Braking shakes steering wheel?

S

Silvergrowler

New member
I need to dig around on here, but braking around town you feel a slight pulse. Well, today was the first time I had to do a sudden stop at highway speed (median caught on fire!) and when I hit the brakes the pulsing was bad, the steering wheel had a bad shake and the truck felt like it was a issue in the front left? (Maybe). Could this be a stuck caliper issue?
 
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Hal88 said:
Got the same issue....trying to decide if i should just turn the rotors or buy new ones.
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depends on how thick, and what condition they are in. most times Toyota rotors wear very well, and can be turned at least once, sometimes twice.
other brands aren't as good, and will wear along with the pads, or worse, rust away.
whoever you would have resurface them would be able to check.

as long as they are still thick enough, there's no reason to replace them.
 
Rotors don't warp, you've got excessive and uneven pad transfer. Cause - overheated brake pads, or just very cheap pads in general.

It's best to just replace the rotors (OE rotors are dirt cheap), and get some decent pads on it while you're at it. OEM Toyota pads are not that great for temp handling, as they prioritize low dust above all else.
 
RPS13 said:
Rotors don't warp, you've got excessive and uneven pad transfer. Cause - overheated brake pads, or just very cheap pads in general.

It's best to just replace the rotors (OE rotors are dirt cheap), and get some decent pads on it while you're at it. OEM Toyota pads are not that great for temp handling, as they prioritize low dust above all else.
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Here we go again. :redbrick:
 
Hal88 said:
Got the same issue....trying to decide if i should just turn the rotors or buy new ones.
Click to expand...

RPS13 said:
Rotors don't warp, you've got excessive and uneven pad transfer. Cause - overheated brake pads, or just very cheap pads in general.

It's best to just replace the rotors (OE rotors are dirt cheap), and get some decent pads on it while you're at it. OEM Toyota pads are not that great for temp handling, as they prioritize low dust above all else.
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curtis325 said:
Here we go again. :redbrick:
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i was going to say the same thing.
RPS13 said:
Everybody that knows anything about brakes (or about strength of materials in general) agrees with the statement.

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths



I won't get in an engineering "debate," but I suggest you actually read and learn from those who know far more about braking than you.
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quote from the site you quoting
"In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures."

or warped rotor.
 
Try to re-bed the pads??

Before you buy new rotor and pads, try to re-bed the pads (if not too old, I guess) and get an even layer of pad material to transfer. I read a post recently (I think it was an old post, though) where a member did this after a similar circumstance and eliminated his pulsating brakes.

Might fix your issue and won't cost you anything...

I just replaced my pads (fronts and rears) with Akebono ProActs. They are OEM equivalents. Got a good price from tire rack. They work awesome.
 
gshadow325 said:
i was going to say the same thing.


quote from the site you quoting
"In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures."

or warped rotor.
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The SYMPTOM is a rotor with runout variation out of spec, the CAUSE is the brake pads that are transferring uneven pad material.

THE ROTOR IS NOT WARPING in the sense that its structure is permanently distorting, so just replacing rotors does nothing to fix the problem.

I like Akebono ProACT pads as well. I'd just get some Centric rotors that are double disc ground (usually starts in the middle of the range line, so not their cheapest offering, but no need to go to the most expensive).

I used to recommend RockAuto for almost all parts, but their shipping has gotten outrageous over the past few years, so their pricing is sometimes out of line on a larger order at another place.
 
What is messed up? The rotor or the brake pad?

The rotor is the correct answer. You are stating the how it happened.

End result, rotor is messed up or common term. .. warped rotor.

Or in your world, brake pad material unevenly transferred to the brake rotor.

What ever, rotor is ****ed. OP you need new ones
 
BOTH are messed up, not just the rotor. As the pad will just do it again... and again.

"Warped rotor" is a total misnomer. I know it's commonly used, but it's not the right term for what's actually happening.

"Warped rotors" can be cleaned up as well with different types of brake pads, but nothing you would ever be able to buy for a 4Runner would do it. They're all too "rotor wear friendly."


I've probably gone through more brake components than most on this board, and I've found the only way people "get it" and stop having problems like this is to actually describe the problem and stop with the 50 year old, misused terminology.
 
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
Op your rotors are warped
 
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