Hey man, my hatch is due here this week. Would you have any pics of this mounting method? I checked out the Yotatech guy and his pics aren't that great.
Sweet! I'm happy to hear that you're this close to finally gettin' it.
Oh this is gooooona be long but bear with me.
You might wanna print this out!
I don't have a picture of the top mount and how it's done per se..and I know it's a cliche' but it's really simple to tell you the truth.
Right now it's even harder to take pics because of the roll bar in the way.
You'll fully understand the concept of the reinforcement for both the upper and lower hinges once you started
drilling thru the body panel...Haha easy said than done I guess..lol!
First is ofcourse get the surf hatch installed, because you wanna be able to lock the swing-away
tire carrier in order to align the hinges properly. By locking the latching mechanism, you'll have the freedom to position the
hinges without all the weight of the carrier bearing on you.
In a nutshell:
The bottom hinge would pretty much just wrap around the panel beneath the tail light, the contacting surface should let you determine it's exact location. Check the level to make sure it's horizontally aligned. To help you better, I have mine mounted 3/16" just below the tail light. The holes will pretty much end up being right on the body line just before the panel curves inward and down.
There are 2 bolt holes for the lower hinge, and the one coming from the rear is done with the carrier open.
For this I suggest drilling the hole for the lower side and upper hinge and temporarily insert your 7/16" hex head bolts.
The upper hinge has a flat surface and it's just a matter of flushing it with the body panel. Mine is again just
3/16" from the edge of the quarter panel towards the rear door. Also note that I did add between 3/16"-1/4" fiberglass on the surface of the upper hinge. This is an un-necessary step you can skip or do depending on how you see it. The guy on Yotatech didn't find it necessary.
So with the hinges in place, mark the holes and drill accordingly..Amazingly, you will find that there are pre-drilled holes on the d-pillar matching the holes you will make on the panel.
An assistance from a friend would be nice while you're marking the holes.
The gap between the quarter panel and the d-pillar for the upper mount is no more than a 1/4". Like I mentioned, I used grade 8 7/16" bolts, so you want a sleeve/tubing big enough to accept that size bolt. I believe I used a 1/2" ID tubing in 2-3 mm gauge. By the way, yes I enlarged one hinge mount hole for the 7/16" hardware on the upper mount...IIRC, One hole is smaller than the other two.
The idea is to have those sleeves to act as spacers between the quarter panel and the d-pillar. So at the d-pillar end, you will also need to drill holes, enough to enable you to insert the said sleeves and butt them against the body panel(use step drill bit).
Conform the ends of those tubings according to the angle of the quarter panel, so all surface touches flat against it.
I had some nuts welded on the end of those sleeves so it frees one hand when tightening the bolt from the outside. Insert the bolts from the outside and temporarily tighten before welding on the d-pillar, to make sure the threads are aligned and doesn't cross at final mounting.
I also didn't find it necessary to do any welding on the body panel end so don't worry about it. The fabricator who welded mine is a custom hot rod and race car fabricator and could've done it, but he also found no point in doing so.,,,and it makes sense. Bottomline is that mine is holding pretty strongly without movement whatsoever.
I have some pictures of the lower mount, and how they are re-inforced are exactly the same way. Only ofcourse you need longer bolts and sleeves. I tried describing as best I could how thru some colorful illustrated drawings if it helps figuring it out. Check thread.
Also, you won't find a 7/16" bolt longer than 6.5" necessary for the lower hinge, so I fashioned my own with a redi-rod cut to length then weld a nut at the ends. May I also suggest using some lock nuts to keep the bolts from loosening due to vibrations.
Oh if only I had a welder and knew how to weld then!.......Just saying, it really isn't hard at all.
PS! I'm not gonna leave you hanging so do feel free to ask.
Check page 26 on my build for some updated photos.