Body Mount Chop?

[Veet Skeet]

So I am debating whether or not to level my 2014 TE 4Runner or if I should go with the 3' lift.

The thing is I want to run 33' tires if I get a 3' lift, and I am afraid of running into problems with rubbing the body mount and then having to get that chopped. Something about messing with the frame on a brand new car makes me cringe.

For you guys with a 3' lift and 33' tires, what are your experiences with rubbing?

 

[Bad_Influence]

With the setup you are looking to install, you might not have to chop anything. It all depends on which wheels/tires and suspension you decide to get obviously.

Either way, if a small body mount chop is required, it will not ruin the integrity of the chassis on these t4r's, unless your mechanic/welder is incredibly incompetent.

 

[Veet Skeet]

I should have clarified what wheels and tires I was looking at getting in the OP.

I am looking at these:
285/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs
Konig Countersteer X 17' Wheels (I believe the offset is 0)
OR Mickey Thompson Beadlocks 17' Wheels (I believe offset is -12)

The lifts I am considering are:
Toytec BOSS Lift Kit
Light Racing UCAs

Would I run into any rubbing with these?

 

[KVA]

No issues with the body mounts but you will need to move/alter the liner after aligned to remove rubbing. Search as it's been documented to death in this forum.

 

[BigredTEX]

What KVA said. No worries with the body mount chop with that setup, but you will most likely need to re-arrange the inner fender liner or cut away a small amount at the front of the wheel well.

 

[bimrunner]

I didn't need to chop until I went to 34s. The only people doing the chop on 33s are either not setting castor far enough forward or they are running spacers as well or wheels that require it due to offset and back spacing. The wheels you are looking at are -10.

 

[Jim82]

I have the 285/70/17 Duratracs, I run wheel spacers and have a slight lift from the 5100's at their max setting and I still have the factory UCA with the caster as far forward as possible with my lift (or so I was told). I did not have to do a body mount chop, though I did have to remove the mud flaps, push the fender liner forward, and cut some of it off. No rubbing.
Hopefully, though not entirely necessary, after I get new UCA's and get my caster to +4deg, I will be able to reinstall the mud flaps with no running.

 

[Drew Dumas]

I'll be attempting to install my boss lift on my 2010 TE tomorrow. Got one friend to help. Hopefully all goes smoothly. I'll also be installing the LR UCA's.
Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[Jimmy_D]

I've got 285 Duratrac's on my 2013 TE with Icon coilovers in front and Toytec springs and Icon shocks in back. Icon UCA's in front. I still get a slight bit of rubbing in certain circumstances even with the castor set forward a good deal; and I had my body mounts chopped. If you do happen to wind up with any troublesome rubbing you can always get the body mounts taken care of.

 

[phillyd2]

Also running 285 Duratrac and rubbed at full lock - I chopped.

 

[Ol'Baditude]

I chopped mine as well. It was the only way to eliminate 100% of rubbing issues. My UCA and LCA were set to max out caster and get the wheels set as far forward as possible while preserving alignment capability.
I ran spacers to leave a sufficient gap between my LR UCA's and the side biters on the inner edge of the tire, so the mudflaps got removed and the fender liner got pushed forward in the front to eliminate steering rub. Still had rubbing at full lock in reverse, so the body mount got chopped. Now, I can be at full flex and full lock and no rubbing whatsoever. Very happy with this setup.
Recently I installed wheels with a .5" less backspacing and removed the spacers and I have sufficient gap between the UCA and the tire and still experience no rubbing while offroading.

 

[Hellamatic]

Mine's chopped to eliminate all rubbing. Doing it isn't as scary as it might sound.

 

[myT4R-TE&me]

Reinstall Mud Flaps after Body Mount Chop?

For those that have chopped, has anyone reinstalled the Mud Flaps and cut out the plastic in order to preserve the overall seamless look of the fender flares? Or are aftermarket Mud Flaps necessary?

 

[Dirty Brigade]

I hunk its time for me to join this party too. Just set my 5100's at 2.5 in the front and am running 265 duratracs with spidertrax spacers. It rubs at full lock. I already cut the mud flaps and fenders a bit. Cutting and welding on a 2015 is a little scary to me but I know it's time.

 

[Javelin]

I am running 5100s at .85 with countersteers and 285/70 Duratracs and I rub on the body mount. But I am only leveled not lifted. Duratracs are bigger than most tires. 285/70 Duratracs are a true 33.0 inch tire where as a 285/70 BFG KO is only a 32.8.

 

[Hellamatic]

For those that have chopped, has anyone reinstalled the Mud Flaps and cut out the plastic in order to preserve the overall seamless look of the fender flares? Or are aftermarket Mud Flaps necessary?

I just trimmed my flaps and made 'em skinny. Not super effective as mudflaps, but they keep the flares from looking goofy. Pics in my build thread

 

[alfonzo]

I chose the Toytec Boss and 285/70 r17. Stealth 6 wheels.

With Chaos UCA maxed out at 4.9 and 5.1 camber, my duratrac's rub. I need a chop and new ring/pinions gears.

 

[MadeInMaine]

Hey everyone,

what kind of shop will/can do the body mount chop?

Cheers

 

[krans]

I should have clarified what wheels and tires I was looking at getting in the OP.

I am looking at these:
285/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs
Konig Countersteer X 17' Wheels (I believe the offset is 0)
OR Mickey Thompson Beadlocks 17' Wheels (I believe offset is -12)

The lifts I am considering are:
Toytec BOSS Lift Kit
Light Racing UCAs

Would I run into any rubbing with these?

What's going dude! What happen to your methods?