So my truck has been making the "Buzzing" noise from behind the glove box and now the HVAC system only work the defrost position. I have been researching and it sounds as if the blend door actuator needs to be replaced. I removed the glove box and saw there are two actuator motors, but can't figure out how to replace them. Everything is jam packed in there. Has anyone replaced either of the motors and can offer up some advice? Do they have to be accessed from behind the Radio/Head Unit? I also found a thread on the forum, that someone used a syringe/needle combo to pump a lubricant in the black plastic housing to help free up the circ/vent flap cable. The cable is in the middle of the firewall, but I couldn't locate that cable either. My truck is 2006 Sports V8 if that matters. Need some help otherwise will have to take it to the mechanic.
Blend Door Actuator
- Thread starter H1_VLTG
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Billynath1988
Senior Member
This is also something I need to do before the winter, I only get heat on the drivers side. I've been putting it off for years since once the cold weather is gone its fine lol.
if either of you are interested, i just did an evaporator replacement and i had all the actuators replaced with brand new ones at the same time even though nothing was wrong with them, just wasnt going to tear out the whole dash and not put it back together with all new everything.
any way, i have all 3 servos in perfect working order sitting here on my desk.
i was planning to put up on ebay for sale if this interests you or anyone else reading this
not sure which actuators you guys need but i have:
servo sub-assy, damp - part# 87106-35120 $134.46 new
servo sub-assy, damp - part# 87106-35150 $122.22 new
servo sub-assy, damp - part# 87106-35180 $136.27 new
they are from a 2006 sport and i plan to sell them at $50 each so let me know if you want one or all of them
any way, i have all 3 servos in perfect working order sitting here on my desk.
i was planning to put up on ebay for sale if this interests you or anyone else reading this
not sure which actuators you guys need but i have:
servo sub-assy, damp - part# 87106-35120 $134.46 new
servo sub-assy, damp - part# 87106-35150 $122.22 new
servo sub-assy, damp - part# 87106-35180 $136.27 new
they are from a 2006 sport and i plan to sell them at $50 each so let me know if you want one or all of them
You will have to take out almost the whole dash. It might surprise you what a repair bill will be for that much labor. good luck.
Thanks Duffdog...I was afraid of that. :jaw:
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Does the Sport model have dual zone air like the Limited model or just single zone?
Sport has single zone.
Let's clear some things up. I have replaced the evap myself and also replaced the servo's with the truck all together.
1) The 2 servo's can be removed and replaced with only removing the glove box and lower panel. Explained below.
2) I would highly recommend NOT buying a used servo. Why you ask? Let me try to explain it. The servo motor has a 'plastic' worm gear. The worm gear slides over the shaft and engages a little 'T' at the bottom of the shaft by sitting on it (notches). The top of the worm gear, which is plastic, rides against the servo case with a dab of grease to lube it. WHAT HAPPENS is the end of the worm gear, through friction, wears itself down to the point where there is enough slop that the worm gear slides up the shaft just barely disengaging the 'T' at the bottom of the shaft. Hence the 'CLICK' 'CLICK' 'CLICK'.
Install/Remove Blend servo (top servo)
Remove the glove box and lower panel.
KEY ADVICE #1 - Use a long (like 8-12 inch #2 Phillips) - magnetic tip (required) to remove the 3 screws holding the metal servo frame. Once unscrewed, pry off. Note the location of the servo position, use a big flatblade on the backside of the new servo to rotate it to the correct position.
KEY ADVICE #2 - Before installing, use a bright colored marker to mark the far hole of the frame and the screw top, so it can be easier to see. I used a yellow paint pen.
KEY ADVICE #3 - That upper screw is a bugger to get lined up but can be done. I used one of those screw holders (the kind you see on house outlets and switches that keeps the screw from falling out before installing or a piece of electrical tape)
Take your time. It can be done!
1) The 2 servo's can be removed and replaced with only removing the glove box and lower panel. Explained below.
2) I would highly recommend NOT buying a used servo. Why you ask? Let me try to explain it. The servo motor has a 'plastic' worm gear. The worm gear slides over the shaft and engages a little 'T' at the bottom of the shaft by sitting on it (notches). The top of the worm gear, which is plastic, rides against the servo case with a dab of grease to lube it. WHAT HAPPENS is the end of the worm gear, through friction, wears itself down to the point where there is enough slop that the worm gear slides up the shaft just barely disengaging the 'T' at the bottom of the shaft. Hence the 'CLICK' 'CLICK' 'CLICK'.
Install/Remove Blend servo (top servo)
Remove the glove box and lower panel.
KEY ADVICE #1 - Use a long (like 8-12 inch #2 Phillips) - magnetic tip (required) to remove the 3 screws holding the metal servo frame. Once unscrewed, pry off. Note the location of the servo position, use a big flatblade on the backside of the new servo to rotate it to the correct position.
KEY ADVICE #2 - Before installing, use a bright colored marker to mark the far hole of the frame and the screw top, so it can be easier to see. I used a yellow paint pen.
KEY ADVICE #3 - That upper screw is a bugger to get lined up but can be done. I used one of those screw holders (the kind you see on house outlets and switches that keeps the screw from falling out before installing or a piece of electrical tape)
Take your time. It can be done!
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Thank you for giving me hope.. LOL..
question. if its easy enough to rotate the servo.. for a temp fix, could you lets say switch it into heat position manually with the flat head for the winter and the back to cool for the summer or it doesnt work that way?
Indeed, just unplug the servo, rotate it to the position you want and leave it. I had to do that until I got the parts
Thanks. I don't suppose you took pictures of the procedure, did you? Before I found this discussion, a couple days ago I removed my glove compartment and lower panel to try to locate the ticking on my 2006 Sport and didn't see an easy way to access remove of those servos without first removing the white blower assembly. I was hesitant to do that because I only had an hour or two and wasn't sure I'd be able to get the blower reassembled (my Haynes manual doesn't describe removing it so I'd be flying blind).
Here's the odd thing: I've read several people say that the top one is the blend servo. However, I saw the following behavior. Adust the vent selector (foward, floor, defrost, etc): top servo changes a lot, bottom servo remains stationary. Adjust the temperature: top servo changes slightly (not sure why), bottom servo changes a lot.
That suggests to me that the bottom servo is the blend servo?
Anyway, over the last couple months, the ticking would persist regardless of the vent selection but I could temporarily make it go away by changing the temperature and then changing it back. Based on my observations above, that suggests that the bottom servo is my problem. However, the other evening, the bottom servo was rock stable and I could see the top servo slightly hunting though there was no ticking at the time. I dunno, maybe both servos are going bad and I was just unlucky and didn't see the bottom one hunting.
Anyway, I'm really hoping someone has pics or a video of them replacing these servos without dropping the blower housing. I'm genuinely curious how it's done.
Re-Read above. Re-Read Above!:bluejump:
- You only need to remove the lower panel and glove box to do both servos.
- To remove the blower housing requires complete removal of everything from front seats forward and NOT necessary.
- There are only 3 little screws per servo.
- To get to the top far servo screw, use long magnetic screwdriver insert it through the top of the blower housing (have the bellow up) and straight through to the screw.
- May the force be with you :lightsaber:
The top servo is the "Blend". It controls the front to defrost to floor. (confirmed)
The bottom servo is the temp blending (if i recall correctly)
Look in the service manual on how to put the A/C controls/servos into test mode. It's simple.
TowMeOut
New member
Hmmm.....gonna have to do some more research. So far I'm not getting a buzz but a clickity-clickity-click whenever I have the system on Auto and the air blowing out through the dash vents. Generally, hitting the floor/face mix button quietens it down. However, this also takes it out of Auto mode. So I don't really know which actuator is making the racket. Time to pull out the panels and get into the dash up close and personal.
Just pull one of the electrical connectors off the servo and see if it stops making sounds. If so, you got it, if not, its the other one, lol.
:rapture:
I recently had my air do the same thing. Mine is the servo that controls where the air is blowing like defrost, top and bottom thing. I removed the glove box and looked under to the left under the black servo box. When you click the buttons you’ll see something move its a white piece that you can grab a small screw driver and help it along its way to the desired position and it should stay there as long as you don’t press the buttons again or you’ll have to do the whole process all over again.
Getting it replaced will be a huge pain in the ass if you do it your self or cost a crap ton if you pay someone to do it.
My AC went out while vacationing in OBX last week. Luckily it was the second half of the week while it wasn't as humid so the ride home was tolerable.
I have been hearing a noise behind the radio a few months prior so I'm leaning to the blend door servos/actuators being bad. Before it went completely dead the drivers side blew hot air while the passenger side blew cold. Now both sides are hot.
I'm gonna check freon pressure this evening just to be sure.
I pulled the glove box and can see the top and bottom servos.
My question is where is the third servo located? If I can access it i would like to replace all 3 while I'm in there.
Truck has 140K Miles its a 2006 sport v8 awd. As far as I know the freon has never been refilled. I bought the truck at 88K miles.
Thanks
I have been hearing a noise behind the radio a few months prior so I'm leaning to the blend door servos/actuators being bad. Before it went completely dead the drivers side blew hot air while the passenger side blew cold. Now both sides are hot.
I'm gonna check freon pressure this evening just to be sure.
I pulled the glove box and can see the top and bottom servos.
My question is where is the third servo located? If I can access it i would like to replace all 3 while I'm in there.
Truck has 140K Miles its a 2006 sport v8 awd. As far as I know the freon has never been refilled. I bought the truck at 88K miles.
Thanks
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Don't mind my post above. Upon further searching I found a post from BlackWorksInc showing the 3rd servo for recirculating air on the right side.
Thanks
UPDATE:
Just wanted to update this thread to add info. Turns out the freon was low. The system had a slow leak. I'm not sure how it effects the blend door servos but I did some reading that toyotas will blow cold hot air on one side if low on freon :noidea: . I refilled it with A/C pro synthetic.
Quick note. Walmart had the freon cheaper than advance auto by 20 bux.
Thanks
UPDATE:
Just wanted to update this thread to add info. Turns out the freon was low. The system had a slow leak. I'm not sure how it effects the blend door servos but I did some reading that toyotas will blow cold hot air on one side if low on freon :noidea: . I refilled it with A/C pro synthetic.
Quick note. Walmart had the freon cheaper than advance auto by 20 bux.
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HOLY MOLY!!!! :jaw::wow2:
Servos cost lest than $100 each OEM Denso
For that cost, you could have flown me out and have it done with a chunk of change left over!!!
