Bilstein TRD Pro suspension kit on sale PTR13-35140

[tdo805]

Knocked out the rear shocks last night. I used a rubber expansion nut for the top hole on the resi mount and it worked out well. I had to enlarge the hole in the frame slightly but no big deal. Got the alignment done this morning and it leveled out to exactly 36" ground to front fender on both sides.

 

[Mr.Franko]

Here's after the install. Added a 1" toyotech spacer in the front, and 1.5 inch Dobinsons springs in the rear.

[MENTION=177881]rihavens[/MENTION] Which toytec spacer did you go with, bottom or top spacer?

 

[rihavens]

[MENTION=177881]rihavens[/MENTION] Which toytec spacer did you go with, bottom or top spacer?

Top. I guess I got a 2" not a 1".

That's what I get for buying online. Oh well. I like the lift.

Front 2" Lift Spacers

 

[randomguy]

Installed my fronts today using the no spring compressor method. Seems like there is a lot of space at the top of the shock. Anyone else experience this? Top pic is driver bottom is passenger, much more space on driver side.

Also, I added the Toytec 1” spacer and seems like I’m hitting my sway bar. I’ll prob order the relocation mounts, but wanted to see if anyone else has this issue too?

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I got my kit today. You definitely need the dust boot as it contains a spacer with a flange on it. Without it you can’t assemble these. Pics for reference.

No boot. Threads end well before the washer, meaning you won’t get any compression on the bushing.

Boot installed. Just enough threads showing to start the nut and plenty of thread to get it tight.

 

[CowboyTaco]

I would join in the install fun if you made it down here. I think I have done enough front suspensions on these Toyota that I have got it down to about 8 minutes to remove the front coil. That is timed from the truck being on the ground.

Didn't someone upload to YouTube the last time you did one?

 

[tph4m]

I got my kit today. You definitely need the dust boot as it contains a spacer with a flange on it. Without it you can’t assemble these. Pics for reference.

No boot. Threads end well before the washer, meaning you won’t get any compression on the bushing.

Boot installed. Just enough threads showing to start the nut and plenty of thread to get it tight.

The kit came with 2 retainers (metal washers). One was bigger and flatter than the other. From your pics, it looks like you used the bigger one on the top of your shock---is this right? I couldnt find any instructions saying which goes where..

 

[4runr4eva]

I would join in the install fun if you made it down here. I think I have done enough front suspensions on these Toyota that I have got it down to about 8 minutes to remove the front coil. That is timed from the truck being on the ground.

I am getting quotes at $200 per corner. Man, you guys are great. I would even supply beer and cook meats of various animals for the occasion. :hail:

 

[Jbatman]

Bit the bullet and ordered the kit yesterday- now to figure out whether to wait for the dobby 2” TRD coils or do the wheeler daystar 1.25” isolator or toytec 1” coil perch spacer


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[biggs13]

Bit the bullet and ordered the kit yesterday- now to figure out whether to wait for the dobby 2” TRD coils or do the wheeler daystar 1.25” isolator or toytec 1” coil perch spacer


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Don’t order the dobinson Springs. They won’t work with the TRD FJ Pro kit. It was mentioned early in the thread but the coil lengths are different sizes.


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[GogDog]

Don’t order the dobinson Springs. They won’t work with the TRD FJ Pro kit. It was mentioned early in the thread but the coil lengths are different sizes.


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I believe the currently available 1" TRD Pro dobinson spring won't work..since its the same length as what is currently on the FJ Pro kit (since the FJ pro kit coil is 1" longer than the 4nr Pro kit).

But he said he will either wait for the 2" dobinson trd pro coil (so it really would provide 1 more inch of height) or do a coil perch. I'm in the same boat.

What I don't get....is the advantages/disadvantages of a doing a 1" toytec coil perch spacer.....vs what I'm buying, a toytec TOP1-T 1/2" top plate spacer (Front Top Plate Spacer Kit ).

Are they..essentially the same? My current understanding is that the top plate spacer is better because it doesn't preload the spring, but its possible if the top plate spacer is too large it hits the top of the wheel well or something? I'm no expert for sure...a bit confused here.

 

[Jbatman]

I believe the currently available 1" TRD Pro dobinson spring won't work..since its the same length as what is currently on the FJ Pro kit (since the FJ pro kit coil is 1" longer than the 4nr Pro kit).

But he said he will either wait for the 2" dobinson trd pro coil (so it really would provide 1 more inch of height) or do a coil perch. I'm in the same boat.

What I don't get....is the advantages/disadvantages of a doing a 1" toytec coil perch spacer.....vs what I'm buying, a toytec TOP1-T 1/2" top plate spacer (Front Top Plate Spacer Kit ).

Are they..essentially the same? My current understanding is that the top plate spacer is better because it doesn't preload the spring, but its possible if the top plate spacer is too large it hits the top of the wheel well or something? I'm no expert for sure...a bit confused here.

I'm with you on the confusion there. I understood it as adding the coil perch spacer was no different than moving the perch up a few notches if these had the clip rings similar to the regular 6112's? I could be completely off on that logic though :noidea:

 

[TodiN]

No expert here either and maybe this question has been asked (can't find it though...).
I want to keep the front rake. What do I have to do in the back: spacers (what kind), new springs (what kind)?
Help please ...

 

[randomguy]

I believe the currently available 1" TRD Pro dobinson spring won't work..since its the same length as what is currently on the FJ Pro kit (since the FJ pro kit coil is 1" longer than the 4nr Pro kit).

But he said he will either wait for the 2" dobinson trd pro coil (so it really would provide 1 more inch of height) or do a coil perch. I'm in the same boat.

What I don't get....is the advantages/disadvantages of a doing a 1" toytec coil perch spacer.....vs what I'm buying, a toytec TOP1-T 1/2" top plate spacer (Front Top Plate Spacer Kit ).

Are they..essentially the same? My current understanding is that the top plate spacer is better because it doesn't preload the spring, but its possible if the top plate spacer is too large it hits the top of the wheel well or something? I'm no expert for sure...a bit confused here.

Preloading the coil with a perch or with a Wheelers coil isolator does not move the shock and you should hit the bump stops before bottoming out the shock. Bottoming out shocks is how things break. The downside of preloading is too much can make it ride like a lumber wagon. 1.5” is not extreme.

Top plate spacer moves the shock down. If you don’t move the bump stops as well you run the risk of bottoming the shock out before hitting the bump stops. It probably won’t happen on street driving but why chance it to save a couple bucks?

One option for a top plate is to run some Wheelers super bumps and install spacers. You’ll need to cycle the suspension and ensure your bottoming the super bumps out before the shock. But then are you saving any money?

 

[GogDog]

Top plate spacer moves the shock down. If you don’t move the bump stops as well you run the risk of bottoming the shock out before hitting the bump stops. It probably won’t happen on street driving but why chance it to save a couple bucks?

Thanks for the explanation...I guess I'm still not sure what is "best". I do plan on going off road with the setup. I thought I read somewhere that a small 1/2" top plate spacer would be nothing to worry about ...its the larger ones that provide 2-3" of lift that could be a problem. Maybe I'm wrong...not sure.

 

[wondersloth]

Just finished my install on the front. 2017 TRD off road premium with KDSS. Took about two hours start to finish using the no compressor method. The only thing that was a pain in the ass was the KDSS. You have to support the piston (i wrapped a motorcycle tie down around it and tighten the ^&#$% out of it) I also couldn't get the sway bar reconnected while the truck was on jack stands. Once I let it sit on it's own weight I was able to get the passenger side back in.

I used the upper circlip position on both sides and after driving it for 15 minutes hitting every bump I could find, it leveled out right at 36 1/4 ground to fender on both sides.

On a side note, be careful using an impact on the lugnuts. I broke one of the wheel studs (most likely over torqued, I had the impact set at the lowest setting which I thought was 75 ft/lbs but it turns out it's 100). Now I'm not sure if I can trust the rest of them. Probably going to replace all 12 and just use my torque wrench to put them on. :crybaby:

Just to confirm, the "circlip position" you changed the the coilover collar on the front passenger side strut to be the same as the driver side, where it's on the higher position. Was the passenger side on the lower setting?

Reason I ask, is that I just installed a TRD Pro suspension on my 2018 Off-Road with KDSS and I am getting about an 1" lean higher on the Drivers over the Passenger side. I think my only option at this point is to get a trim pack or adjust that collar to have it sit higher on the passenger side front coilover.

 

[tdo805]

Just to confirm, the "circlip position" you changed the the coilover collar on the front passenger side strut to be the same as the driver side, where it's on the higher position. Was the passenger side on the lower setting?

Reason I ask, is that I just installed a TRD Pro suspension on my 2018 Off-Road with KDSS and I am getting about an 1" lean higher on the Drivers over the Passenger side. I think my only option at this point is to get a trim pack or adjust that collar to have it sit higher on the passenger side front coilover.

That is correct. It was in the higher position already on the drivers side. I moved the passenger side up to match it based on a few other posts in this thread. As of right now, the front fender wells are exactly even.

 

[wondersloth]

That is correct. It was in the higher position already on the drivers side. I moved the passenger side up to match it based on a few other posts in this thread. As of right now, the front fender wells are exactly even.

I think I know my project next weekend. Did you pull out the whole coilover to do this? I imagine you would have to.


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[randomguy]

Got my fronts in. Using the Wheelers Daystar isolator I’m sitting right at 2” to 2.25” front lift. Front is a touch taller than the stock rear and looks a little to bro for my tastes. Good thing I have a set of T13’s to install in the rear on Sunday.

Floor jack spring compressor at work. Very easy.

Wheelers Daystar isolator compared to the stock KYB isolator.

 

[GogDog]

Sorry..I'm having trouble finding the 1" toytec coil perch....or the wheelers daystar isolator. Could someone provide a url?

 

[tdo805]

I think I know my project next weekend. Did you pull out the whole coilover to do this? I imagine you would have to.


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I did it when I installed them. You might be able to do it by unbolting the top and sliding it out and then lifting the spring enough to slide the circlip up. You'll still need to drop the LCA though so at that point you're only like one bolt away from pulling it out anyway.