Brake Wear
- Thread starter sport2004
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If it's really 2mm then it sounds like it's time. You can pull the wheels off and check yourself, or maybe check by feel without removing the wheel.
New brake fluid is a good idea. It absorbs water which lowers the boiling point and can contribute to corrosion. The system is not perfectly sealed since some water can make its waw past the caliper seals
If you're not having any problems with vibration while braking the rotors might not need to be turned, but non-turned rotors might not work as well as they should with new pads. I left mine alone when I changed my pads, and I've had a slight squeaking from the rear when I brake lightly. I don't know if that's related. And now, 10,000 miles later I'm getting bad vibration while braking, but I don't think that's caused by not turning the rotors when I changed the pads since that was over a year ago.
Rotors don't usually warp:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
I'm skeptical that the rears need replacing, but it's possible.
New brake fluid is a good idea. It absorbs water which lowers the boiling point and can contribute to corrosion. The system is not perfectly sealed since some water can make its waw past the caliper seals
If you're not having any problems with vibration while braking the rotors might not need to be turned, but non-turned rotors might not work as well as they should with new pads. I left mine alone when I changed my pads, and I've had a slight squeaking from the rear when I brake lightly. I don't know if that's related. And now, 10,000 miles later I'm getting bad vibration while braking, but I don't think that's caused by not turning the rotors when I changed the pads since that was over a year ago.
Rotors don't usually warp:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
I'm skeptical that the rears need replacing, but it's possible.
sport2004
Member
Thanks for the comments, appreciate it.
I looked at the rotors, one side, on the lift. The rear do have some waves in them, the front are fairly smooth. I have had no issues driving, smooth as silk and quiet thus far. Also, I learned how to use brakes when I was a teen and have it down to an art, get crazy mileage out of the pads, but this is a used vehicle I picked up 10K miles ago.
When I got the written record, the front are marked 4mm, rear 2mm. To do the rear cost-wise, 2 hours @$125.00 per, 2 rotors @ $135.00 each, can't read what the number is for rear pads, but I'm sure about double aftermarket of approx $50.00 a pair. No number for new fluid. So, for the rear I'm estimating conservatively about $820.00...:wow:
Think I'll check around a little bit. Will say warranty of 1 year parts and labor is not shabby.
ZebRuaj
New member
Are you hearing the indicators/squealing when you brake? I've never taken pad measurements. Just changed pads according to feel and sounds.
I've also never turned rotors. If they look good and have had no prior problems, I just swap pads and bed them in. If the rotors are shot or too thin, then spend a few extra bucks and get new rotor blanks.
Fluid flush can be tedious, but get a buddy (wife) to help pump. Or do it the lazy way and just syringe fluid out of the reservoir periodically til it looks clean.
You threw a bunch of dollar signs in there, but I skimmed it over since brakes are the next DIY thing one learns, right after learning how to change the oil.
I've also never turned rotors. If they look good and have had no prior problems, I just swap pads and bed them in. If the rotors are shot or too thin, then spend a few extra bucks and get new rotor blanks.
Fluid flush can be tedious, but get a buddy (wife) to help pump. Or do it the lazy way and just syringe fluid out of the reservoir periodically til it looks clean.
You threw a bunch of dollar signs in there, but I skimmed it over since brakes are the next DIY thing one learns, right after learning how to change the oil.
nevada
Senior Member
what is the question?
2mm is pretty much nothing.
brake fluid should be flushed every 40-50k I believe. sooner if discolored from excessive heat/brake use. but, you really cant flush it too often.
it most likely is the reason. I see it VERY often.
its exactly as your link talks about. I think the issue with just slapping pads on, without resurfacing the rotors is not getting the exact same pad material. so it doesn't bed properly, and then you get pulsation.
I really do see it a lot. someone will come in with a pulsation complaint. "I recently had new brakes installed, and now its doing this" but when we check, you can clearly tell the rotors were not addressed. neither resurfaced, nor replaced.
if the pads are being changed, at the minimum, the rotors need resurfaced if thick enough, or replaced if not.
the 2 surfaces wear together. it doesn't even make sense to replace one surface(pad) and not make sure the other surface(rotor) is flat, even and true, and without uneven friction material deposits.
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They were fine for the first 9,000 miles. The pads are softer than the rotors, so they will take on the same wear pattern fairly quickly. I believe the problem started when (or I first noticed it after) Brake Assist decided it needed to apply full ABS when I pressed the brakes a bit too quickly. I'll probably start another thread about my issue so we don't derail this one.
