Black798's 98 limited build thread

[Unner]

Rear mounts came out really good! Looks like you did't french them into the frame?

And how are the compression adjusters? Can you really tell a difference?

I might be in touch about buying that bracket design from you, or buying a set of brackets off you if you would be willing to make them and ship them. I need to find someone around here I trust to weld on my rig... I also need to learn to weld myself someday.

 

[Black798]

Rear mounts came out really good! Looks like you did't french them into the frame?

And how are the compression adjusters? Can you really tell a difference?

I might be in touch about buying that bracket design from you, or buying a set of brackets off you if you would be willing to make them and ship them. I need to find someone around here I trust to weld on my rig... I also need to learn to weld myself someday.

I did opt to not french into the frame because while it would have increased my clearance between the shock body and frame it wouldn't have solved my contact issue with the tire so I didn't see the need to do so. I don't mind running the spacers and even though I am confident in my welds I know for certain I don't have a potential weak point in the frame this way. If for some reason I end up running into contact issues with the frame It wouldn't be hard to notch the frame with the mount in place using a cut off wheel and a little persuasion with a hammer and then plating it back together. I will be doing some flex testing this weekend to make sure this won't be an issue but I'm confident so far that it won't be. I'll post up some pictures and result later this week.

As far as the compression adjusters go, I can feel a pretty big difference between zero and 24 clicks. It doesn't make the ride harsher like I thought it would, just much more controlled and it makes the truck settle out extremely fast vs moderately fast; but I think they were worth the extra 50$. I'm currently running them at 5 clicks but I can see when I'm loaded down with gear I will be turning them up.

If you decide to have me weld up a set and send them out to you I could totally do that but I'd need to get some quotes on steel and plasma cutting before I could throw out a number for that, I would guess it would be in the 150 to 200 range though for essentially a ready to weld on mount kit.

Cost for just the plans would be 50$

 

[Unner]

I did opt to not french into the frame because while it would have increased my clearance between the shock body and frame it wouldn't have solved my contact issue with the tire so I didn't see the need to do so. I don't mind running the spacers and even though I am confident in my welds I know for certain I don't have a potential weak point in the frame this way. If for some reason I end up running into contact issues with the frame It wouldn't be hard to notch the frame with the mount in place using a cut off wheel and a little persuasion with a hammer and then plating it back together. I will be doing some flex testing this weekend to make sure this won't be an issue but I'm confident so far that it won't be. I'll post up some pictures and result later this week.

As far as the compression adjusters go, I can feel a pretty big difference between zero and 24 clicks. It doesn't make the ride harsher like I thought it would, just much more controlled and it makes the truck settle out extremely fast vs moderately fast; but I think they were worth the extra 50$. I'm currently running them at 5 clicks but I can see when I'm loaded down with gear I will be turning them up.

If you decide to have me weld up a set and send them out to you I could totally do that but I'd need to get some quotes on steel and plasma cutting before I could throw out a number for that, I would guess it would be in the 150 to 200 range though for essentially a ready to weld on mount kit.

Cost for just the plans would be 50$

I'll be looking forward to your testing results.

That's interesting to hear about the compression adjusters. I didn't realize the Kings had 24 settings, I figured they had 5 or so like most brands do. The extra $100 for the set really isn't bad if you compare it to the total price of the project.

Awesome! I'd probably just have you weld up a set and send them my way, this way it's one less step I have to do in installation. It might not be for a while though, I've got a lot going on right now. I bet you could sell a few of those mounts here on the forum if you were looking to make a little cash on the side.

What week are you going to Moab? I'd meet up with you out there if our schedules line up, but I think the week I'm planning to go is later than when you're going.

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] I had been told that the Kings had more clicks than Icon but I didn't realize it was over double, I'm not sure how many Fox or ADS has though.

I'm currently working on putting together a full kit for this setup but Ill need to make a few revisions to the lower mount system so that its more refined and Ill need to gauge interest but I'm sure that there are quite a few people that would be interested since they'll work with king, fox, or ADS shocks.

I'm going to Moab the week of March 10th, the rough plan is to drive down the 10th and start heading back the 15th.

 

[Unner]

[MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] I had been told that the Kings had more clicks than Icon but I didn't realize it was over double, I'm not sure how many Fox or ADS has though.

I'm currently working on putting together a full kit for this setup but Ill need to make a few revisions to the lower mount system so that its more refined and Ill need to gauge interest but I'm sure that there are quite a few people that would be interested since they'll work with king, fox, or ADS shocks.

I'm going to Moab the week of March 10th, the rough plan is to drive down the 10th and start heading back the 15th.

Those mounts certainly open up your options for rear shocks. I'd probably go with Kings like yours unless I got a really good deal on ADS or Fox.

One thing I forgot I wanted to ask, how are the reservoirs mounted to the frame?

I think [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] is looking to outboard his rear shocks. He might be interested in your setup.

That's the week I went last year and it was perfect, unfortunately this year it'll be the last week of March for me so we won't cross paths. I'm still debating if I want to go to Moab, or if I want to go somewhere else.

 

[Black798]

Those mounts certainly open up your options for rear shocks. I'd probably go with Kings like yours unless I got a really good deal on ADS or Fox.

One thing I forgot I wanted to ask, how are the reservoirs mounted to the frame?

I think [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] is looking to outboard his rear shocks. He might be interested in your setup.

That's the week I went last year and it was perfect, unfortunately, this year it'll be the last week of March for me so we won't cross paths. I'm still debating if I want to go to Moab, or if I want to go somewhere else.

I used a reservoir mount kit from trail gear to mount them to the frame. They are just a saddle with a hose clamp but they hold it pretty solid.

That sucks the dates don't line up. It just works for me because that's when my spring break is. It seems to be the case that most others dates for that trip don't line up either. I need to find another rig soon...

Link to the mounts

 

[Black798]

I did some testing with the rear shocks today and am confident I won't be having any issues with them binding up or contacting anything. I wasn't able to reach full flex because everything is so Icy but I was within an inch or so.

The clearance between the tire and shock with the spacers on, plenty of room.
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Clearance between frame and shock body under full articulation, it's about a 1/8th-inch clearance
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I also finished the gear break in and changed out the fluid to Royal Purple 75w-140 in the diffs.

My only concern with these shocks is they have been on for a week and I can already see some very light pitting in the shafts and some surface rust so I'm considering adding a set of rubber boots or something to protect the shaft.
[MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] or [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION], were you having any issues like this when you did your rear shock setup? Or is it something I don't really need to be concerned with.

 

[AssBurns]

I haven’t had any issues with rust or pitting on the shafts yet, but it’s super dry out here so nothing really rusts out here.

The mounts and shocks look great BTW! You are really gonna enjoy those!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tkearns23]

Love the headlights!

 

[Black798]

I haven’t had any issues with rust or pitting on the shafts yet, but it’s super dry out here so nothing really rusts out here.

The mounts and shocks look great BTW! You are really gonna enjoy those!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'm loving them so far, it's like driving a totally different truck with the increase in stability. I can blow over stuff at 40 mph that before I struggled to do 20. I didn't gain much if any articulation but what I have is more than adequate for what I do and If I decide I need more it wouldn't take much tweaking with the lower mount to gain some.

Love the headlights!

Thanks, they're one of my favorite mods that I have done

 

[4-Ripcord]

Mounts turned out great!

I would highly recommend a shock boot on there for that pittig. King doesn't really have one for those shocks, so some kind of universal boot should do the trick.

 

[Black798]

Mounts turned out great!

I would highly recommend a shock boot on there for that pitting. King doesn't really have one for those shocks, so some kind of universal boot should do the trick.

Thanks! it was a lot of work but totally worth it.

I just ordered a set of procomp shock boots. Sucks because I really don't like the look of them but if it makes the seals on the shocks last longer it will be worth it. Those shafts aren't too cheap from what I can see

 

[Black798]

Ray 10s Installed

I got the new rims installed yesterday. I literally can't stop looking at them they are awesome. And I was able to remove the wheel spacers and still clear the shocks. All the clearances look like they're begging to have 33s stuffed in there... that will probably happen later this year

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Ill take some better pictures hopefully in the coming days. Im going to wait until the roads dry up a bit so I can wash the truck. And I have to pull the rear diff again due to some issues that came up with the ARB. Hoping its something simple but it's probably going back to ECGS to be gone through. I have to say their customer service is second to none. They have been an absolute pleasure to work with.

 

[AssBurns]

What’s up with your rear diff?! Good thing you went through ECGS. Their customer service is top notch for sure!

 

[Black798]

What’s up with your rear diff?! Good thing you went through ECGS. Their customer service is top notch for sure!

The ARB has been shooting a bunch of oil out of the solenoid release valve which isn't that big of a deal. But its also leaking internally in the axle housing and not engaging completely sometimes. They're hoping it was installer error on my end and that I somehow messed up the seal housing or copper line but I find that highly unlikely since I had the whole housing out which made install really easy. I also don't think it was my fault because it isn't a consistent leak, it only leaks at certain points in the rotation of the tire AFTER the locking collar has engaged.

Well see but I think something is messed up with the piston inside the ARB

 

[AssBurns]

Damn. That’s a bummer that it’s not working right. That’s kinda why I don’t want to get an ARB up front. They are great lockers when they work but there are so many parts that can fail with air lockers. I had heard so many issues with the air lockers that it makes me not want to deal with them. I wish there was a good e-locker option for the front but the only option is the Harrop which is way more expensive than ARB.

 

[Black798]

The new two-piece ARBs really don't have that many components, just the seal housing piston, and locking ring, really no more than the Toyota e lockers. I've seen a lot of ARB lockers that have been trouble free for 20+ years with heavy use. Personally, I prefer the air locker over the Toyota e locker. After talking with Steve at ECGS he told me that this was one of the first ones he'd seen have any issues and was pretty surprised.

For the front Ill eventually put an ARB in there just for the sake of stronger spider gears because the stock ones are just too easy to break.

 

[AssBurns]

Yeah the locker itself is pretty simple but the whole system with air lines, compressors, solenoids, copper lines, seals, etc are all points of possible failures. With an e-locker, it’s much less to go wrong. I’ve seen ARB’s last years with no issues and I’ve also seen people constantly chasing down leaky air lines, seals, oil clogged solenoids. They are no doubt stronger and when set up properly, they can last forever. I’ve always been torn which way to go. Pro’s and Con’s to both.

 

[Black798]

Definitely. I'm not a fan of the e locker due to the exposed motor and I've seen a lot of issues with those. I don't know much about the Harrop type other than they are way to expensive for me.

Other than the leak in the diff, I don't have any issues. I made sure to cover the airline in rubber hose anywhere it would chafe or get hot and the compressor holds air for days so after I get this problem tracked down I should be good to go.

 

[JBurt]

I've never heard of Harrop but just from quickly looking it looks like their front e locker is $1400.

An ARB is 940 + 275 for the compressor which brings the total up to $1215. I know it's still about $200 cheaper, but that's not a huge price difference (~13%)

I'm definitely doing more research on the Harrop's. My cousin runs eatons on his cherokee and really likes it, but to my knowledge they don't make a 7.5" toyota option.

I really like the wheels by the way. They look great.