Body Side Molding
- Thread starter Mike G.
- Start date
pattycakes
New member
pattycakes
New member
Snooperstyle
Member
Pattycakes, you have black fender flares but your tagline says you have SR5. I thought those were only on the TE. Did you paint those, or were they an option in your area? It is not a 4-cyl right, since they discontinued those in 2011? Or did they only discontinue those in the US? Sorry if this was answered elsewhere.
westwind77
New member
It's those darn Canadian packages, always having to be different, thinking they are soooo special or something :hiding:
:wink2:
Snooperstyle
Member
It's those darn Canadian packages, always having to be different, thinking they are soooo special or something :hiding:
Looks like it has TE fog light housings too. I like it!
pattycakes
New member
I take that as an insult Ryan S . I like the CAN edition SR5 better more ruged , not prissy looking , no chrome nice factory mud flaps and running boards to protect from rock chips . And it only cost $ 45 K . Good Deals up here eh.
Last edited:
SeattleMike
New member
I like the front bumper piece more than the TE, too. The extra black plastic on the US TE adds nothing but extra cost, IMO.
pattycakes
New member
Actually if you look too quickly at my first pic, it kind of does look like a Ford Explorer lol. Thank god I bought it for the wife and I don't drive it.
Mike G.
New member
The factory instructions are pretty good along with the recommended measurements.
I will tell you how I did mine, I'm not sure if its the best way, but it seemed to work for me and it was pretty easy.
1) Make sure the surface area is clean.
2) Use a soft microfiber towel and dampen with rubbing alcohol, gently wipe down the area and let dry (a couple of minutes).
3) I measured the distance and applied blue painters tape to use as a template to make sure the measurements were straight. Double check all of your measurements, I almost made a mistake at this point, but I caught it when I rechecked everything.
4) Make sure you have the right piece of moulding and peel off the backing material, I really slowed this down and took my time when I started to apply the moulding , when it sticks, it sticks! I lined up the bottom edge of the moulding with the blue painters tape and slowly applied the moulding.
5) Use a clean microfiber with a little bit of detail spray to dampen the towel with (This acts like a lubricant and wont scratch the finish on the moulding when you are rubbing the moulding on) and gently rub the moulding to ensure it is on 100%.
6) I did not wash my truck for a few days, just to make sure the adhesive was nice and dry. I then applied a few coats of wax and was finished.
I hope this helped and I`m not sure if this is the best method, but my stuff is on straight and it has not fallen off yet:beer:
I will tell you how I did mine, I'm not sure if its the best way, but it seemed to work for me and it was pretty easy.
1) Make sure the surface area is clean.
2) Use a soft microfiber towel and dampen with rubbing alcohol, gently wipe down the area and let dry (a couple of minutes).
3) I measured the distance and applied blue painters tape to use as a template to make sure the measurements were straight. Double check all of your measurements, I almost made a mistake at this point, but I caught it when I rechecked everything.
4) Make sure you have the right piece of moulding and peel off the backing material, I really slowed this down and took my time when I started to apply the moulding , when it sticks, it sticks! I lined up the bottom edge of the moulding with the blue painters tape and slowly applied the moulding.
5) Use a clean microfiber with a little bit of detail spray to dampen the towel with (This acts like a lubricant and wont scratch the finish on the moulding when you are rubbing the moulding on) and gently rub the moulding to ensure it is on 100%.
6) I did not wash my truck for a few days, just to make sure the adhesive was nice and dry. I then applied a few coats of wax and was finished.
I hope this helped and I`m not sure if this is the best method, but my stuff is on straight and it has not fallen off yet:beer:
ct221933
New member
I am getting the BSM....thanks for the tips. I am thinking of using dry erase marker sparingly as needed to mark as well. Shouldn't damage the paint I think.
Side Molding Tips
My 4 Runner is a twin to Mike G.'s and his directions are spot on. I put the side molding on mine on a few months ago. The only thing I did in addition was to actually tape the pieces onto the door so I could see if they would not catch when the door opened. Each piece is beveled already, but you install it too tight to the door edge it might bind up when the door is opened.
Definitely use the painters tape that Mike is speaking of and measure,measure and then measure again. I must have sweated off 5 lbs that day!!
Good luck. If you do city driving they are worth the trouble. Mine saved me twice already from a door ding.
My 4 Runner is a twin to Mike G.'s and his directions are spot on. I put the side molding on mine on a few months ago. The only thing I did in addition was to actually tape the pieces onto the door so I could see if they would not catch when the door opened. Each piece is beveled already, but you install it too tight to the door edge it might bind up when the door is opened.
Definitely use the painters tape that Mike is speaking of and measure,measure and then measure again. I must have sweated off 5 lbs that day!!
Good luck. If you do city driving they are worth the trouble. Mine saved me twice already from a door ding.
azn-sensation
New member
I will definitely need to look into this.
