Bilstein TRD Pro suspension kit on sale PTR13-35140

[randomguy]

I've been watching different youtube videos back and forth... would it be easier to setup the strut and coils on new top-hats with coil compressors vs the "no compressor method" since it's a simple bolt swap? Thanks.

Both are relatively easy. I personally would do the no compressor method and save the money. I am going to install new tops so I will be pulling the originals assembled. New tops cost $50 shipped from Amazon. If you’re doing the install yourself there is no reason to spend the extra $50 to $100 having someone else assemble the coil overs sincerely you’re doing all the work anyways.

By the way since your 4Runner is a 2010 I would count on replacing the tops just to be safe.

If Wheelers gets my coils and spacers shipped tomorrow I should be able to install this weekend. Ended up going with the T13 coils to maintain some rake.

 

[plasticsnaks]

My brain hurts after a long night so forgive me if this has been asked here already...


Is anyone running these with the fronts both at the top position, with an OME/whoever rear spacer without leaning to one side?

I’m running adjustable Bilstein 5100s with ome coils with the fronts both set the same and using the below linked trim packer on the drivers side rear for lean compensation. Worked perfect! I don’t see any difference running your front FJ kit 6112s with the clip on the higher setting on both sides and using the same trim packer on the drivers side rear for lean compensation. Even if you upgrade your rear coils, use the trim packer for lean compensation.


https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490...for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html

 

[Nklxwcyz]

Is it still possible to install using the no spring compressor method with KDSS?

Yes, I installed this kit on a 2016 Trail with KDSS using the no spring compressor method. You can find decent instructional videos on YouTube.

If you’re replacing the shocks but leaving the stock rear springs, you won’t need to touch the rear KDSS.

To install the coilovers, you’ll need to disconnect the front KDSS sway bar.

First, place a jack or other support under the KDSS piston. Then disconnect the front KDSS sway bar at both ends. Slowly lower the KDSS piston and watch the sway bar rotate forward and away from the LCAs. Once you have enough clearance, follow the no spring compressor method to install the coilovers. Some recommend maintaining support under the KDSS piston, others report no issues with allowing the piston to rest at full extension for the relatively short time it takes to swap the coilovers. FWIW, I chose to support the KDSS piston throughout the install.

Once you’ve swapped in the new coilovers, you’re ready to reconnect the front sway bar. I’d suggest enlisting the help of a friend as an extra pair of hands makes it much easier. Start by compressing the KDSS piston until the sway bar rotates back into position (be ready to fight the KDSS piston a bit as it has a tendency to push the jack toward the front of the truck). I found it easier to line up the driver side first; you can use tie-down straps or adjustable clamps to help align the sway bar and LCA tabs. Once the driver side is aligned, carefully thread the bolts, leaving about 1/8-1/4” play. Take your time on this and be careful not to cross thread the bolts. Now align and bolt the passenger side. Then go back and tighten driver side to spec.

If you need more details, do a quick search for KDSS threads on this forum. There are some great write-ups on disconnecting/reconnecting KDSS complete with pics.

Good luck and have fun. [emoji16]

 

[Stevee]

First off I want to thank the OP who started this thread and all that have contributed.

Installed my kit yesterday 2015 TEP with KDSS

Installed front struts with both circlips on top groove which resulted in LF and RF within half inch of each other. Very glad I did not end up with the dreaded lean.

Regarding rear suspension reservoir mounting, bought a rivnut kit from Harbor Freight for $20 and installed the largest rivnut that comes with the kit in the appropriate hole on each side. I think rivet net size was 1/4 inch.

One thing I did not realize until I changed the rear shocks is that they are side specific and had to do the whole job all over again.

hope this helps

Stevee

 

[i2ichal2d]

First off I want to thank the OP who started this thread and all that have contributed.

Installed my kit yesterday 2015 TEP with KDSS

Installed front struts with both circlips on top groove which resulted in LF and RF within half inch of each other. Very glad I did not end up with the dreaded lean.

Regarding rear suspension reservoir mounting, bought a rivnut kit from Harbor Freight for $20 and installed the largest rivnut that comes with the kit in the appropriate hole on each side. I think rivet net size was 1/4 inch.

One thing I did not realize until I changed the rear shocks is that they are side specific and had to do the whole job all over again.

hope this helps

Stevee

More feedback from other KDSS owners please! Are we getting less lean with passenger side on top clip? I was planning to have passenger side on top clip, driver on lower clip with dobinsons kdss rear springs. But Stevee seems to be okay with both fronts on same clip

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[Ocean Hitchhiker]

Finally got my install all situated. However, still have some space between the top hat and the strut nut. Has anyone else experienced this? Did you put a pathing bushing in there?

My thought it that this front strut is a bit longer than the standard T4R TRD Pro strut to along with the shock that’s 1” longer as well.


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[Nklxwcyz]

More feedback from other KDSS owners please! Are we getting less lean with passenger side on top clip?

2016 Trail KDSS. I left the clips in their factory position.

One week after installation, driver front was 5/16” higher than passenger front; this represents an increase of 1/4” over stock. Driver rear remained 1/8” higher than passenger.

Add a seated driver to the equation and the ~quarter-inch difference between driver and passenger front might even out (I haven’t tested this theory).

Detailed before / after measurements (center of hub to fender):

Driver Front — 19 1/2” to 20 9/16” = +1 1/16”

Passenger Front — 19 3/8” to 20 1/4” = + 7/8”

Driver Rear — 21 5/8” to 21 3/4” = + 1/8”

Passenger Rear — 21 1/2” to 21 5/8” = + 1/8”

 

[Stevee]

2015 TEP with KDSS

Just remeasured today and front suspension height is within 1/8 inch with both clips on the top groove.

I also went into this with the understanding that there may be some variation between KDSS trucks. Got lucky I guess.

One of the benefits that I have noticed as others have already mentioned, is that this set up almost eliminates the nose dive.

I previously had Bilstien 5100's all around which diminished the nose dive but did not eliminate it to this extent.

Very pleased with this set-up.

 

[TodiN]

I’m running adjustable Bilstein 5100s with ome coils with the fronts both set the same and using the below linked trim packer on the drivers side rear for lean compensation. Worked perfect! I don’t see any difference running your front FJ kit 6112s with the clip on the higher setting on both sides and using the same trim packer on the drivers side rear for lean compensation. Even if you upgrade your rear coils, use the trim packer for lean compensation.


https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490...for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html

Another question: to maintain the rake, can I use 2 of these on the driver’s side and 1 on the passenger’s side?

 

[CowboyTaco]

TRD kit Ordered from Olathe last week, gets delivered tomorrow.

Also just got off the phone with Kelly at Wheelers, said they just got T13 springs back in stock yesterday. Ordered a set of those as well.

I’ve got the beer, anyone near Dallas wanna have an install day soon?

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What did you end up doing? I know I'm about a month late to the party, but I'm in Fort Worth. I'll be happy to help with the install if you haven't already gotten it done.

EDIT: Nevermind. Should have kept reading. I see you got it done. My offer stands though to anyone in DFW.

 

[Akkording]

Another question: to maintain the rake, can I use 2 of these on the driver’s side and 1 on the passenger’s side?

OME does not recommend stacking trim packs

 

[CowboyTaco]

Just thought that I would reply to this post since my results seems to be a little different than others. I ended up with 1 1/2" lift in front (was 2" after install but has settled to 1 1/2 ) The only difference that I could come up with is that I used Dobinsons top strut mount, but after talking with Mike (great guy to deal with) he feels that their top mounts should not have made a difference. I now have 1/2" higher in the RR and 3/4" higher in the LR vs fronts and the RF and LF are the same. Everything else is stock, no new control arms. Glad I didn't add a spacer to the LR. Alignment is good with 3 on the caster. Also this week added Nitto RG in 265/70/17 C rated.
Can't say enough good things about this new setup. The ride is great now. Thanks to the OP and all who have shared to this post.
Additional info:
suspension - took me 6 hrs. to install by myself (and I am an old man over 60) nothing hard (especially if you have read through all of these posts) just the front coils are heavy trying to get into place and lined up if working by yourself. Main thing is reduced amount of nose dive.
Tires - These things are quiet but heavy (55 lbs). I did a before and after DB check using a DB app on my phone and it confirmed my impression...these were quieter than my Dunlops (30K on those tires). Only by a couple of DBs but I am very pleased. Don't know about gas mileage drop at this point, but I don't care. Hope to get out in the sand this weekend to give them a test on the beach.
I have a 2015 Trail non KDSS with 30K miles on it.

Did you measure hub to fender or ground to fender?

 

[4runr4eva]

What did you end up doing? I know I'm about a month late to the party, but I'm in Fort Worth. I'll be happy to help with the install if you haven't already gotten it done.

EDIT: Nevermind. Should have kept reading. I see you got it done. My offer stands though to anyone in DFW.

You are a good man, CowboyTaco. I would almost drive from Massachusetts for that offer. Just the fact you are offering, you are a winner in my book! :hatsoff:

 

[CowboyTaco]

You are a good man, CowboyTaco. I would almost drive from Massachusetts for that offer. Just the fact you are offering, you are a winner in my book! :hatsoff:

[MENTION=99406]yotantexas[/MENTION] helped me install my first lift (Ironman) on my Tacoma several years ago. Since then, I've swapped that suspension for the Toytec Boss. I also helped a buddy swap his spacer lift for a "real" lift.

I guess it's sort of a "pay it forward" kind of thing. YotaNTexas helped me, so why shouldn't I help someone else? If you want to make the drive, come on down!

 

[CowboyTaco]

One other thing to mention. I ordered the kit from Olathe last Thursday and it was delivered on Saturday. no VIN needed.

I bought the kit to replace the factory suspension on my wife's 14 TEP w/o KDSS. Looks like I've got the threaded hole for the resi mount. She currently has 70k, and I'm in no rush to get these installed. Ideally, I'll swap them out around 100k, but I don't think I want to wait that long.

 

[1000MPH]

Finally got my install all situated. However, still have some space between the top hat and the strut nut. Has anyone else experienced this? Did you put a pathing bushing in there?

My thought it that this front strut is a bit longer than the standard T4R TRD Pro strut to along with the shock that’s 1” longer as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On a 5100 install if you remove the plastic shock covers the steel spacer needs to be pushed out and reused. Not sure with this setup.

 

[Ocean Hitchhiker]

On a 5100 install if you remove the plastic shock covers the steel spacer needs to be pushed out and reused. Not sure with this setup.

All the washers/retainers are there properly. It just seems like the shock is actually bigger than the space so the nut sits a bit higher than the top hat. Wanted to see if others put extra bushings or anything just to fill the gap.


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[Ocean Hitchhiker]

One other thing to mention. I ordered the kit from Olathe last Thursday and it was delivered on Saturday. no VIN needed.

I bought the kit to replace the factory suspension on my wife's 14 TEP w/o KDSS. Looks like I've got the threaded hole for the resi mount. She currently has 70k, and I'm in no rush to get these installed. Ideally, I'll swap them out around 100k, but I don't think I want to wait that long.

So I ordered my kit from Olathe and had some parts missing. They said they ordered a new kit to get a full inventory of what parts I should have received and then sent me a list and pictures. I bet you got that kit they ordered, and no VIN because it was already in stock.


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[TodiN]

What did you end up doing? I know I'm about a month late to the party, but I'm in Fort Worth. I'll be happy to help with the install if you haven't already gotten it done.

Anybody in DMV (DC-MD-VA) area to help with the install? I'll bring beer or your beverage choice :cheers:

 

[NorCal TRD OR]

So I ordered my kit from Olathe and had some parts missing. They said they ordered a new kit to get a full inventory of what parts I should have received and then sent me a list and pictures. I bet you got that kit they ordered, and no VIN because it was already in stock.


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Can you post the list and pictures so folks can verify that they received all the parts?