Broke my first CV on the trail today-need to replace

[mcaz5]

Okay I broke my first CV today. It has been leaking for a while and I've been putting it off and I'm sure lack of grease had a part in the failure. I can grab the shaft that connects to the hub side and wiggle it up and down. It ticks when I was turning and clunks. I think I can get away with not driving it until this weekend when I could work on it. Here's my problem though:

I'm now in college and living in an apartment about an hour and a half from home. I think my parents were actually planning to come up this weekend and visit so they should be able to bring my jackstands and tools. I've read over the how to change a CV a few times and I have mostly everything needed. I will have to go out and buy a 35mm socket though. What CV axles should I go with? My local Napas online prices show I can get a reman Napa Maxdrive for $56 and new one for $114. If I buy the reman would I have to give my core one back? I'd like to keep the broken one I have now to have as a spare one day so what would you do if you were in my situation?

And in case this ever happens, but the shaft actually comes completely separated what should I do? I was able to limp home this time, it did make a ticking noise the whole way home and also when I turned it would bind and pop.

Also, am I gonna have to drop the BudBuilt to get the CV out?

 

[Dous]

Yes, you will need to drop the Budbuilt, it sucks, but not as much as trying to get to the CV with it still there.

I recommend AutoZone. I can get a brand new one for less than $60, no core charge. Lifetime replacement, I have only broken one of those and they replaced without hesitation.

The 35mm can be sort of tough to find, my Lowe's recently started carrying them, but any auto parts house should have it.

If the CV breaks on the trail you can pop it out of place, and disassemble the outer joint by striking it with a large hammer. IT can be tough, but you NEED to leave the outer joint in place to hold the wheel bearing together.

 

[mcaz5]

Yes, you will need to drop the Budbuilt, it sucks, but not as much as trying to get to the CV with it still there.

I recommend AutoZone. I can get a brand new one for less than $60, no core charge. Lifetime replacement, I have only broken one of those and they replaced without hesitation.

The 35mm can be sort of tough to find, my Lowe's recently started carrying them, but any auto parts house should have it.

If the CV breaks on the trail you can pop it out of place, and disassemble the outer joint by striking it with a large hammer. IT can be tough, but you NEED to leave the outer joint in place to hold the wheel bearing together.

Thanks Dous!

I had a feeling I was gonna have to drop it. Oh well.

Autozone? Really? I'm surprised you've had that good experience with them. Everything I've heard said they suck and that NAPAs were the only aftermarket ones that were worth anything. I know you wheel hard so they'd be plenty good for me. I may have to go that route then.

I remember reading a few time when guys blew CVs that they used the outer joint like you mentioned. I guess it slipped my mind.

Thanks for the help!

 

[cj80cruiser]

Mine are leaking badly and ive been putting it off too. I have a 35mm socket but I believe someone told me that the parts store brands have a 36mm Cv hex nut? Also was said the 36mm socket would work on the OE cvs. My plan was to reuse the OE 35mm hex nut since I already have the 35mm.

It may be best to get a 36mm socket to be more universal. It could help someone out on the trail one day.

 

[downpour11]

I got a 36mm at Sears. They usually have em. Also... that's crazy autozone has no core charge over there. Up here they charge a $150 core charge... it's absolutely ridiculous.

 

[Dous]

Mine are leaking badly and ive been putting it off too. I have a 35mm socket but I believe someone told me that the parts store brands have a 36mm Cv hex nut? Also was said the 36mm socket would work on the OE cvs. My plan was to reuse the OE 35mm hex nut since I already have the 35mm.

It may be best to get a 36mm socket to be more universal. It could help someone out on the trail one day.

Yep I have used a 36MM socket on the OEMS with no issues. I carry both a 35 and 36MM. Every store that I have seen with a 35MM socket also has the 36mm

I got a 36mm at Sears. They usually have em. Also... that's crazy autozone has no core charge over there. Up here they charge a $150 core charge... it's absolutely ridiculous.

Well they have a reman unit that has the core charge, but also the brad new one with no core charge. Seemed like a no brainer to me

 

[mcaz5]

Yep I have used a 36MM socket on the OEMS with no issues. I carry both a 35 and 36MM. Every store that I have seen with a 35MM socket also has the 36mm

Good to know...looks like ill be on the hunt for a 36MM then.

 

[Dous]

Good to know...looks like ill be on the hunt for a 36MM then.

Just don't toss use an impact to break loose the stock ones, just use a breaker bar in case it wants to strip or some reason. The stock ones can be kind of tough if they haven't ever been removed.

 

[mcaz5]

Just don't toss use an impact to break loose the stock ones, just use a breaker bar in case it wants to strip or some reason. The stock ones can be kind of tough if they haven't ever been removed.

I wish I had that option available. Unfortunately I have only hand tools haha. I'm hoping I don't have too much trouble breaking it loose.



Anyone else wanna chime in on the Autozone axles? A lot of reviews say they're bad, but I know Dous wheels hard and I trust his opinion. I'm leaning towards getting them right now.

 

[downpour11]

It's hit and miss. I used em twice, actually IIRC the last one I bought from auto zone broke on my last trip before my SAS, popping hard on turns. First one sucked, second one sucked. I had a Napa maxdrive or whatever it's called on my drivers side that held up well. I even pulled it from my chopped up IFS because it was still good. Not a fan of CV's anymore though and I know I'm soon to not be a fan of stock dana 44 axles lol.

 

[mcaz5]

It's hit and miss. I used em twice, actually IIRC the last one I bought from auto zone broke on my last trip before my SAS, popping hard on turns. First one sucked, second one sucked. I had a Napa maxdrive or whatever it's called on my drivers side that held up well. I even pulled it from my chopped up IFS because it was still good. Not a fan of CV's anymore though and I know I'm soon to not be a fan of stock dana 44 axles lol.

Ah dammit. Now you've got me struggling on which one to get.

Ill just pretend I didn't hear that comment about the 44s...

 

[downpour11]

Ill just pretend I didn't hear that comment about the 44s...

??? why?

 

[NateMob]

My autozone cv I swapped in for a broken oem bit the dust in less than 24 hours. I say stick with oem.

 

[TheFatGuy]

Its possible to swap the CV without dropping the skidplate, thats how i have done it.

 

[mcaz5]

??? why?

I'm jealous that's why!!

 

[JWaldz]

I also agree that it's quite doable to remove a cv axle without removing any skid plate.. Just takes the right tools to get in there. Crow bars help. I've completely mastered removing my driver side by myself but the passenger side helps to have an extra hand.

OEM cv's are hard to justify spending the money on them when you know you run the chance of breaking another. For me, I buy from the local car parts store (Advanced Auto) knowing I have a lifetime warranty. Cus when, not if, I break one I don't have to worry about it coming out of my pocket.

 

[mcaz5]

Thanks for the help guys. Just went and picked up a 36MM socket, some blue loctite and put in an order at NAPA for new CV. The fun part will come Sunday.

 

[thor999]

Might want to start sparying those bolts w/ PB Blaster or Kroil now, may help the removal some...

 

[danthemanx07]

Anyone else looking for a socket:

Amazon.com: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36mm Heavy Duty FWD Impact Socket: Home Improvement

With prime, will be there in 2 days. I have one. Does just as it should for $11.

Also, i just replaced both of my CVs with NAPAs. Core was $121, but axles were only $66 themselves with lifetime warranty.

Just don't forget to transfer the dust shields from the old to new axles... Doing the same job twice for something stupid like that is not fun... I know.

 

[mcaz5]

Got a chance to work on it yesterday. Got to the dust cap and it gave me fits. Then it started to rain so that's a bummer. Still stuck on getting that dust cap off. Ill try again this evening.

Oh and when I went to NAPA they had to order the CV. I told them I wanted the one for $115. Went to pick it up the next day and it rung up as $87 on the register. So I double checked it was the new Maxdrive version and it was so that was a nice surprise.