Brake Accumulator change procedure?

Erik Steinbring

New member
I have come to the conclusion after hours of internet research and multiple testing sessions that the accumulator is on its way out on my 04 SR5.

The booster pump is working and all the dash lights go out as soon as the accumulator hits pressure. However, after an hour the codes are back reading low pressure. When I pump the pedal around 10 times the lights also come on. Once the pump catches up the lights go out.

I can purchase the Accumulator for $256 plus shipping online. It is a special order item which will take a few days to arrive. Upon my research I noticed that a lot of auto manufacturers make changing the Accumulator a painless process. Basically depressurize, unscrew the old/bad accumulator and screw on the new one. Since the system is closed usually no bleeding is required which I found odd. I was wondering if it was the same for the 4Runner or could be done in the same manner without having to disassemble the whole system from the firewall.

Does anyone know where I can find the procedure to just swap out the Accumulator? Has anyone just replaced the accumulator?
 
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KM,

Thanks for the pages. They show the whole system off of the firewall. It just seems like a lot of work to replace a part that screws in and out on the topside.

I would consider replacing the whole unit but the motor is pressurizing the system fine, all lights bells and whistle go out while in park and remain so driving short distances. The lights pop on after a few pedal pumps which leads me to a weak accumulator. Every time I shut the vehicle down within a hour the Accumulator low pressure code pops up upon restart. Also with the engine off within 10 or less pumps the system is completely depressurized. From what I have read if the accumulator problem is not repaired the booster pump will be the next to go due to more than normal cycling.

I am just a shade tree mechanic, is there something else I should be looking or testing for?
 
Huh... I could have sworn I put a .pdf link in the thread? I guess I didn't...

Anyways, here's some pictures of a tear down I did on my old unit:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/120125-hydraboost-brake-assembly.html

Sorry I didn't get around to your thread much this week, I have been busy at work and afterwards all week.

KM,

Thanks for the pages. They show the whole system off of the firewall. It just seems like a lot of work to replace a part that screws in and out on the topside.

I would consider replacing the whole unit but the motor is pressurizing the system fine, all lights bells and whistle go out while in park and remain so driving short distances. The lights pop on after a few pedal pumps which leads me to a weak accumulator. Every time I shut the vehicle down within a hour the Accumulator low pressure code pops up upon restart. Also with the engine off within 10 or less pumps the system is completely depressurized. From what I have read if the accumulator problem is not repaired the booster pump will be the next to go due to more than normal cycling.

I am just a shade tree mechanic, is there something else I should be looking or testing for?

Did I ever get you information regarding how the pressure sensor works? Or did you ever get the chance to test the sensor and verify it is working correctly?
 
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

Thanks for your reply. You didn't give any info regarding the sensor operation. I am not certain as it is VERY vague as to whether the "Pressure Switch" is the same as the "Pressure Sensor". Any info would be greatly appreciated as I have not ordered any parts yet.

I did perform the shade tree test and disconnected the connection to the pressure sensor to see if a new code would be thrown and one was. Once I reconnected the pressure sensor the code (code 46 do not have my notes in front of me) went away.

Currently the accumulator needs a kick start to fire up the pump with light tap with any hard object, currently a small river rock is working well.......one or two light taps on the top and the pump fires up, pressure is obtained, all the dash drama goes away and all is good.................however retention of pressure is short lived.

"The Bomb" I think is the culprit of the issues as everything I have read and see seem to point to a failing accumulator. Please let me know your thoughts are.
 
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I was able to pick up the booster pump assembly with a accumulator. Since it is independent of the master cylinder and ABS module, is it possible to replace these components without having to disconnect and remove the master cylinder off the firewall? I have looked at the pictures and while separate it appears Toyota did not leave much room to work.
 
I was able to pick up the booster pump assembly with a accumulator. Since it is independent of the master cylinder and ABS module, is it possible to replace these components without having to disconnect and remove the master cylinder off the firewall? I have looked at the pictures and while separate it appears Toyota did not leave much room to work.

I disassembled my old one on the bench, I'm not sure you can do it on the vehicle very easily.
 
I was able to pick up the booster pump assembly with a accumulator. Since it is independent of the master cylinder and ABS module, is it possible to replace these components without having to disconnect and remove the master cylinder off the firewall? I have looked at the pictures and while separate it appears Toyota did not leave much room to work.

[MENTION=110419]Erik Steinbring[/MENTION] Did you ever make this repair? I want to know if I can just swap out the accumulator.
 
You can do it, but I don't think it's possible with the unit mounted on the firewall.

roger that. mine is vibrating constantly and has now started to screech, like a long turkey call. i hope its just the accumulator ($300) and not the pump assy ($1000+) no warning lights or loss of brake pressure though. :suspicious:

thanks
 
I changed out the booster pump and accumulator assembly, bought it from a used parts house on E-bay. They gave a 3 month warranty on the part, been two years and still working great. It took me about 3 hours from start to finish to perform the swap out. The hardest part was putting a small cotter pin back in place upon reassembly due to tight quarters under the dash.

I later tried to remove the accumulator off the old assembly, just for fun without much luck. I appears there is a special wrench that is required to make the process easier. As Blackworks said it is possible.
 
I'd like to share my experience with my brake accumulator noise problem and how I got it fixed in an unconventional way so it may benefit someone in the future who may encounter the similar issue:

My SUV: 2007 4Runner, 2WD, SR5, 142,000 miles

Problem: Brake accumulator making constant LOUD whining noise (with a frequency of every 2-3 second) whenever driving. This whining noise has been persistently bothering me for a couple of weeks day-in day-out. No warning light on the dashboard and the braking power actually feels normal.

Potential root cause as I learned from this forum and other online resources from the most obvious to the least likely:

1. excessive air in brake lines or brake system components;
2. a broken o-Ring (it can be ordered with under $5 from any Toyota dealer) between brake accumulator and the ABS boost pump.
3. a jammed spring and bent pin (parts can be ordered with under $5 total from any dealer) between the accumulator and the ABS boost pump;
4. a faulty accumulator (~$380 from dealer as of July 2017);
5 a faulty ABS actuator assembly (basically accumulator plus ABS boost pump) ($1600 from dealer);
6. a faulty Brake Master Cylinder (extremely unlikely and very expensive to replace. as of July 2017, the quoted price from dealer for this BMC is $2700).

Action Taken to have it fixed for $150:

1. I flushed the brake fluid and bled the lines - no help at all.

2. I then ordered the cheap parts (O-ring, Spring and Pin mentioned above) from the dealer and prepared myself mentally for the repair procedures (it's not an easy undertaking for me as an entry level self-taught cheap handyman)

3. I reluctantly followed my wife's advice to have a Toyota dealer run a formal diagnosis for my 4R without knowing the diagnosis is not free (I thought it's free!)

4. I Rejected dealer's proposal: The dealer concluded there's a kind of internal gasket leak in the ABS actuator assembly which must be replaced at the very minimum ($1600 part and $750 of labor). They did recommend to replace the entire BMC ($2700 part plus $750 labor) just to be sure to take care of the problem.

5. I declined dealer's alternative proposal: the dealer is kindly willing to replace just the accumulator per my request under the condition of my acceptance that it may not fix the problem. The cost is $1130 (part $380 for the accumulator, labor $750). I was struggling with the thought "What's the point to pay this much money without any kind of assurance?"

6. I Paid $140 diagnosis fee to the dealer (who informed me I can actually use this $140 toward any future bill if I come back later for this issue) and Decided to order a new accumulator online or a used ABS actuator assembly online so I can do the replacement myself. I will start with the cheapest option 1st and don't mind going through the replace procedure multiple times.

7. The Unexpected happened: On my way driving back home from the dealership, my 4R was whining/squeaking/buzzing as usual. But after about 5 miles of driving, the noise all the sudden miraculously stopped!! I thought it's just temporary but after 4 days of extensive or aggressive drivings, I am convinced that the technician who performed the diagnosis have "accidentally" made the noise go away. My brake is as good, as effective, as confident as before. Crossing my fingers...

Speculation:

The technician at the dealership must have done something during the diagnostic procedures to make the noise go away. I could think of two steps he may have performed during the 1 hour work: bleed the brake fluid again and re-set the ECU to just root out these two obvious possibilities with his own expert hands. It might be the ECU freaked out in my case so it keeps sending signals/commands to charge up the accumulator constantly. What else he may have done? It doesn't make too much sense to a logic mind, but doesn't matter at all as long as the issue is resolved and as long as it doesn't come back any time soon.

Well, that's my real experience with this "expensive" problem "resolved" for $150 ($140 diagnosis fee + $10 parts I never used). This is a rare case where a "formal diagnosis" may actually solve the problem being diagnosed. Lucky me, it actually saved all the toils I have planned to go through myself with the repair work in the coming weekend. Hope it helps. Good luck to all.
 
Last edited:
I'd like to share my experience with my brake accumulator noise problem and how I got it fixed in an unconventional way so it may benefit someone in the future who may encounter the similar issue:

My SUV: 2007 4Runner, 2WD, SR5, 142,000 miles

Problem: Brake accumulator making constant LOUD whining noise (with a frequency of every 2-3 second) whenever driving. This whining noise has been persistently bothering me for a couple of weeks day-in day-out. No warning light on the dashboard and the braking power actually feels normal.

Potential root cause as I learned from this forum and other online resources from the most obvious to the least likely:

1. excessive air in brake lines or brake system components;
2. a broken o-Ring (it can be ordered with under $5 from any Toyota dealer) between brake accumulator and the ABS boost pump.
3. a jammed spring and bent pin (parts can be ordered with under $5 total from any dealer) between the accumulator and the ABS boost pump;
4. a faulty accumulator (~$380 from dealer as of July 2017);
5 a faulty ABS actuator assembly (basically accumulator plus ABS boost pump) ($1600 from dealer);
6. a faulty Brake Master Cylinder (extremely unlikely and very expensive to replace. as of July 2017, the quoted price from dealer for this BMC is $2700).

Action Taken to have it fixed for $150:

1. I flushed the brake fluid and bled the lines - no help at all.

2. I then ordered the cheap parts (O-ring, Spring and Pin mentioned above) from the dealer and prepared myself mentally for the repair procedures (it's not an easy undertaking for me as an entry level self-taught cheap handyman)

3. I reluctantly followed my wife's advice to have a Toyota dealer run a formal diagnosis for my 4R without knowing the diagnosis is not free (I thought it's free!)

4. I Rejected dealer's proposal: The dealer concluded there's a kind of internal gasket leak in the ABS actuator assembly which must be replaced at the very minimum ($1600 part and $750 of labor). They did recommend to replace the entire BMC ($2700 part plus $750 labor) just to be sure to take care of the problem.

5. I declined dealer's alternative proposal: the dealer is kindly willing to replace just the accumulator per my request under the condition of my acceptance that it may not fix the problem. The cost is $1130 (part $380 for the accumulator, labor $750). I was struggling with the thought "What's the point to pay this much money without any kind of assurance?"

6. I Paid $140 diagnosis fee to the dealer (who informed me I can actually use this $140 toward any future bill if I come back later for this issue) and Decided to order a new accumulator online or a used ABS actuator assembly online so I can do the replacement myself. I will start with the cheapest option 1st and don't mind going through the replace procedure multiple times.

7. The Unexpected happened: On my way driving back home from the dealership, my 4R was whining/squeaking/buzzing as usual. But after about 5 miles of driving, the noise all the sudden miraculously stopped!! I thought it's just temporary but after 4 days of extensive or aggressive drivings, I am convinced that the technician who performed the diagnosis have "accidentally" made the noise go away. My brake is as good, as effective, as confident as before. Crossing my fingers...

Speculation:

The technician at the dealership must have done something during the diagnostic procedures to make the noise go away. I could think of two steps he may have performed during the 1 hour work: bleed the brake fluid again and re-set the ECU to just root out these two obvious possibilities with his own expert hands. It might be the ECU freaked out in my case so it keeps sending signals/commands to charge up the accumulator constantly. What else he may have done? It doesn't make too much sense to a logic mind, but doesn't matter at all as long as the issue is resolved and as long as it doesn't come back any time soon.

Well, that's my real experience with this "expensive" problem "resolved" for $150 ($140 diagnosis fee + $10 parts I never used). This is a rare case where a "formal diagnosis" may actually solve the problem being diagnosed. Lucky me, it actually saved all the toils I have planned to go through myself with the repair work in the coming weekend. Hope it helps. Good luck to all.

If you order a Mini VCI cable (only $20 online) and install Techstream you can look at the accumulator pressure and even chart out when the accumulator pump runs.

I was having an issue with mine and could see that the booster motor cycles until the accumulator voltage reaches 3.8V. The booster motor will automatically run once the accumulator voltage drops to 3.2V.

Having realtime accumulator voltages was very handy for diagnosing my issue. Also, the ability to bleed the system with Techstream is awesome.

Save yourself even more money next go around by ordering the cable and installing techstream. The technician likely only did the steps I just listed.
 
Great idea, Mar5168! I will certainly do that in case this problem resurfaces. Thanks for your technical insights and advice.
 
If you order a Mini VCI cable (only $20 online) and install Techstream you can look at the accumulator pressure and even chart out when the accumulator pump runs.

I was having an issue with mine and could see that the booster motor cycles until the accumulator voltage reaches 3.8V. The booster motor will automatically run once the accumulator voltage drops to 3.2V.

Having realtime accumulator voltages was very handy for diagnosing my issue. Also, the ability to bleed the system with Techstream is awesome.

Save yourself even more money next go around by ordering the cable and installing techstream. The technician likely only did the steps I just listed.

in the same boat, bought the techstream, yet to install.
could you help me with the steps in bleeding with the techstream
 
in the same boat, bought the techstream, yet to install.
could you help me with the steps in bleeding with the techstream

Aboslutely, launch Techstream select "connect to vehicle" once connected double click on "ABS/VSC" wait for it to load, select "utility" from the sidebar and then select "Air Bleeding."

Techstream will walk you through the steps from there.
 

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