Brillos Builds

[jsnppp]

Hey Brillo - question for you.

I'm just about done cleaning inside my frame. I bought a jug of corroseal based on this thread. I also have ospho, paint, etc.

1. Any final thoughts on corroseal as interior frame protection?
2. How do you recommend getting the corroseal in the frame?

I am not planning on topcoating it. Probably the best answer to get it in there is to put it in a garden sprayer and do the best I can.

Thoughts welcome!

(Oh, your truck looks good! I like the new hood)

 

[brillo_76]

Hey Brillo - question for you.

I'm just about done cleaning inside my frame. I bought a jug of corroseal based on this thread. I also have ospho, paint, etc.

1. Any final thoughts on corroseal as interior frame protection?
2. How do you recommend getting the corroseal in the frame?

I am not planning on topcoating it. Probably the best answer to get it in there is to put it in a garden sprayer and do the best I can.

Thoughts welcome!

(Oh, your truck looks good! I like the new hood)

You would really need the frame to be super clean to get coroseal to stick in the frame. I use it when cut frame sections out fix the frame and weld things. At the weld points it will burn off.


Now on the outside of the frame. You can get the steel clean enough to give it two 2 three coats on the rusted steel to encapsulate the oxide. Plus it leaves a semi rough surface to paint over.

Coroseal only sticks to rusted steel. It will not stick to paint unless you rough the paint up. Then it's a 50/50 to sticking to paint.

So you have to spray it in like you would fluid film into the frame through the frame holes. This is way I mostly use fluid film inside the frames. Seal off the holes with either steel plates or silicon. As if water and dirt can't get if the holes are all holes are closed.

Folks get concerned this is bad because the frame can't dry out. However, in the rust belt this is your best chance to keep a frame from rotting out.


Now if you spray coroseal in and let it dry for a few days in 50 to 70 degrees low humidity air. Then fluid film the inside of the frame after coroseal dry silicone the frame holes shut after your done. That inner frame should be protected.


You do the same thing to the outer frame minus the silicone then the frame should be in decent shape. The film will wash off so coating the outside of the frame rails will be a yearly, semi yearly chore.

This is why I am looking for a better alternative to coating of the outside.

Paint is only an indicator to show you what the steel is doing.


Hope this helps.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

This 1997 limited is going to be my brother [MENTION=693474]Yeti2k3[/MENTION] winter mobile. Granted I drive it some but we built it for him. It's Frame is excellent for being in this area. He needed a winter ride as his 2001 vw tdi golf diesel doesn't have much snow clearance and wants to keep it out of the salt.

My 4 runners are used as work beaters. Hence why I rebuild them as use them for that. They will never be show trucks nor fancy mall crawlers. They are chosen for this because of their dependability and long life.

I bought my first one in 2015. Tetanus 1. I unfortunately had to litery throw it together for a work/ daily driver mobile. I wanted to learn how to weld and repair frames. Most of its frame patching was done wrong and also an experiment. I didn't paint it's plate patches or frame. As I wanted to see how it held up.

Now 2022. 7 years later, I basically mastered how to fix these frames. I will not plate any patch on the outside of any boxed frame.

Reasons:

1) Unless a professional welder you can not weld your plates pinhole free. So unless you coat your frame with non wash away rust inhibitors. It will rust .

2] it will continue to rust behind your plates.
This is why I paint my steel then coat and seal it after I am done welding. If you don't do this. I show you what happens down the road here on Tetanus 1

3] They rot from the inside out. This is why I cut the frames open. Not only to clean the debres out but to paint it. Then coat it with a good rust inhibitor and seal it.

4). The frame looks so much better and stronger with the plates in the inside. Not mention you have good steel in there to weld new brackets and body mounts to.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[jsnppp]

You would really need the frame to be super clean to get coroseal to stick in the frame. I use it when cut frame sections out fix the frame and weld things. At the weld points it will burn off.


Now on the outside of the frame. You can get the steel clean enough to give it two 2 three coats on the rusted steel to encapsulate the oxide. Plus it leaves a semi rough surface to paint over.

Coroseal only sticks to rusted steel. It will not stick to paint unless you rough the paint up. Then it's a 50/50 to sticking to paint.

So you have to spray it in like you would fluid film into the frame through the frame holes. This is way I mostly use fluid film inside the frames. Seal off the holes with either steel plates or silicon. As if water and dirt can't get if the holes are all holes are closed.

Folks get concerned this is bad because the frame can't dry out. However, in the rust belt this is your best chance to keep a frame from rotting out.


Now if you spray coroseal in and let it dry for a few days in 50 to 70 degrees low humidity air. Then fluid film the inside of the frame after coroseal dry silicone the frame holes shut after your done. That inner frame should be protected.


You do the same thing to the outer frame minus the silicone then the frame should be in decent shape. The film will wash off so coating the outside of the frame rails will be a yearly, semi yearly chore.

This is why I am looking for a better alternative to coating of the outside.

Paint is only an indicator to show you what the steel is doing.


Hope this helps.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Helpful, thank you Brillo. You are the jedi rust master.

My internal frame has spots of internal corrosion and also clean paint. It spent a couple of years "up north" and I want to slow down or stop what I can.

I believe in rust converters and I'm thinking that spraying corroseal inside for it to cover the rusty bits, let it dry thoroughly (weeks if needed) and then possibly put some paint or fluid-film on it.

I'm in Austin, Texas and so won't see the extremes but I still can't fathom running around with a frame that has any rust.. I'm not prepared to cut out the bottoms of my frame even though I would love to see whats in there and really prep it well.

I'll do some trial runs with corroseal in an accessible spot on the outside to see behavior.

Thanks again for this thread and your detailed answers. Beer on me some day.

Jason

 

[brillo_76]

Helpful, thank you Brillo. You are the jedi rust master.



My internal frame has spots of internal corrosion and also clean paint. It spent a couple of years "up north" and I want to slow down or stop what I can.



I believe in rust converters and I'm thinking that spraying corroseal inside for it to cover the rusty bits, let it dry thoroughly (weeks if needed) and then possibly put some paint or fluid-film on it.



I'm in Austin, Texas and so won't see the extremes but I still can't fathom running around with a frame that has any rust.. I'm not prepared to cut out the bottoms of my frame even though I would love to see whats in there and really prep it well.



I'll do some trial runs with corroseal in an accessible spot on the outside to see behavior.



Thanks again for this thread and your detailed answers. Beer on me some day.



Jason

Ah. Ok. You have one that was up here then went south.

Then you can probably get it clean enough to coroseal encapsulate it

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Have a few seat bolts heads the rusted enough. We can't easily get them out. So what do you do? Next size socket down won't work.

Well I mostly drill pop the heads off. Then weld. Onto the left over stud.

This one was trying to weld to the head that's still here before drilling off.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

How I got the 2 seat bolts. I drilled heads off then built up the bolts with weld. Lastly, I welded 1/2 thread 3/4 nuts unto the bolts.. then easily worked the bolts out.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

We fixed the park lock system. So it functions properly again. So when you put the foot on the brake it will shift out of park without using the override switch..

Needed to replace the switch on the shifter, solenoid and it's control module. Then replaced the burned out light bulb on the shifter as well. So the radio dash cover is on along with the shifter covers.

Need to get the replacement emergency brake cable.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=693474]Yeti2k3[/MENTION] got new suspension for his ride.. looks like that's are next project.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

The suspension all in the 1997 limited. The Rear control arms all have poly bushings in. Except the lateral control arm. The emergency brake cable finally came in so it's installed as well. It goes for an inspection Tommorrow and alignment later this week. About 98% complete. The interior plastic needs put back in and the back seat yet. Along with the rear rubber mat etc.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Before and after of the front suspension.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[Sarki]

Come a long way, back from the brink.
Can’t wait to see her with new tags and a growing odometer.
Nicely done!

 

[brillo_76]

Well it's inspected. Have some interior to put back in and the body work will be a year or so down the road.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[Sarki]

She’s alive!

 

[octanejunkie]

How I got the 2 seat bolts. I drilled heads off then built up the bolts with weld. Lastly, I welded 1/2 thread 3/4 nuts unto the bolts.. then easily worked the bolts out.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I have a license plate bolt that rusted itself into the hatch back

Heating and cooling didn't work, nor did an easy out... any ideas on that one?

 

[brillo_76]

I got mine out from the inside. I welded nuts on studs sticking out then heated and cold down a few times.

They then worked right out.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Current project for Tetanus 1. A replacement axle housing in need of slight repair. Lateral control arm bracket needs repaired along with that spring mount. It's 90% better then the current housing in it. As this one has a good 3rd member cover and good control arm brackets..

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

The lateral control arm repair. I plasma cut the back off so I could repair it. That is all curved except for a 1 x 1 inch square below the arm bolt.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Believe it or not, I rebuilt the bracket with weld. Too many bends and curves to use plates. After that I gound down and smoothed it all out and the spring bracket too. It's strength is back and thick again.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[jsnppp]

Looking good man!

Steel is steel.

Jason