Blown Fuse, No Power Windows/Radio/AC Fan, etc. Help please....

[Ralph III]

Hello All,

I have a 2004 4Runner and have an issue at the moment.

The AC stopped working this week so today my Dad and I were trying to troubleshoot. The compressor wasn't coming on so we first checked fuses.

After finding no blown fuses we decided to check the refrigerant level.

However, upon starting the truck my AC controls and radio wouldn't come on? Nor does my automatic windows or speedometer work? My battery apparently isn't recharging now either.

I cannot find any blown fuses anywhere (dash or hood) and cleaned the battery terminals.

1) What specific fuse(s) should I be looking for?
2) Otherwise, any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ralph

 

[riceandpho]

did u use a test light to check every fuse?

 

[Ralph III]

did u use a test light to check every fuse?

Hello and thanks for the reply!

No, I didn't test each fuse for continuity. The standard fuses are the clear type in which a blown fuse is easily seen. I checked all the apparent relevant one's (radio, dome, radio 2) first and then every one that was 10amp or greater, along with several at random. Nothing showed to be blown. I didn't have time to delve further but will today(Sunday) sometime.

In researching, I came across several posts that lead me to beleive there may be an issue with one or several white "relays"? One of those is denoted as "DOME" also. Anyhow, it was stated the originals(90987-02022) suffered from a defect and should be replaced with a newer version(90987-02028). There are about 5 of those types with only one being the newest version.

I wouldn't know how to test those however as they have about 4 knife contacts. I did swap each one out but nothing ever changed. I had to stop at that point.

Ralph

 

[20034RunnerV84x2]

Hello and thanks for the reply!

No, I didn't test each fuse for continuity. The standard fuses are the clear type in which a blown fuse is easily seen. I checked all the apparent relevant one's (radio, dome, radio 2) first and then every one that was 10amp or greater, along with several at random. Nothing showed to be blown. I didn't have time to delve further but will today(Sunday) sometime.

In researching, I came across several posts that lead me to beleive there may be an issue with one or several white "relays"? One of those is denoted as "DOME" also. Anyhow, it was stated the originals(90987-02022) suffered from a defect and should be replaced with a newer version(90987-02028). There are about 5 of those types with only one being the newest version.

I wouldn't know how to test those however as they have about 6 knife contacts. I did swap each one out but nothing ever changed. I had to stop at that point.

Ralph

If the battery isn't recharging I'd replace it with a good brand (Interstate) and if that doesnt work take it back and install the old one. I think its the battery if it isn't recharging or it could be a fuse on the interior. Did you check those?

 

[Ralph III]

If the battery isn't recharging I'd replace it with a good brand (Interstate) and if that doesnt work take it back and install the old one. I think its the battery if it isn't recharging or it could be a fuse on the interior. Did you check those?

Yes, I'm suspecting the battery may need checking so will take it by AutoZone today. I don't think it's ever been replaced.

However, I'm not sure that would be the issue with the windows/door locks/radio/fan control/speedometer and such from not working? The vehicle starts and the lights turn on, etc? I'm also going to purchase a couple of new relays and try those.

I did check several fuses under the dash but none of those were blown and none seemed relevant? I may post a few pics in a little bit to show the fuses in case someone knows exactly which one's I should concentrate on.

ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???


Thanks,
Ralph

 

[R.A.]

In the engine compartment fusebox, check your DOME fuse, 10A. Visually sometimes you cannot tell if the fuse is blown and you have to do a continuity check (check with a meter).

 

[20034RunnerV84x2]

I see Gauges, make sure to check that. And a bad battery can do some crazy stuff. Most people think if its bad it won't start the vehicle or the radio and other electronics wount work. A bad battery can mess up a lot of things, when mine went dead my gauges, radio, a/c panel, dome lights, or power windows/ locks/ mirrors wouldn't work. Put in a interstate battery and everything came back to life.

 

[Ralph III]

AutoZone confirmed the battery was bad. The new battery however didn't solve the problem at hand. My radio/AC fan/door locks/windows etc, are all still dead.

I checked the continuity of every "standard" fuse in the fuse panel under the hood and under the dash. Each fuse looked good and showed good by my meter.

AutoZone couldn't cross reference the Relay I brought in, so I'm going to call that back in. There are 7 of these Relays. Most are white with one being purple and one gray. The white one's have the old numbers.

There may be several more but the one's I noted control the following; C/OPN, DOME, EFI, A/F HEATER, FR FOG, STA, MG CLT. I've provided some pics just in case someone may have another suggestion or in spotting something.

Thanks,
Ralph

 

[Ralph III]

one more

 

[Ralph III]

This is the fuse box and cover from under the dash.

 

[riceandpho]

Take the 10amp dome fuse and swap it out fir anothee one, sometimes fuses look good but its bad.

 

[Ralph III]

Hello All,
First, all the fuses are good. I've inspected each one three times now, twice by physically looking at them and once with a meter in checking continuity. None of the fuses are blown.

I also purchased a new Relay from Advanced Auto and swapped it out with every like-kind. That didn't make a difference either.

It has to be something else. Maybe a short in the harness connection or possibly the ignition switch? I'm stumped and grasping at straws at this point.

Unless someone chimes in who is intimately familiar with the issue, then it may end up going to the shop.

Any other suggestions?

 

[R.A.]

Any other suggestions?

Take the 10amp dome fuse and swap it out fir anothee one, sometimes fuses look good but its bad.

I agree with rice. Try another fuse.

 

[Ralph III]

I have swapped it out with others and no change.

In fact, I removed a known good door dinger fuse (DOME, 10amp) and checked every fuse over 10amps in it's slot. I checked every 10amp, 15amp, 20amp, 25amp, 30amp under the hood and dash. Each fuse proved to be good as each caused the door dinger to sound off upon inserting. A blown fuse would not have caused the dinger to sound off.

I've never had a problem simply spotting a bad fuse, having worked at an Auto Auction for 14 years. Not as a mechanic but I'm quite familiar with troubleshooting for myself through many years. I've physically checked every fuse and have now checked continuity on every fuse including double checking every fuse over 10amps. I've swapped pertinent fuses with others as well. Every fuse has tested good and as such the fuses are proving not to be the issue. I understand the requests as everything says it should be a fuse but it's not....

I can keep checking fuses but at some point I am going to need a different suggestion??

Thanks,
Ralph

 

[riceandpho]

The only fuses i would check is the ecu-b fuse and also both radio fuse. Interior one check guage maybe. Sorry couldnt help u more. Did u do anything b4 the things dont light up? How about check the dimmer switch.

 

[riceandpho]

I remember that with no ecu fuse, everything inside is dead, but when theres a fuse it works, maybe u have a bad ac relay.

 

[Ralph III]

I remember that with no ecu fuse, everything inside is dead, but when theres a fuse it works, maybe u have a bad ac relay.

I've checked and replaced the "ecu-b" and "radio1, radio2" fuses so many times I've stopped counting. I also purchased a new "magnetic clutch relay" which should be the same as your referring to as a "ac relay"? I provided a picture and notation in post #8 and #9, with the relay description in #3. If you're speaking about something different then let me know.

Thanks,
Ralph

 

[cabowally]

Sounds like an ignition switch issue to me. Faulty switch or bad wiring connection somewhere in or out. The switch controls 4 elements: Starting, IGN1, IGN2 and ACC. I've never seen it but it would be possible for one or several contacts in the switch to go bad while one or more were ok. Hence the vehicle starting but no power to the charging system, radio, windows and such. Lights aren't wired through the switch which is why they continue to work.

I would first start by getting the wiring diagram out of the FSM (probably located in the Engine Control System section). Focus on getting one thing working like the radio.

Turn it on and then turn the ignition to the ON position while shaking the key. If nothing happens then test the switch and then work your way down the line.

Good luck










.

 

[Ralph III]

Sounds like an ignition switch issue to me. Faulty switch or bad wiring connection somewhere in or out. The switch controls 4 elements: Starting, IGN1, IGN2 and ACC. I've never seen it but it would be possible for one or several contacts in the switch to go bad while one or more were ok. Hence the vehicle starting but no power to the charging system, radio, windows and such. Lights aren't wired through the switch which is why they continue to work...


Good luck

.

I'm not a mechanic but after initially finding all fuses to be good I wondered if the ignition switch or a possible short may be the culprit. The original battery was bad and corroded at negative terminal. It actually sparked once, so I had to clean and re-tighten.

The new battery however is staying charged, so I'm assuming the charging system is fine. It has yet to run down anyhow.

Not to discourage input, as I need all, but I'm also consulting with a tech on "2CarPros".

In isolating a single component, he asked me to remove the driver door panel and then the window-switch wiring harness. He expected to find power on the #11 terminal(black wire) of the wiring disconnect, upon turning the ignition to "on". There was no power however. The #7 terminal(red wire) has constant power as expected.

I then noted I had checked all the fuses for continuity as well as battery voltage (each fuse leg). The ECU-IG shows no power at all, nor does numerous other fuses under the dash (STA No2, FR WiP-WSH, 4WD, RR WSH, IG1, STA, ACC).

I've also checked all the fuses under the hood. Each leg of each fuse shows 12volts with exception of one row in the middle (HEATER 2, AIRSUS 2, SEAT HEATER,
DEFOG, MIR HEATER).


Ralph

 

[riceandpho]

Did u take out the 30 amp fuse inside at the bottom of the fuse block? I think its a main one too.