Brillos Builds
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T4topher
Member
Going to see how I do welding aluminum. Might need to make a few things out of it.
Maybe some bumpers. Brush guards to keep the deer away. I could use a few toolboxes.
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When I make my rear storage/sleeping platform im going to use aluminum square tubing as the structure and I’m going to use brazing rods to join them. They seem pretty legit for what it is.
Bernzomatic AL3 Aluminum Brazing/Welding Rods with 12-Inch Rods of Working Temperature 720-750 Degrees, 2-Piece Bernzomatic AL3 Aluminum Brazing/Welding Rods with 12-Inch Rods of Working Temperature 720-750 Degrees, 2-Piece - Arc Welding Equipment - Amazon.com
brillo_76
Elite Member
Ah. So your going to tig your sleeping platform..
That's the one piece I am missing yet a tig machine or a tig kit for my welder. My spool gun is a mig weld with aluminum. Has a spool of aluminum wire in the gun.
The price doubled since last year and I wanted to get one before it doubled again.
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T4topher
Member
Ah. So your going to tig your sleeping platform..
My spool gun is a mig weld with aluminum. Has a spool of aluminum wire in the gun.
The price doubled since last year and I wanted to get one before it doubled again.
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No those are not for tig, you just use a mapp gas torch like brazing copper.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Ah.. understand.
brazing rods on mapping gas. Brazing aluminum. Should work great for application. Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
Got Tetanus 1 oil changed. [275k]
Adjusted the back drums and put the SS speed bleeders.
Was the same thread the only change was 11mm instead of 10mm the original bleeder wrench size.
Quick bleed on the rear axle and filled the brake reservoir back up.
The speed bleeders came with caps which are great for keeping the dirt out of the bleeders.
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Adjusted the back drums and put the SS speed bleeders.
Was the same thread the only change was 11mm instead of 10mm the original bleeder wrench size.
Quick bleed on the rear axle and filled the brake reservoir back up.
The speed bleeders came with caps which are great for keeping the dirt out of the bleeders.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
When I do stuff like that I’ll heat the metal lightly with a torch until I see the moisture start to collect and then evaporate/dry off. And while it’s still warm I’ll hit it with paint.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Not a bad idea. I needed to get them coated quickly. As you know how fast metal rusts after being blasted in this environment.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
I used air pressure to pop out and the pistons one by one and use c clamps to hold the other 3 in at a time..
I used a small pick set to remove the piston seal. I am sure a small screwdriver would work to remove them..
If a little rust is on the edge of the caliper were the boot seals go just use a bit of sandpaper to remove it.
The pistons are stainless seal so they just need cleaned off..
These kits are extremely reasonable as I think both were under $13.00
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I used a small pick set to remove the piston seal. I am sure a small screwdriver would work to remove them..
If a little rust is on the edge of the caliper were the boot seals go just use a bit of sandpaper to remove it.
The pistons are stainless seal so they just need cleaned off..
These kits are extremely reasonable as I think both were under $13.00
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Now on the rig. Bleed with new pads.
Test drive and the pedal is the same. These rotors and calipers fit the standard OEM 16 inch rims without issues. I am not
Sure why anyone would want the larger tundra calipers and rotors that will fit 17 rims.
As it's too much of a change requiring more volume if fluid causing the shift pedal. However, that's their choice.
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Test drive and the pedal is the same. These rotors and calipers fit the standard OEM 16 inch rims without issues. I am not
Sure why anyone would want the larger tundra calipers and rotors that will fit 17 rims.
As it's too much of a change requiring more volume if fluid causing the shift pedal. However, that's their choice.
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Last edited:
brillo_76
Elite Member
Got it mostly apart my crankshaft gear is stuck and I have to the last photo is whereits currently at. The passenger side moved and it is big deal until the belt is going back on. So I just wanted to point that out. I am changing the water pump, belt tensioner idler pully along with the oil seals on the crankshaft and camshafts. Hence why the gears are off.
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