Brake pedal almost to floor before starting to work

[alaskafisherman]

So... on my lifted 97 4runner sr5 v6 auto, After i put the lift on i almost instantly had the pedal go almost to the floor before starting to stop and usually have to press again to stop. I figured i must have over extended the rear brake hose causing the liner to rip so i replaced it sunday and then bled all the brakes. No change feeled exactly like it did before.

Today i bought a brand new not rebuilt master cylinder and bench bled it then installed it and bled everything according to vehicle specs. No change once again.

Pre lift it got all new rear brake shoes and hardware and last week it got new rotors. Pads are at 75%.

I dont know what to do. my fav local shop wants $200 just to take a look.. and les schwab just sucks when it has come to working on my vehicles and they still want $100+ to take a look.

Any Idea's.

Thanks in Advance

 

[slides]

There are no drips or leaks anywhere that you can see. How is the resorvior level.

 

[alaskafisherman]

There are no drips or leaks anywhere that you can see. How is the resorvior level.

No leaks whatsoever. I completely flushed system after changin rear hose too and level stays

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Adjust your rear brake shoes properly. Adjust the star adjusters so you hear slight rubbing on drum when spinning wheel and then use your e-brake often to finish the adjustment.

There should be a fsm procedure for properly adjusting the rear brake shoe tension.

Does your e-Brake work?

 

[alaskafisherman]

Adjust your rear brake shoes properly. Adjust the star adjusters so you hear slight rubbing on drum when spinning wheel and then use your e-brake often to finish the adjustment.

There should be a fsm procedure for properly adjusting the rear brake shoe tension.

Does your e-Brake work?

no the e brake doesnt work. its one of those things i havent felt like messing with. i will try adjusting the rear shoes. thanks for the advice

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Fix your ebrake too while it's all apart. The operation of the Ebrake will try and advance the star adjuster and keep proper adjustment.

 

[Doc2012]

Based on the Sx you're describing, you didn't bleed the brakes right.

You can get a "Power Bleeder", or you can get a buddy to come over and help and get it done in about an hour.


It takes a little bit on these trucks to get the brakes bled right.

 

[mtbtim]

Doc2012 may be correct. Your symptoms sound like there's air in your brake lines. Another possibility is maybe there's another line that got kinked from the lift that you haven't noticed yet.

This is how I've bled brakes in the past with the help of a friend:

I get some plastic tubing that will fit over the bleeder valve and a container to catch the fluid. I have a buddy pump the brakes a few times until the pedal is firm and have them hold pressure. I crack the bleeder on one of the brakes until a steady stream of fluid comes out and then I close the bleeder. When you crack the bleeder, the brake pedal will go to the floor. Your buddy needs to hold the pedal to the floor until you've closed the bleeder and told them to release the pedal. If they release it before you close the bleeder, you get air back into the line. I repeat this a few times at every wheel until I'm satisfied all the air is out. Make sure to be checking and adding fluid in the master cylinder while you are doing this so it doesn't run dry and you have to start all over.

Hope you get your issue resolved. Good luck!

 

[alaskafisherman]

Based on the Sx you're describing, you didn't bleed the brakes right.

You can get a "Power Bleeder", or you can get a buddy to come over and help and get it done in about an hour.


It takes a little bit on these trucks to get the brakes bled right.

I used a power bleeder. I know how to correctly bleed brakes, i do wonder if theres anyway a line could be leaking air in but not fluid out. Doesnt seem possible

 

[BlackRustBucket]

Mine did something like that when one of the brake shoes on the rear wasn't seated properly on the bottom right after I replaced them and it over extended the top, but mine blew the seal on the piston actuator when it over extended and bled everywhere. Just something to check

 

[Doc2012]

I used a power bleeder. I know how to correctly bleed brakes, i do wonder if theres anyway a line could be leaking air in but not fluid out. Doesnt seem possible

Not doubting your skill, but if you've replaced the MC, and you're still getting soft pedal like that, then there's still air in the lines somewhere, unless it's a messed up pad/shoe, or rotor/drum.

But, you said it was fine before you put the lift on, so that kind of rules out the shoes/ pads, unless you did something to them when you were doing the lift.

My bet is air in the lines, or the ABS pump.

 

[alaskafisherman]

Not doubting your skill, but if you've replaced the MC, and you're still getting soft pedal like that, then there's still air in the lines somewhere, unless it's a messed up pad/shoe, or rotor/drum.

But, you said it was fine before you put the lift on, so that kind of rules out the shoes/ pads, unless you did something to them when you were doing the lift.

My bet is air in the lines, or the ABS pump.

took it to les schwab where they could bleed it the old fashioned way and they got some more air out of the master cylinder by re bench bleeding it, then they found that the rear shoes were also way out of adjustment. ended up fixing it wooo hoooo.:guitar2:

thanks for the help everyone!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Usually it's rear shoes out of adjustment when pedal feels good after it travels farther before pressure is felt. Spongy all the time is air.

Fix your ebrake and use it and brakes will stay nice and firm.