Brake pad and rotor replacement that I recommend....

[WEAK_E90]

I hate the brakes on 5th gen 4 runners. I drove a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles and was wondering why my 4 runner brakes don't feel like the Tacoma's brakes?

I have been looking at Stop Tech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS brake pads, and I am still looking for a good set of stainless front and rear brake lines to fix these mini van like brakes.

ive had the slotted stoptech kit with pads in my cart all week... Dealership mentioned I need replacements.

I had stoptechs on my bmw and past cars and loved them.

 

[Crocket]

Brake Lube

What kind/brand of brake lube is everyone using? I haven't had a lot of luck with brake lube (for greasing the slide pins etc...). Either it dries out or swells the rubber seals. I was thinking of using this next:

Permatex 24129 Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant

Thanks.

 

[GripT4R]

lube attracts dirt, which causes issues.

I have never used lube on the back of brake pads, or slide pins. Never once had an issue. I have never seen anyone, or heard of anyone at the race track using lube on slide pins either.

 

[Wizzard]

I tracked my 14 Mustang GT on a road course in HPDE track days multiple times a year from October 2016 to February 2019.

You know what I never saw on a single daily driven track car, or high end race cars? blank rotors.(non slotted or drilled)

Nearly EVERYONE uses a 2pc floating rotor with an aluminum hat, and the rings are slotted, or cross drilled, or both. Why? Because they are an effective heat sink. Blank rotors crack in a few laps because they absorb heat and cannot get rid of it efficiently. Whish is why slotted rotors, and 2pc rotors exist.

My 14 GT had slotted rotors, and I used G-LOC R12 race compound pads at the track, and G-Loc GS-1 pads on the street which are a compound for autocross that work from ambient temp to 1,200.

It is proven that street style performance brake pad will out perform OEM style pads in almost every single way (except maybe dust).

Please stop spreading misinformation, someone may need this thread in the future.

Misinformation?? Take your rookie Mustang back to your 2 car garage and come with me in the pits to some National level pro events with multi million dollar sponsorships. Next you're going to tell me you can't use anything but 0-20 oil in a 5th gen.

 

[GripT4R]

Misinformation?? Take your rookie Mustang back to your 2 car garage and come with me in the pits to some National level pro events with multi million dollar sponsorships. Next you're going to tell me you can't use anything but 0-20 oil in a 5th gen.

Yes....let the butthurt flow through you.

 

[Crocket]

lube attracts dirt, which causes issues.

I have never used lube on the back of brake pads, or slide pins. Never once had an issue. I have never seen anyone, or heard of anyone at the race track using lube on slide pins either.

They come lubed though from the factory. The dealer uses lube on the slide pins too during servicing. Do you mean you don't touch them up during servicing? Or there is no lube on your slide pins at all?

FYI I don't lubricate the back of the pads or spring clips etc... either.

 

[USKTog]

I have 145K on my 2014 ORP and am still on stock rotors/pads. Last service (140K), my pads were still in the yellow zone.

That said, I am starting to look at options for replacement, to perhaps improve overall braking capability.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

I tracked my 14 Mustang GT on a road course in HPDE track days multiple times a year from October 2016 to February 2019.

You know what I never saw on a single daily driven track car, or high end race cars? blank rotors.(non slotted or drilled)

Nearly EVERYONE uses a 2pc floating rotor with an aluminum hat, and the rings are slotted, or cross drilled, or both. Why? Because they are an effective heat sink. Blank rotors crack in a few laps because they absorb heat and cannot get rid of it efficiently. Whish is why slotted rotors, and 2pc rotors exist.

My 14 GT had slotted rotors, and I used G-LOC R12 race compound pads at the track, and G-Loc GS-1 pads on the street which are a compound for autocross that work from ambient temp to 1,200.

It is proven that street style performance brake pad will out perform OEM style pads in almost every single way (except maybe dust).

Please stop spreading misinformation, someone may need this thread in the future.

Drilled rotors are much more prone to cracking.

 

[tm965]

Yes....let the butthurt flow through you.

sounds like some lube will be needed for that butthurt

 

[CutthroatSlam]

I hate the brakes on 5th gen 4 runners. I drove a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles and was wondering why my 4 runner brakes don't feel like the Tacoma's brakes?

I have been looking at Stop Tech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS brake pads, and I am still looking for a good set of stainless front and rear brake lines to fix these mini van like brakes.

Same brakes, two different vehicles with substantial weight difference between them. Comparing them is apples to oranges. Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are pretty damn good.

I have a 1999 K2500 4wd Diesel Suburban and the vehicle was horribly under braked. Pads on the front would wear out within 15K to 20K when driving up and down to our 2nd home up at Big Bear Lake (6,750'). I did a conversion to the next generation GM trucks front brakes with giant dual piston calipers and giant pads. Raybestos Advanced technology slotted rotors and Advanced Technology pads. Night and day difference in stopping power and pad wear.

On the 2014 4Runner the OEM Rotors warped at about 80K. I put Power Stop Extreme Performance drilled and slotted on the front of the 2014 4Runner. They warped within 20K miles. That said, I've had great success with Power Stop drilled and slotted on my Honda Accord, replacing cracked OEM rotors.

I installed AC Delco Severe Duty non-slotted on the 4Runner, only because the slotted were not available at Rockauto (BTW Raybestos Advanced Technology are the same rotor, same manufacturer) and they're still going strong with about 70K miles of use and no warping. These are the only rotors I recommend and were using the vehicle on extreme mountain grades where substandard rotors constantly warp under my wife's driving.

I always use Raybestos Advanced Technology pads.

 

[GripT4R]

Drilled rotors are much more prone to cracking.

That is correct, yet they are still more common than blank rotors on the track.

 

[GripT4R]

Same brakes, two different vehicles with substantial weight difference between them. Comparing them is apples to oranges. Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are pretty damn good.


When the OEM Rotors warped at about 80K, I put Power Stop Extreme Performance drilled and slotted on the front of the 2014 4Runner. They warped within 20K miles. That said, I've had great success with Power Stop drilled and slotted on my Honda Accord, replacing cracked OEM rotors.

I installed AC Delco Severe Duty non-slotted on the 4Runner, only because the slotted were not available at Rockauto (BTW Raybestos Advanced Technology are the same rotor, same manufacturer) and they're still going strong with about 70K miles of use and no warping. These are the only rotors I recommend and were using the vehicle on extreme mountain grades where substandard rotors constantly warp under my wife's driving.

How does the vehicles weight translate to pedal feel?

Isn't there only 200lbs +/- difference between the two vehicles? That wouldn't be enough weight difference to see the kind of difference I feel between a brand new 2019 4Runner with 500 miles, and a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles.


Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are garbage.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

How does the vehicles weight translate to pedal feel?

Isn't there only 200lbs +/- difference between the two vehicles? That wouldn't be enough weight difference to see the kind of difference I feel between a brand new 2019 4Runner with 500 miles, and a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles.


Frankly, the 4Runner brakes are garbage.

You've been proven to not know what you're talking about.

 

[GripT4R]

You've been proven to not know what you're talking about.

Explain to me how a 200lb +/- weight difference between two trucks translates to a firmer pedal feel in the lighter truck, and a softer pedal in the heavier truck.

So you are telling me if I put a 200lb passenger in the lighter truck, the pedal will be softer?


Magically the hydraulic system will change due to a weight difference....


You've proven nothing...

 

[rb92673]

That is correct, yet they are still more common than blank rotors on the track.

I don't see a lot of 4Runners on the track. Different use case and many of those cars were designed with drilled rotors.

I was not happy with stock pads, as I had what felt like warped rotors early on in their life, and was most likely uneven pad deposits on the rotors. I am happy with the Akebonos and Centric rotors after about 10,000 miles which includes about 1,000 miles of towing a race car which weighs 5,000# on a trailer.

 

[GripT4R]

I don't see a lot of 4Runners on the track. Different use case and many of those cars were designed with drilled rotors.

I was not happy with stock pads, as I had what felt like warped rotors early on in their life, and was most likely uneven pad deposits on the rotors. I am happy with the Akebonos and Centric rotors after about 10,000 miles which includes about 1,000 miles of towing a race car which weighs 5,000# on a trailer.

Thanks, but I think you may have missed the first half of the discussion.

 

[rb92673]

Thanks, but I think you may have missed the first half of the discussion.

Not trying to start a flame war here and I am not trying to attack you.

There is nothing wrong with blank rotors. My 24 Hours of Lemons race car and many dedicated race cars do just fine on solid vented rotors. I have done 24 hours straight multiple times without cracking a rotor. These races eat through normal pads like crazy and generate tons of heat, real race pads and race brake fluid are required.

Most of the times I have seen cracked rotors at races is when drilled rotors have been used on a car that originally came with blank rotors. This car is less than 3000# and 30+ years old, it does not go off road and it does not tow, so it is not a fair comparison to a 4Runner.

When I tow I worry about heat buildup going down grades in the 4Runner. I have never felt any fade with the stock brakes or the Akebono/Centric combo. Time will tell if this combo will last as long or longer than stock, which was less than 45,000 miles for me. I have never cared for the pedal feel either.

I have no experience with slotted combo or similar that you have suggested. Please try them and report back to the community your experience with them. Lot's of people like Stop Tech and Hawk, they seem like a good product. I am going to guess that it will not change the pedal feel much as I think most of that comes from the brake booster.

 

[Wizzard]

Speaking of drilled rotors... the ones you get off the shelf (online) are garbage compared to what real race cars use which are ones built at the molecular level (carbon) and the holes are formed with the rotor (no drilling involved). Drilled rotors tend to crack at the holes, why real race cars don't use "drilled" rotors.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

I just did mine. New Raybestos calipers on the front, Akebono pads front, Wagner semi metallics rear. Centric rotors all around. Stops much more consistently than stock. No more of that crap where the brakes all of a sudden kick in at 1/2 pedal semi-panic stop and the ABS does too.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

These Rotors:

More Information for RAYBESTOS 980160PER

More Information for ACDELCO 18A1615SD

These Pads:

More Information for RAYBESTOS SP976TRH

I'm sure Akebono's are fine, but I will note that the firm is currently in the Japanese form of bankruptcy reorganization. They lost their contract with GM which accounted for 1/3 of their revenue.