Brakes stick??

1da4

New member
Its kinda hard to describe... if i just do a rolling stop and then continue going without completely stopping nothing is wrong. But if i come to a complete stop like at a stoplight, then when the light turns green i take my foot off the brake but dont start moving at all. Then i press the gas and i hear a... not really thud sound but almost like my brake pads are stuck to my rotors then once i start moving they get unstuck and then it drives normal. The fact that it drives normal afterwards tells me its not the transmission, it doesnt feel like that anyway. I'm 90% sure it has something to do with the brakes. My brakes are really touchy anyway. Anyone have an idea?
 
Register to hide this ad
Does it happen on Any kind of complete stop or just those that aren't light and ez? Driveline been lubed in last 30k?

You could test your rig on a lift. Luck! :banana:
 
Its kinda hard to describe... if i just do a rolling stop and then continue going without completely stopping nothing is wrong. But if i come to a complete stop like at a stoplight, then when the light turns green i take my foot off the brake but dont start moving at all. Then i press the gas and i hear a... not really thud sound but almost like my brake pads are stuck to my rotors then once i start moving they get unstuck and then it drives normal. The fact that it drives normal afterwards tells me its not the transmission, it doesnt feel like that anyway. I'm 90% sure it has something to do with the brakes. My brakes are really touchy anyway. Anyone have an idea?

Might have an axle seal gone bad and have gear oil on your rear shoes. I had an issue with the gear oil in the rear axle and seeped onto my rear brake shoes and it doesnt take much to make them do exactly what you describe. Easiest way to check is to pull your drums off and visual look to see if it leaking.
 
Last edited:
When did you clean the rear brake dust inside the drums? Yeah.. like the previous poster stated, pull the drums out. If they are stuck, you can use long (about 2 inches or more) 12 mm bolts. There are two threaded bolts in each drum. Simply attach the 12 mm bolts into each hole and turn as you would tight a bolt. The bolt acts like a puller.
 
Thanks guys, I actually got scared it was the tranny and had a transmission guy inspect it, said it definitely was the rear brakes, so tonight im going to pull the drums off and take a look, i dont know what kind of service has been done because i just bought the truck a few weeks ago.
 
well... i took my rear drums apart, looked inside, and didnt see anything broken or out of the ordinary, so i cleaned them up some with an air hose, lightly went around the inside of the drum with a brillo pad, and put it back together. Works fine now.... I have no idea what was wrong.
 
Its kinda hard to describe... if i just do a rolling stop and then continue going without completely stopping nothing is wrong. But if i come to a complete stop like at a stoplight, then when the light turns green i take my foot off the brake but dont start moving at all. Then i press the gas and i hear a... not really thud sound but almost like my brake pads are stuck to my rotors then once i start moving they get unstuck and then it drives normal. The fact that it drives normal afterwards tells me its not the transmission, it doesnt feel like that anyway. I'm 90% sure it has something to do with the brakes. My brakes are really touchy anyway. Anyone have an idea?

This is exactly what I experienced a couple of years ago.
poleclimber63-albums-problem...-picture13282-rear-seal-failure.jpg
This is what developed about a week after this issue started happening. It was suggested, when it started I might have an ebrake actuator sticking (on the back of the drum brake backing plate. This happens they say, out East where rust is a problem. My seal failure took a week to become appearent. I'd keep an eye on it. It may only be one side.
 
My brakes would stick when it was like 16 degrees outside. Anyone had that happen ?go to put it in drive, which I have to apply the brake and the car doesnt want to move as if the wheels are glued. Goes away after brakes warm up.
 
Yes it was completely dry. And i will definitely be keeping an eye on it, already was planning on it. From what i have read, the ebrake seems to be a relatively frequent problem when stuff like this happens so I may have it checked out this weekend by someone that knows more than me haha.
 
well... i took my rear drums apart, looked inside, and didnt see anything broken or out of the ordinary, so i cleaned them up some with an air hose, lightly went around the inside of the drum with a brillo pad, and put it back together. Works fine now.... I have no idea what was wrong.

Did you notice the brake dust balling up or collecting in the drum? The reason I ask is when a small amount of gear oil soaked into my brake shoes, even though they were completely dry, after I cleaned them up and lightly sanded the shoes, shortly after driving around the problem would come back even though there wasn't a leak. Because of the small amount of oil soaked in, the brake dust would ball up and collect between the shoe and drum creating the same problem. Maybe your pads soaked up some oil and now they are wearing differently?

If the problem comes back, pull your drums again and inspect if dust is balling up. Might be your shoes. My problem started when I put redline full syn gear oil in my rear axle, leaked a small amount on the shoes so I went back to non syn and havent had a problem since. I did have to replace the shoes, but everything is back to norm.
 
Last edited:
Did you notice the brake dust balling up or collecting in the drum? The reason I ask is when a small amount of gear oil soaked into my brake shoes, even though they were completely dry, after I cleaned them up and lightly sanded the shoes, shortly after driving around the problem would come back even though there wasn't a leak. Because of the small amount of oil soaked in, the brake dust would ball up and collect between the shoe and drum creating the same problem. Maybe your pads soaked up some oil and now they are wearing differently?

If the problem comes back, pull your drums again and inspect if dust is balling up. Might be your shoes. My problem started when I put redline full syn gear oil in my rear axle, leaked a small amount on the shoes so I went back to non syn and havent had a problem since. I did have to replace the shoes, but everything is back to norm.

Thanks for the info. My pads are getting kinda low anyway so im probably just gonna take it somewhere and have a full brake job done on the back.
 
My first guess was soaked brake shoes(pads) because of axle seals going bad.
My second guess would be the slip joint/yoke going bad or needing lube
 
Update

Took it to Toyota service department today and they confirmed what we have all been thinking- both rear axle seals are bad and i need a brake system flush, new pads, and my drums turned. Total will be about $520.. yay
 
Glad I found this thread! My sister's T4R has gear oil all over the rear brake shoes and drums. I don't have a shop manual, but I want to replace the axle seals and brake components. I suspect this is a matter of pulling the axle, and replacing the seals.

Are the seals located at the outside of the axle?
Are there seals located at the differential?

How many seals per side are we talking?

Is there a DIY online for this?

thanks in advance!
mikey
 
Glad I found this thread! My sister's T4R has gear oil all over the rear brake shoes and drums. I don't have a shop manual, but I want to replace the axle seals and brake components. I suspect this is a matter of pulling the axle, and replacing the seals.

Are the seals located at the outside of the axle?
Are there seals located at the differential?

How many seals per side are we talking?

Is there a DIY online for this?

thanks in advance!
mikey

There is a lot to explain to be able to answer your questions. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html
 
Took it to Toyota service department today and they confirmed what we have all been thinking- both rear axle seals are bad and i need a brake system flush, new pads, and my drums turned. Total will be about $520.. yay


Hmmm

But you didn't see any gear oil inside or out? I always figured seals are good or bad and not a maintenance issue.

For others; I fought this one and it ends up being most likely bad wheel cylinders. Do yourself a favor if you start to have this problem and not seal leakage; Replace-, wheel cylinders, springs, shoes and turn or replace drums. Cost me about $75 and took 1/2 day, mostly shop work.

Of course it actually took weeks as I refused to believe it could be wheel cylinders! I still have never seen WC's fail and stick "open"…..

Utep
 
Hmmm

For others; I fought this one and it ends up being most likely bad wheel cylinders.
Utep

That exactly what mine were. I misheard the guy originally. And the reason the quote was so high is i had a couple other things done too. I coulda done it all myself but i just bought the truck and figured I'd leave it to the professionals for once (usually i do all my own shit) and just eat the bill. All seems good now. All has been replaced and so far no problems
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top