Brillos Builds

[brillo_76]

Upon cleaning out the frame. I cut the frame caps off so we could was the frame out throughly. The are welded top and bottom. Along with a inch or so inside weld ok the outer center frame well. Good thing we did as the pa chrome got the tow strap mount inner nuts on the passenger side.

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[brillo_76]

So I cut the inner frame rail out to repair the nuts .. Need to get replacement bolts and nuts. So I can weld them to the plate and the plate to my frame well. Then I weld the inner rail back in. Replacing the skid plate crossmember that I had to cut out to replace because someone in the past must have tried to jack the rig up on it...:/

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[brillo_76]

Here a photo of the bent crossmember and the frame caps cut off

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[brillo_76]

Making some progress. Got the nuts welded in and the plate welded in the frame.. it's always best to chase the threads on the nuts and bolts if you do this. As you do not want cross threading or a busted bolt to have to drill through. The tow hook and strap down backet bolts are 12mm x 1.25 fine thread.

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[brillo_76]

Here is what the frame looks like now on both sides with the side welded back on and the skid plate crossmember bar cleaned off. Ready for its replacement crossmember to go in...

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[brillo_76]

I will weld the end caps back on after I paint and coat the inside with fluid film. Then have to touch up the welds with paint as well. I use paint as an indicator here in the rust belt.

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[jsnppp]

I'll use paint as an indicator down south too.

I'm currently working with Ospho + primer + paint on exterior (Ospho works great but you HAVE to put the time into prep with it), and have not locked on my interior frame chemical.. I bought some corroseal to try out on some spare steel first to understand it's behavior.

Thanks for the update.

Jason

 

[brillo_76]

I'll use paint as an indicator down south too.



I'm currently working with Ospho + primer + paint on exterior (Ospho works great but you HAVE to put the time into prep with it), and have not locked on my interior frame chemical.. I bought some corroseal to try out on some spare steel first to understand it's behavior.



Thanks for the update.



Jason

Yes. Paint is good indicator. Around my area it tells me what the steel is doing. It also does inhibit rust as well..

I have ospho never tried it. I use corroseal and it only works on rusted steel and can't take heat.

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[brillo_76]

[MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] and I hit a local yard and he scored his wanted 4:30 elocker so we grabbed both front diffs. I grabbed some seats the starter and alt both oem toyotas. A few lines .. So we did well...

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[brillo_76]

Going to verify the placement off another runner. This one is not bent up so I verify a skid plate lines up before welding it back in..

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[brillo_76]

I got the crossmember welded back in. I used the skid plate to align it..

Used a jack to hold the plate up until I got all the bolt holes lined up.

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[brillo_76]

I had a hole there so I welded it shut and ground it off...

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[brillo_76]

Making progress in getting this rig painted..

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[brillo_76]

Well doing the axle seals and ball joints on the 1997 limited. So I fixed the brake line bracket bolt. As very common for these to snap if they are never removed and antiseized. Would not be a bad idea to use a stainless flange bolt in that particular location. Seems to be a 8m× 1.25 thread ( that's what I retapped it as). Anyways the passenger side spindles is repaired..

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[brillo_76]

Making progress on the rig. This one is going to be my brother's winter beater. As he gets the credit for the painting. Plus [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] assists when he can as well. So we have 3 folks working on this particular one. As we are trying to get it done as quickly as time allows..

The welding and alot of the wrenching is being done by me. As the rig is basically getting the engine. Transmission transfer all resealed. The front and rear axles are getting their shaft seals done. New upper and lower front ball joints and new flex lines for the brakes.

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[brillo_76]

The other driver side spindle now completed with new [ both sides ] upper and lower ball joints. Drilled and tapped brake line bracket bolt. I have stainless steel flanged bolts coming to replace these brake line bracket bolts as it seems they rust and swell causing the head to just break off. I figure this will correct this issue forever being the stainless steel bolts will nut rust.

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[heat]

I guess if you go in expecting the worst, it's a little less of an uphill battle.
Don't know if I'd have your patience. I'd finally have a reason to make sure
the oxy-acetylene bottles were full

 

[brillo_76]

I guess if you go in expecting the worst, it's a little less of an uphill battle.

Don't know if I'd have your patience. I'd finally have a reason to make sure

the oxy-acetylene bottles were full

I don't use cutting torches much anymore. The plasma cutter does a better job. Except for heating up steel to get bolts and nuts to come loose. Then the acetylene is very helpful. Sometimes a few cycles of heating up and cooling down can break the rust bond. Unless the bolts swell from rust. Then it's game over and drill and tapping is required. I am planning to swap out the smaller bolts like the 10mm x 12mm hex head ones with stainless steel flanged bolts and nuts in the heavy rust areas as I figure those are less likely to get stuck and snap. Granted stainless steel is harder so that makes them brittle. As the rust belt is hard on things.

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[Yeti2k3]

Brillo's brother joining in on the fun here! Great thread!

 

[brillo_76]

Brillo's brother joining in on the fun here! Great thread!

Oh boy [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION]...looks like [MENTION=693474]Yeti2k3[/MENTION] found us... The thread will never be the same now..lol

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