Brake Accumulator/Master Cylinder Replacement-Squeal Fix

Adding my experience with this issue.

Context: One day, the firewall just started making this squeal noise. Every 5 seconds. It was constant. Had to do my investigation on this system and issue since I am new to Toyota. Ended up trying a temporary fix that worked for a few months. Issue was from the brake master area.
Removed the accumulator and replaced the pipe, spring, and o-ring. This solved for the squeal.

The sound came back, so I gave in and found a brake pump part brand new for $700ish. My plan was to swap just this part rather than paying $1800 for the whole Brake Master Assy itself.

I followed a thread on here for removal of brake master assy that helped a lot. I found out that the brake system had been worked on previously due to the rounded brake fittings to the master cylinder. I had to buy a very specific flare nut wrench brand “SK Tool”. Since this tool gets great reviews for fitment to nut from Jeep owners. The harbor freight ones were too sloppy.
Even more evidence of previous work was the 4 nuts securing the assy to the firewall. The top right nut was missing. Well damn that sucks lol. Luckily, I pulled back the front carpet and there it was. A lazy tech just left it there.
Once I was able to remove the four brake fittings, three 12v connectors, 4 nuts and clevis brake pin and clip, the assy came out with some finesse.
Swapping over the new hydroboost pump is straight forward. I also purchased a new brake line from the hydroboost pump to master cylinder (red wrapped brake line). The old one was super rusty.
Be very careful when swapping over the +/- terminals for the pump as the Philips head that secures the terminals is easy to strip.

Once I swapped the pump over, I installed everything back (ensure you hand start your brake fittings) and topped off the brake fluid. I turned the key to on and heard the pump prime. No more squeal noise.
But once I stepped on the pedal to move the car to another location, it squealed again. At this point, it came back and was constant again. I decided I would have to buy a whole brake assy after this.

I was not too happy and told my wife to help me with bleeding the brakes. We bled the brakes in the rear and found some chunks of rust in the lines. The squeal went away after this. Once I bled the rears, and then fronts, the squeal is no longer there, and the pedal feels great. I am not sure if the clogged lines were the culprit of the constant activation of the pump, or maybe this is a temporary fix. Either way, if I need a new brake master assy, I know the process in changing it out now.
 
So I have had the squeal/buzz for a few years now
Today I got the lights on and the alarm and low to no brakes
I can hear the abs pump activate and the buzz from the accumulator
Should I replace the pump or should I go for a whole new used assembly
Any help is appreciated

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
So i replaced the pump and now cant get any pressure through the brake lines when bleeding

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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Welp. Add me to the list. :(

My 4th gen intermittently started squealing from the MC as well. It was doing the squeal in March then just quit and stayed quiet but came back the other day. Actually, it did it pretty persistently the other day driving home about every 10 - 15 seconds when I wasn't braking. The next morning before I started it, I pumped the brakes about 20 times and the squeal hasn't come back but I know eventually it will. My daughter will most likely be driving this 4th gen here in a few months so I'll probably replace it before then.

My neighbors GX470 MC went out 2 months ago. I wish Toyota would issue a recall on this!
 
Finally got around to replacing the entire MC. Ordered the complete unit from Sparks Parts in SC, as they had the best price I could find, plus I've ordered several parts from them over the years and I've always had good luck with them. Wanted to get this replaced ASAP since I still drive this 4th gen some but more importantly, my daughter will be driving it mostly from here out. Pretty straight forward as MC replacements go. Had my teenagers help me bleed the brakes and now the brakes feel almost better than new.
 
Adding my experience with this issue.

Context: One day, the firewall just started making this squeal noise. Every 5 seconds. It was constant. Had to do my investigation on this system and issue since I am new to Toyota. Ended up trying a temporary fix that worked for a few months. Issue was from the brake master area.
Removed the accumulator and replaced the pipe, spring, and o-ring. This solved for the squeal.

The sound came back, so I gave in and found a brake pump part brand new for $700ish. My plan was to swap just this part rather than paying $1800 for the whole Brake Master Assy itself.

I followed a thread on here for removal of brake master assy that helped a lot. I found out that the brake system had been worked on previously due to the rounded brake fittings to the master cylinder. I had to buy a very specific flare nut wrench brand “SK Tool”. Since this tool gets great reviews for fitment to nut from Jeep owners. The harbor freight ones were too sloppy.
Even more evidence of previous work was the 4 nuts securing the assy to the firewall. The top right nut was missing. Well damn that sucks lol. Luckily, I pulled back the front carpet and there it was. A lazy tech just left it there.
Once I was able to remove the four brake fittings, three 12v connectors, 4 nuts and clevis brake pin and clip, the assy came out with some finesse.
Swapping over the new hydroboost pump is straight forward. I also purchased a new brake line from the hydroboost pump to master cylinder (red wrapped brake line). The old one was super rusty.
Be very careful when swapping over the +/- terminals for the pump as the Philips head that secures the terminals is easy to strip.

Once I swapped the pump over, I installed everything back (ensure you hand start your brake fittings) and topped off the brake fluid. I turned the key to on and heard the pump prime. No more squeal noise.
But once I stepped on the pedal to move the car to another location, it squealed again. At this point, it came back and was constant again. I decided I would have to buy a whole brake assy after this.

I was not too happy and told my wife to help me with bleeding the brakes. We bled the brakes in the rear and found some chunks of rust in the lines. The squeal went away after this. Once I bled the rears, and then fronts, the squeal is no longer there, and the pedal feels great. I am not sure if the clogged lines were the culprit of the constant activation of the pump, or maybe this is a temporary fix. Either way, if I need a new brake master assy, I know the process in changing it out now.

Wanted to update my experience on this ordeal.

After replacing the accumulator and pump for $700. The noise ended up coming back around May. I ordered a new brake master cylinder piston for $66 from Japan. I replaced this piston rod and the sound went away again for one month. The sound returns around June and I realize that the seals on the master cylinder must be the culprit.

Coughed up $1100 for a new brake master cylinder. I figured it was time. Total spent has been about $1800-900. The only great thing from all of this is I can take out my master cylinder fairly quickly now lol. If Is spent the original $1800 for the new assembly, I could have been done with it.

Also, just an FYI, you can clear the TRAC and anti slip lights yourself when you replace the master cylinder. Look for the zero point calibration method here online. It will guide you on how to recalibrate the system to avoid going to the dealer.
 
About to take on this job once I order the MC

About to take on this job after I order the MC. I'm pretty sure this is the culprit as my brakes seemed to be holding pressure, then loose pressure, and "Skip down" then get pressure again. I have brake, VSC, and ABS lights on as well. The truck brakes straight and doesn't pull to either side of the road. After letting the truck sit for 2 weeks and not driving it, there is very little brake pressure. No leaks in the system, and the reservoir is full. Before I spend a lot of money on an MC, is this most likely the issue? I know this thread is old but maybe somebody has some advice.
 
About to take on this job after I order the MC. I'm pretty sure this is the culprit as my brakes seemed to be holding pressure, then loose pressure, and "Skip down" then get pressure again. I have brake, VSC, and ABS lights on as well. The truck brakes straight and doesn't pull to either side of the road. After letting the truck sit for 2 weeks and not driving it, there is very little brake pressure. No leaks in the system, and the reservoir is full. Before I spend a lot of money on an MC, is this most likely the issue? I know this thread is old but maybe somebody has some advice.

First and foremost pull the codes so that you know where to start the diagnosing process!

from what I recall, there is a pressurized tank/accumulator, a motor, a reservoir and a valve body where the ABS solenoids live. I wonder if your accumulator diaphragm sprung a leak and the pressure isn't holding? I don't think this part is sold by toyota but I wonder if another accumulator from another vehicle would work? The pump motor has two brushes and I think two bearings. When they're failing, they'll make some sort of a noise.
 
First and foremost pull the codes so that you know where to start the diagnosing process!

from what I recall, there is a pressurized tank/accumulator, a motor, a reservoir and a valve body where the ABS solenoids live. I wonder if your accumulator diaphragm sprung a leak and the pressure isn't holding? I don't think this part is sold by toyota but I wonder if another accumulator from another vehicle would work? The pump motor has two brushes and I think two bearings. When they're failing, they'll make some sort of a noise.

You can buy a new OEM accumulator but they are around $375 to $450, I have heard that for some it was just the accumulator O-ring was leaking, you can also buy the electric motor/accumulator/pump assembly for around $750, but the entire master cylinder ABS assembly can be had for little under $1400, which is the route I took because needed it done quickly and correctly as it my daily driver and I didn't want to R&R the master cylinder more than once just throwing parts at it if the first attempt failed, and I would never know when any part not replaced may fail in the future, now it's good for another 200,000 miles, it was well worth the cost to me not worry about it any longer.

Various parts of the assembly, this is for my 2004 other years maybe a different part number/s.

2004 Toyota 4Runner Parts - ToyotaPartsDeal.com

Entire master cylinder ABS assembly for a 2004.

47050-60080 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder)
 
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Thanks for the response. I actually ended up taking it to a shop because I couldn't confidently diagnose it and didn't want to start throwing expensive parts at it. Turns out it ended up being a damaged ABS tone ring piece on the wheel hub. The shop thinks the wheel speed sensor couldn't read a speed in the rear right, so whenever I would hit the brakes, the ABS would have a huge fit. I was fairly confident it felt like the pedal was losing pressure, but since they put a new wheel speed sensor, wheel bearing, and recalibrated all the systems I haven't had the issue anymore. It's been about 2 weeks with the car back, and at first I thought it was doing it every so often, but I haven't noticed it at all this week, so I guess that was the issue.
 
It looks like my motor/pump has started this journey :( Does this sound like the problem in its beginning phases? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tG8BDsXHWdY

Yes, it sounds like the electric motor/accumulator/pump assembly is about shot, time to replace that assembly, mine failed completely, but I chose to replace the entire master cylinder/ABS assembly with a new OEM assembly, I installed it myself so I saved a lot by not paying someone else that labor.

I found the best prices at an online Toyota dealer....ToyotaPartsDeal, don't buy the parts at a Toyota dealer in person or you'll pay full price, all of them sell for much less if ordered online.
 
Yes, it sounds like the electric motor/accumulator/pump assembly is about shot, time to replace that assembly, mine failed completely, but I chose to replace the entire master cylinder/ABS assembly with a new OEM assembly, I installed it myself so I saved a lot by not paying someone else that labor.

I found the best prices at an online Toyota dealer....ToyotaPartsDeal, don't buy the parts at a Toyota dealer in person or you'll pay full price, all of them sell for much less if ordered online.

Yeah it seems that way I just need to take care of it. I found this one pretty cheap with 25% off its about 1k with free shipping Brake Master Cylinder Assembly with Fluid #47050-60081 | Autoparts.toyota.com

Oddly enough I just started it to get the AC going while I worked on the inside a bit and it never happened, so its definitely intermittent.

Is it abnormal for the booster to just cycle on/off when idle in park? I'm guessing they all start this way, then eventually the motor gives out and gives the very loud screeching sound?
 
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...Is it abnormal for the booster to just cycle on/off when idle in park? I'm guessing they all start this way, then eventually the motor gives out and gives the very loud screeching sound?

It's normal for the booster pump to run at key on. It is also normal for the booster to run while driving but not a lot. Sometimes, I will drive for a couple of hours and not notice the booster pump running. If you think the booster pump is running all the time, then there is likely a problem. Pump will wear out prematurely and yes, you get the screeching sound.
 
If I'm only sometimes getting the chirp do I have some time to get some cash for the assembly or is this something I should get fixed ASAP? It seems to be cycling every 12-15 seconds.

Thanks!
 
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If I'm only sometimes getting the chirp do I have some time to get some cash for the assembly or is this something I should get fixed ASAP? It seems to be cycling every 12-15 seconds.

Thanks!

That price is about the best deal you're going to find.

Normal function should be the pump starts when you turn the ignition on and run for 10 to 15 seconds as it builds up the pressure and again about every 3 depressions of the brake pedal, otherwise it shouldn't run.

If you're hearing it run that often without pressing the brakes several times, you're on borrowed time and it could fail completely at any time, if that happens the brake warning light should come on possibly along with an alarm, the brake pedal will go almost to the floor and be a hard as a rock, you will have to push the pedal very hard to even get a little bit of braking, if this happens while driving I suggest to use downshifting to help slow down while also pressing the brake pedal hard and to help come to a complete stop use the parking brake when you get almost stopped, using the parking brake takes a little practice since you have to press it a second time to release it, I suggest trying it a few times before any brake failure because you want have time to think about doing it when the time comes, you just need to react, try and not overuse the parking brake or you'll wear it out and have to replace the shoes.

That all being said I would replace it sooner than later!!
 
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The motor in the ABS system is a simple motor with brushes and bearings. You're probably hearing the bearings giving up the ghost. If you can afford the downtime, separate the motor from the whole unit, then take apart the motor on the bench. Once you find the bearing part number, or simply measure the bearing, then get replacements. Try not to get them from Amazon, but find a reputable bearing source online or local. You want quality japanese or USA bearings here, not chinese garbage. if the brushes are worn, then get some generic replacements. This could be a brushless motor but I'm not really sure.

YouTube has lots of videos on how to take apart simple motors for bearing and brush replacements. It's not rocket science, but it does scare people.

What's the worse that can happen? Your motor already sounds crappy!!! I don't have a lot of money so I try to DIY most things with the help of the internet.
 
Lothriel, your link above is the store. In that link you can choose either the Brake Booster Pump Assy for $1411 or the Brake Master Cyl for $1327. Which part did you order for $1040?
 

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