 1/2-in higher than the driver front. Hardly noticeable. I've also had my suspension in for a month and around 1k miles on them.
 
Can a novice with basic wrenching skills complete the install? bouncing back and forth with the idea to save money.

YouTube it and decide for yourself if you want to tackle it. There’s a couple great diy videos for Tacoma’s on YouTube and the process is identical unless you have KDSS. I will be using the no spring compressor method. I’ve done it before and it’s super simple. YouTube makes it easy.
 
The 1/4" spacer is for the driver side rear, not front. The 6112 takes care of the front driver side/vs passenger side (with the height adjustments). But the rear wouldn't be taken care of.

Or...did I make a mistake? I haven't technically ordered it yet.

Consider this: Cornfed spacers are a designed a little taller on the left rear, which lowers the right front. You don’t just raise the left front and the left rear to fix a lean. All four corners affect each other. I’d install your lift without the spacer and see where you are at.
 
Thats who I ordered mine from. It shipped this morning.

Me too, the ad said they only had 1 though so I hope its not a brick in a box lol

Timing couldn't be better I just took the winter tires off our LE and noticed the front passenger shock and spring were wet with oil, was ordering 5100's and stumbled across this thread by pure chance

so thanks to all involved once again for excellent info
 
The placement is set by a snap ring on the resi body. Unless the groove for the ring is in a different place for the FJ than 4Runner they should sit the same. Actually now I'm really curious to know if there is a difference.

I misinterpreted Saker reply. From pictures, it appears both kits below have the groove for the snap ring in the same place.

Me "Also 0verland3r, I looked at a TRD Pro and your shock reservoirs placement was very close to where the factory placed them." What I was trying to say is I looked at a TRD Pro video and the reservoirs placement was very silimar to your picture. I didn't realize there was a snap ring.

PTR13-89160
This part fits the following vehicles:
Toyota: 4Runner 2010 - 2017
Toyota: FJ Cruiser 2010 - 2014

PTR13-35140
Application:
Toyota: FJ Cruiser 2007 - 2014
 
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KDSS trucks do NOT have that same threaded hole. A 4R installing this kit will need to use a nutsert to accept the reservoir brackets.

I don't want to buy the kit below. All KDSS 4Runners need is (2) M8 [which has the required 1.25 thread pitch] 304 Stainless Steel Rivet Nut Threaded Rivetnut Insert. I usually don't use anti seize compound on threads but will here. Note: Never use a torque wrench when anti seize compound is applied to threads.

https://www.amazon.com/175PCS-Stain...=1524537053&sr=8-13&keywords=rivet+nut+insert

Found these on eBay. 3-4 weeks for delivery, ouch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-40-100X...Nut-Insert-Rivnut-Nutsert-Screw-/151788854026
 
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I'll have to go back and re-read the thread. I cant remember what the process was, but I know it was mentioned about doing something different to compensate for the lean\KDSS.

Thanks for the reply tdo805. I believe some members with 5th generation 4Runners with KDSS moved the right-passenger circlips from the lower position to the top position. Some with KDSS kept the right-passenger circlips in the factory position. The FJ Crusier and 4Runner TRD suspension kits out of the box circlips positions are: left high and right low. Also I know the non KDSS factory struts have different length coils springs. There are two paint dots on each black coil:
right side, white red dots, 8 coils
left side, white green dots, 9 coils

I'm going to verify that on my KDSS this is true.

Just read Bilstein E4-WM5-Y506A00 Mounting Instructions. This document is the Installation Instructions for Bilstein B8 6112 Suspension Kit which is one option when I enter a 2014 4Runner Trail on Bilstein website.
"On 4x4 KDSS models, it is recommended that the driver and passenger side circlips are installed in the same position.
https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y506A00_4.pdf

I've been improperly calling the circlips, snap rings.

I've been calling the front shock a strut when the strut is the coil and shock together in one device. I'm sure you guys knew that and I guess I did too but was being lazy in my posts.
 
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I don't want to buy the kit below. All KDSS 4Runners need is (2) M8 [which has the required 1.25 thread pitch] 304 Stainless Steel Rivet Nut Threaded Rivetnut Insert. I usually don't use anti seize compound on threads but will here. Note: Never use a torque wrench when anti seize compound is applied to threads.

https://www.amazon.com/175PCS-Stain...=1524537053&sr=8-13&keywords=rivet+nut+insert

Found these on eBay. 3-4 weeks for delivery, ouch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-40-100X...Nut-Insert-Rivnut-Nutsert-Screw-/151788854026

Just FYI - that type of nutsert requires a tool to install. A jack nut will work but I have not been able to find any in M8. Just 1/4 - 20.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-59126-4-20-Inch-15-Pack/dp/B00NUFMIIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524541961&sr=8-3&keywords=jack+nut
 
Just FYI - that type of nutsert requires a tool to install. A jack nut will work but I have not been able to find any in M8. Just 1/4 - 20.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-59126-4-20-Inch-15-Pack/dp/B00NUFMIIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524541961&sr=8-3&keywords=jack+nut

Thanks tdo805. Are you saying a tool is required because I am using stainless instead of carbon steel? Now that you bring this up, I never used the method in the video below with stainless steel. I know Rivet Nut makes a hand tool and pneumatic hand tool. I like your solution better because Rivet Nuts strip easier than a standard nut. But I really want to use the hardware that came with the kit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Og-tHIR_0I

I'm going to call a few Rivet Nut manufactures tomorrow and get their input on using stainless steel or carbon steel and using the installation method above.
 
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YouTube it and decide for yourself if you want to tackle it. There’s a couple great diy videos for Tacoma’s on YouTube and the process is identical unless you have KDSS. I will be using the no spring compressor method. I’ve done it before and it’s super simple. YouTube makes it easy.

I've been watching different youtube videos back and forth... would it be easier to setup the strut and coils on new top-hats with coil compressors vs the "no compressor method" since it's a simple bolt swap? Thanks.
 
I've been watching different youtube videos back and forth... would it be easier to setup the strut and coils on new top-hats with coil compressors vs the "no compressor method" since it's a simple bolt swap? Thanks.

I installed it with the no compressor method and it was extremely easy. Having installed multiple variations of suspensions on my FJ, I would say the no compressor method was just as easy, if not more so than installing preassembled. The reason I say that is that the back bolts on the tophats can be a pain to get to sometimes. Where the center is really easy to get at.

The difficulty in the no compressor method is it really needs an extra set of hands to help get everything aligned and jack the LCA at the same time. So if you have help, I would say the no compressor method is the way to go.
 
Is it still possible to install using the no spring compressor method with KDSS? I understand there may be additional steps. Just would prefer not to have to go rent a spring compressor from Pep Boys. Not the end of the world if I have to but wouldn't mind saving the time if possible. I watched the video on Youtube of the guy doing it on a Tacoma and was looking forward to knocking this out in under a couple of hours
 

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