Breaking bolts while removing skid plates

WiscoRunner

New member
Looking for some advice or options for reattaching my skids. I hit every bolt with PB Blaster etc for the last week and yet almost every bolt has snapped off. Just looking for options to:
a) reattach the skids
b) removing busted bolts
c) I've got two bolts "loosened" but they just spin. Started raining yesterday when I got to this point so I couldn't get in there to far to see what exactly is happening. The two bolts that are spinning seem to hold the rear portion of the front-most skid and the front of the middle skid.

The bolts that snapped, barely took any force at all with a hand ratchet. I honestly thought I just broke them free until the head came down in my socket...

Thanks!
 
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Yay. Another rust belt buddy.

I'd just snap them all off, then drill and tap new threads in and use new bolts.

And apply liberal amounts of anti-seize.
 
Pick up an M8 x 1.25 helicoil Kit, Tap wrench AND appropriate drill bit. I think it’s 21/64” but you will need to verify. Spent a weekend drilling out broken bolts and fixing the threads. Not fun. Only good news is the threads are now stronger than stock. USE EYE PROTECTION. Only thing worse than drilling out bolts is a corneal abrasion from drilling out bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SREP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7vU5Cb9XGCTHM
 

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The welds broke on the nuts in the frame for the ones that are spinning. Grind the heads off or use a cut off wheel. Drill out the broken bolts. The metal is soft so a good drill but makes quick work of the job. Do not use an "easy out"! Once you drill out the bolts use a punch and hammer to bust the weldnuts off and install plus nuts or rivnuts. I used m8 rivnuts this past weekend and installed all new hardware.
 
Had my front bolts snap right off after soaking in PB blaster for days. Metal zipties are my best friend as of now
 
I had a few snap off when removing the factory skids - was planning on using nutserts/rivnuts, but ended up being able to drill them out and re-tap the threads. Having it up on the lift was key to getting it done.

Started with a small drill bit and worked my way up basically one size at a time until most of the original bolt was gone, then ran a tap through it.

Used a liberal amount of antiseize on the new bolts.
 
Drill out and retap for larger bolts.. get all quality stainless.. bath yourself and everything you love in anti seize.. every time you touch your skid plate
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I've been tied up as far as time goes since I got all the fluids changed since getting the skids off. I'm hoping to get everything drilled out and plan on re-tapping and reinstalling the skids when I can do a full brake job here in the next week or two.

Anyone feel its worth maybe having the skids blasted and repainted while they're off or should I just get the major corrosion off and rattle can them with implement paint and call it good?
 
Anyone feel its worth maybe having the skids blasted and repainted while they're off or should I just get the major corrosion off and rattle can them with implement paint and call it good?

I've been wire brushing and topping off with rattle can on the skids as I see surface rust over the years. This spring, noticed a small fist size gap on one of the front skid corners from over winter. It finally thinned itself enough and gave out. Started looking at aftermarket solutions but I barely leave pavement.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I've been tied up as far as time goes since I got all the fluids changed since getting the skids off. I'm hoping to get everything drilled out and plan on re-tapping and reinstalling the skids when I can do a full brake job here in the next week or two.

Anyone feel its worth maybe having the skids blasted and repainted while they're off or should I just get the major corrosion off and rattle can them with implement paint and call it good?

Hit em with a wire brush n rattle can em. Not worth it to spend more on them, put it towards some aftermarket ones.
 
+1 on the tap & re-drill solution. For the rust, I'd scrape off the big "bubbly crusty" rust & then rattle-can it. You don't need to get down to clean metal... those skids are plenty thick. There used to be a Rust-Oleum rattle-can of Rusty Metal Primer that did wonders for me back when I lived in the Rust Belt. Dunno if it's still avail but maybe a similar product. I used that for painting over body rust, left it primered-only for a year in snowy/salty winter roads & it did fine. You could optionally follow it with rattle-can black paint but I personally wouldn't bother.
 

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