Well time for an update. I finally got started on installing the turbo stuff a few weeks back and have made quite a bit of headway. I decided to just pull the entire motor out because I wanted to give it a really thorough cleaning and with the amount of disassembly I was going to have to do it just made more sense to do it on a stand.
Had a couple buddies over to help and plucked it out with the skid loader, took 8 hours start to finish.
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Yanked the stock manifolds off and luckily didnt snap a single stud in the block. The crossover pipe was another story, ended up breaking almost all of those.
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Next up pulled the valve covers off and went about adjusting the valves. Found 3 valves that were out of spec and moved the exhaust valves to the far loose end of the spec to make sure I wont have any burning issues with the added heat of the turbo. I got lucky and between 5 shims I grabbed at the junkyard and what was in the motor I didnt have to order any new ones.
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After I had the timing belt and all the internal stuff dealt with on the motor I went about mocking up the manifolds so I could hang the turbo to figure out oil lines. AAAnnnddd thats when this happened. No matter how I oriented the crossover this was as good as it would line up on one side with the other side clamped.
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I went back and forth with CX racing and was told to fill the gap with silicone and clamp it and after explaining that it wouldn't work because of obvious reasons was told "fix it your damn self." Nice customer service right? I also was not a fan of the tiny very stiff flex pipe they use so I got a larger more flexible section and rebuilt the whole damn thing to get it fitting up right.
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Dropped the pan to weld in the return bung and put together the return line itself with all -10an fittings. Not the most ideal setup but its about all I knew I could make fit with the placement of other things in the engine bay.
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To help control the heat some I cerakoted the outside of all the tubes and then used eastwoods internal header coating on the inside. Little bit of copper RTV on the vbands and we can assemble this bish
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Since I had the motor out and it was easy I also decided to through bolt the motor mounts so that they cant ever crack and split in half, this should allow them to compress like normal so no added vibration but act almost like a solid mount in tension. I plug welded the bolts in so I didnt have to modify the perches in the truck
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I also welded a mount onto the motor mount bracket on the motor in order to add a GM knock sensor that will interface with my piggyback. This will both allow me to monitor knock for tuning and delete the stock sensors if need be. Forgot pictures of that.
And after all that was buttoned up we dropped the motor back in.
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Obviously a start up video was warranted
But now the real work starts haha. This is just the basic list I know off the top of my head
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