Brillos Builds

Oh boy that was fun. The seeping water frozen the crankshaft timing gear after a week of messing around here and there and with my harbor freight wheel puller with 6mm x 1.00 x 80mm with 3 washers on each bolt I got it off...:D all cleaned up with a fresh crankshaft seal behind it and back together.
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All back together and on the road.

Leaving the timing belt tensioner bolts very loose and basically just stsrted. I used 3 small c clamps similar Tim's paper binder clamp idea. First the left crankshaft then the right crankshaft mark.

Leave the pully water pump off and C clamp the belt timing mark on side of the crankshaft gear. Use a steel bicycle tire iron to quickly and easily slip the belt on the water pump. By keeping the tensioner bolt very loose the belt slides right on to the tensioner pully.

By using this method. The belt can be on in a few minutes if that. :)


I am doing another 3.4 engine soon and I will take photos of this method.. :)

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This one is for [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]. Now this rot... PA Chrome at this finest. Even the engine frame area is really rusted...;)
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This one is for [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]. Now this rot... PA Chrome at this finest. Even the engine frame area is really rusted...;)
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I took a very similar picture of my California rust-bucket parts truck a few years ago:

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:banana: :becky:

-Charlie
 
I was trying to hit the brake on that thing forgetting that I had removed the abs pump previously. I’m not kidding when I say I could probably break the frame in half by kicking it
 
Here is how I put the timing belts on. I use 3 clamps. 2 2inch ones 1 3 or 4 inch. The 2 inch go on the camshafts holding the belt on the marks. Belt goes on left camshaft first then the right camshaft. Leave the belt tensioner bolts really loose. Use the larger clamp to hold the belt in place on the crankshaft. Then I use metal bike cycle tire iron to slide the belt onto the water pump. Seems to be a very quick way..:)
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Then I tighten the tensioner bolts up. Spin the engine via the crankshaft bolt twice to verify the 3 timing marks line up. The belt marks will not just the camshaft marks and the top of the crankshaft mark. [ the side mark is only use fior new belt. ]

Once I verify the the engine is in time I pull the tensioner pin.

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[MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] and my Brother hit he local pull an pay with all you can haul out for $40 bucks.. Well 3 trips and $126 bucks later we came out with.

Injectors for Randy (BMW)steering wheels and some relays
Honda oddsay windshield sprayers

I came out with a pair of sequoia tundra front calipers
3rd gen Sport hood. 02 throttle body, 02 Master Cylinder
stainless steel real heater lines. Heater valve, rear
engine skid plate. Battery bracket and plate.
The 2 VSC sensors near the emergency brake
plus 2 of the 3 exhaust heat shields
02 headlight and Grille


My brother came out with all the seats and most
interior for his 01 VW Golf.

Granted it didn't snow and we were working
in around 28 Degrees from 9 to 3pm

Great trip.
 
The 1997 limited is getting a newer [lower miles 165k ]engine, transmission and transfer.
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Have you found your engine prices has risen in your area?
I remember for a 5vz could be haggled down to $500. At that time, average prices were $800.
Today, that same engine is going for average of $1900 here.
I would've gotten the engine at $500 but, no where to store that huge and heavy part.
 
Have you found your engine prices has risen in your area?
I remember for a 5vz could be haggled down to $500. At that time, average prices were $800.
Today, that same engine is going for average of $1900 here.
I would've gotten the engine at $500 but, no where to store that huge and heavy part.

Import engines are stupid high around here, I’ve been looking for a Miata engine and they’re so expensive I could buy a whole donor vehicle cheaper, same thing with 4runners I could easily get a donor vehicle for $1900 with a good engine.

When I get a miata engine I’ll buy a whole engine and transmission from Europe and it will be cheaper than any of the clapped out engines I can find for sale locally including shipping
 
Have you found your engine prices has risen in your area?
I remember for a 5vz could be haggled down to $500. At that time, average prices were $800.
Today, that same engine is going for average of $1900 here.
I would've gotten the engine at $500 but, no where to store that huge and heavy part.

Yes mine was from the parts mobile. A person took the transmission out and sold me the entire rig a few years ago for $400.00. The replacement transmission came from RandyboDandy manual swap so fortunately. My parts were very inexpensive.

We replaced on the gaskets on the engine and did the valve pans and timing while it was out.. :-)
 
Well making progress on the 1997 limited. Have the replacement engine ready to drop in all new oil seals vale pans. Timing belt etc. Even got itself new engine mounts
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