RandyBobandy
New member
Dedicated snow tires really are amazing, I run all terrains that do well enough in the snow but they are nothing compared to a dedicated snow tire. Even rear wheel drive cars are capable in the snow with the right tires
Brillos Builds
- Thread starter brillo_76
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Dedicated snow tires really are amazing, I run all terrains that do well enough in the snow but they are nothing compared to a dedicated snow tire. Even rear wheel drive cars are capable in the snow with the right tires
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes. I prefer to run mud and snow tires in the winter. Some winters are nasty here and sometimes they are mild. I am not in a snow belt area.
Years ago, I used to run around in 2wd Toyotas pickup trucks. I even ran studded on the rear axle for traction. They actually did half decent unless the snow got deep like 6 to 10 inches.
My old 91 dx Camry used to go until my bumper was pushing snow. I used to run studded snow tires on it too.
I actually drove the Camry in snow that was extremely deep. A freak storm dumped like 3ft in a small area about 45 minutes away. My uncle had no clue how I made it down the alley and parked in his parking pad. That snow was up to the bumper on the roads and 3ft in undisturbed areas. [ naturally I stayed on the roads]
With the 4wd. I dont need studs. With good tires they go very well in the snow.
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Years ago, I used to run around in 2wd Toyotas pickup trucks. I even ran studded on the rear axle for traction. They actually did half decent unless the snow got deep like 6 to 10 inches.
My old 91 dx Camry used to go until my bumper was pushing snow. I used to run studded snow tires on it too.
I actually drove the Camry in snow that was extremely deep. A freak storm dumped like 3ft in a small area about 45 minutes away. My uncle had no clue how I made it down the alley and parked in his parking pad. That snow was up to the bumper on the roads and 3ft in undisturbed areas. [ naturally I stayed on the roads]
With the 4wd. I dont need studs. With good tires they go very well in the snow.
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Ya. The technology that goes into a winter tire is just amazing for a guy who never had to deal with it on a yearly basis.
I believe the cars were bmw x1's. One was fwd with winter tires and the other was 4wd with summer tires.
I watched other winter vids seeing cars spin out on interstate and wondered why some cars didn't.
I always wondered why. Now I know, ha. Like I have said, I didn't know as I don't have to deal with this on a yearly basis...yet.
Who knows what the future brings.
RandyBobandy
New member
Yes. I prefer to run mud and snow tires in the winter. Some winters are nasty here and sometimes they are mild. I am not in a snow belt area.
Years ago, I used to run around in 2wd Toyotas pickup trucks. I even ran studded on the rear axle for traction. They actually did half decent unless the snow got deep like 6 to 10 inches.
My old 91 dx Camry used to go until my bumper was pushing snow. I used to run studded snow tires on it too.
I actually drove the Camry in snow that was extremely deep. A freak storm dumped like 3ft in a small area about 45 minutes away. My uncle had no clue how I made it down the alley and parked in his parking pad. That snow was up to the bumper on the roads and 3ft in undisturbed areas. [ naturally I stayed on the roads]
With the 4wd. I dont need studs. With good tires they go very well in the snow.
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What you forgot to mention is that Camry was lifted 15 inches on tons with studded 37s and two lockers lol
brillo_76
Elite Member
Actually just a dx Camry with some kind of traction control in it. One tire spin the other would grab. I even had a ECT button..
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Well. I suspecting the hoses were the cause as I pulled them off my parts mobile. Changed the rad a few weeks ago. My spring tension radiator clamps were seeping coolant. So I put the clamps I hate on to stop the seeps. 
Probably best every 200k to replace the radiator hoses and when you do replace the spring tension clamps. In this particular application. I am suspecting it's my used rad hoses that caused the seeps.
I deal with those at 300k as it time for replacement timing belt etc. As that is only 30k away now.
Do we get special stickers if our rigs have 300k on them? Asking for [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] as he likes the stickers. Lol.
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Probably best every 200k to replace the radiator hoses and when you do replace the spring tension clamps. In this particular application. I am suspecting it's my used rad hoses that caused the seeps.
I deal with those at 300k as it time for replacement timing belt etc. As that is only 30k away now.
Do we get special stickers if our rigs have 300k on them? Asking for [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] as he likes the stickers. Lol.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
When I put the rebuilt engine in my SR5 I bought all new coolant hoses and clamps. It wasn’t cheep at all.
Plus my oil cooler had all kinds of crud—coked oil in it. Was a bugger to flush out.
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Plus my oil cooler had all kinds of crud—coked oil in it. Was a bugger to flush out.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
I know in a few days if my radiator clamps are doing the job.
I am suspecting my seeps are gone.
brillo_76
Elite Member
As I expected. Both my seeps are now gone with worm gear radiator clamps. I should order the clamps [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] suggested I put on my radiator hoses. However, they are going to wait until I have to drain the radiator again.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Cut open the inside frame rail from the pipe to the crossmember [1997 5 speed]. Cleaning it out.
Its starting to scale at the LCA bracket area. So I descale it then clean the steel seal it with corroseal. Then start welding the inner plates in
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Its starting to scale at the LCA bracket area. So I descale it then clean the steel seal it with corroseal. Then start welding the inner plates in
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Yup. Works great too. Best of all it's free!
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes sir. They work great and keeps fluid in the system too the entire time.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Was making decent progress on plating my drivers arch section. When my welder decided to loose the wire feed motor. ....
So my welder bit the dust. Well at least the wire feed motor did.
It would be better for me to upgrade to a 220 with a much better duty cycle and higher amperage.
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So my welder bit the dust. Well at least the wire feed motor did.
It would be better for me to upgrade to a 220 with a much better duty cycle and higher amperage.
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RandyBobandy
New member
Nice, glad I broke that other welder so you could upgrade
brillo_76
Elite Member
You didn't break it. You just were on the trigger when the feed motor shut down.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Making progress on my driver side rear arch. The side is plated with 1/8 and so is the bottom. Gave it a coat of corroseal then once I have most of the inside welded back in a coat the inside heavily with FF before completely sealing it up. Debating if I want to drill 3/4 inch holes in the bottom center of the LCA and put a rubber plug in it so I can inspect and FF again in the future if need be.
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