Body lift install Cost?

BunchDub11

New member
So doing it myself isn't in the question for I stay in a dorm on campus, what kind of install quote would I be looking @?
 
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Usually a shop will just charge the typical hourly rate for a mechanic, somewhere in the neighborhood of $70-95/hour. If you have basic tools and knowledge, you can find writeups to guide you through the install. It doesn't appear too difficult and is definitely much easier than doing a suspension lift install.
I lived in the dorms too at one point; maybe you could find some room in the parking lot to get it done on a weekend with the help of a buddy. Just offer him some beer or something!
 
Beer always works. And yea you would really only need the room of about two spots to get it done. And this weekend is Easter, I would be safe to assume that many students will be going home and will give you plenty of room.
 
I did one on a Datsun pickup I owned back in the 80's.

The hardest thing was I had to cut a hole in the fire that allowed the body to move up without impeding the steering-wheel. Kit came with a plate to cover the old hose and to secure the steering-wheel to the fire-wall. Radiator also had to be dropped. Kit came with a bracket for that too. A few other things..but all-in-all it wasn't very difficult. I wasn't living in a dorm..but I didn't have a garage either. Everything was done in my driveway. With today's battery power tools you can probably do it in the schools parking lot on a nice day.
 
For parts and labor $500-$600. $200 for the kit, the rest labor. I thought that was high, until I read about a couple guys doing it themselves and having radiator problems and steering problems.
 
You usually don't have issues with the radiator/steering unless you're doing 1" or more, IIRC. Obviously the 1/2" install is the easiest and it gets more tricky from there. I remember reading that the steering spacer giving some guys hell.
 
I was also in the same boat as you, I was qouted about 450 to have it put in, (almost bit the bullet just because I got excited once it came in the mail) But I ended up doing it myself when I went home for a weekend where my tools were at
 
I installed the toytec 1" on my own a couple weeks ago. I'm a typical DIY'er, good at following directions helps. Toytec has a good write up on their website and also on toyota120.com With 1" you dont need the steering extension and to drop the radiator all you have to do is drill new holes because its only an inch. I'd say its mostly time consuming, because of pulling off the bumper, interior panels, windshield washer fluid reservoir and an extra set of hands is helpful. I did it over four days, 2-3 hours a day.
 
I installed the toytec 1" on my own a couple weeks ago. I'm a typical DIY'er, good at following directions helps. Toytec has a good write up on their website and also on toyota120.com With 1" you dont need the steering extension and to drop the radiator all you have to do is drill new holes because its only an inch. I'd say its mostly time consuming, because of pulling off the bumper, interior panels, windshield washer fluid reservoir and an extra set of hands is helpful. I did it over four days, 2-3 hours a day.

The windshield washer fluid reservoir was a PITA for sure. I had another member come over last weekend to knock out a 1.25 BL and it went pretty well. We kept the bumper on too. I have not installed the steering spacer yet, but will get to it this weekend. A good floor jack will make the job so much easier so you have to factor in the cost of tools. If you can borrow them you're that much better.
 
Most of it's been pointed out. It's a pretty simple install. 90% or more of it's just bolts/nuts, nothing tricky there. As mentioned, for me the washer reservoir was a PITA. I didn't remove the bumper, I didn't feel it was needed. Not hard to do, you just need room to work and some tools.

I will say this, I probably wouldn't advise going at it in a school parking lot. I did mine in a shop that's fairly well stocked with tools and was surprised at what all I ended up using to get the job done. At the same time, I wouldn't pay the $300+ it would take to get the job done as it is easy to do (just having patience and allow plenty of time).
 
Paid 250 to have mine installed while I was at work. Two separate places quoted me the 250, went with whoever was able to knock it out sooner. Haven't dropped the radiator (1" BL) but it would probably be a good idea since the fan is extremely close to housing or whatever you call it. Haven't had any problems thus far after 3 weeks and a couple long trips, but it is one my list of things to get done to prevent any problems with it in the future.
 
Good stuff everyone, I'm just going to wait til the summer then I guess 16 more days want kill me and i'll be home and do it with some buddies. What size would you reccomend? 1 or 1.5 for the least troubles?
 
Good stuff everyone, I'm just going to wait til the summer then I guess 16 more days want kill me and i'll be home and do it with some buddies. What size would you reccomend? 1 or 1.5 for the least troubles?

Least troubles is 1" for sure; this way you could get around having to do the steering spacer. No front bumper gap either.
 
Since we're on the subject of body-lifts, and by no means a move to hi-jack your thread, would it (1" BL) fix the rubbing issue created by adding wheel spacers on a Daystar Spacer lifted (2.5/1.5) T4R?
 
Since we're on the subject of body-lifts, and by no means a move to hi-jack your thread, would it (1" BL) fix the rubbing issue created by adding wheel spacers on a Daystar Spacer lifted (2.5/1.5) T4R?

Depends on where it's rubbing. Fender, yes it would help. Body mount, wouldn't make a difference.
 

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