Broken Axle advice

[4wordSOUL]

I have an '04 Sport V8 with 180k and I believe the axles have never been replaced. My front drivers side broke today and I've been looking through posts for advice. Seems like the general opinion is OEM are best and the replacement looks fairly straight forward, I'm sure I can do it myself after looking at a view videos. Any advice? Best source for a new one? Should I replace both or take care of the broken one and be good to go? What should I look out for?

 

[4r-4ever]

aftermarket is fine. replacing only the broken axle is fine as well.

I have an '04 Sport V8 with 180k and I believe the axles have never been replaced. My front drivers side broke today and I've been looking through posts for advice. Seems like the general opinion is OEM are best and the replacement looks fairly straight forward, I'm sure I can do it myself after looking at a view videos. Any advice? Best source for a new one? Should I replace both or take care of the broken one and be good to go? What should I look out for?

 

[aemravan]

if you're not doing any heavy off road rock crawling a non-oem axle will be perfectly fine for road use. If you have larger tires and wheel the rig, you will break these sooner than an OEM set.

Also yes, if you're going to do one side, go ahead and do 2. The replacement isn't bad, if you have the tools and some basic mechanical knowledge it can be done really quick. Would be a good time to do a drain and refill of fresh diff fluid while you have the axles out.

I have pulled my axles a number of times and still have not had to replace the diff seal, but could be nice to get and replace while you're at it, especially if you end up damaging taking the axles out and putting in the new ones.

 

[4wordSOUL]

What is bent? Do I need a new hub? I think a seal may go here, what is it? Can I ignore this bent ring? What is it?

 

[aemravan]

What is bent? Do I need a new hub? I think a seal may go here, what is it? Can I ignore this bent ring? What is it?

that is the seal itself, the wheel bearing seal if i'm not mistaking, or whatever you want to call it. If you want to do it right I would replace it, however I have also hammered stuff like this straight and let it be as well lol

TOYOTA 90316-69001 (9031669001) SEAL *GENUINE* | eBay


ps: any more pictures of the actual axle? looks like quite a failure.. did it separate completely or is that just how it came out?

 

[bob3dsf]

That's a "knuckle seal"

 

[4wordSOUL]

That's a "knuckle seal"

And it's "damaged"....how do I correctly "fix" it? I'm looking for a kit or set with all the seals and whatnot I need. A little help....

 

[y=mx+b]

I used this part number: 90316-A0001 (links to McGeorge Parts).

I show how I replaced here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...ent-tutorial-new-seals-120-pictures.html#five

 

[Derekv]

Since you are Denver, check out; CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

They rebuild axles. If yours are oem, they will give you a core value for them. They offer upgraded boots as well.

The front diff seals are different sizes for left and right. They do not sit flush, but are recessed a little. I don’t remember the exact amount they are recessed, a bit of searching should provide that information.

You will need a large (35mm?) socket to get the axle off the hub and new cotter pins.

I would definitely do both axels at once.

Pry the old axle out right at the diff.

A brass rod to use to get the new axles in helps a lot. The C clip on the axle should either be up or down, there is some debate on the best orientation.

You will need a good 10mm hex to get the fill (always fill first) and drain plugs out of the front diff. Be ready to fight with them depending on when they were last out. I bought new plugs just in case.

Not a difficult job overall. Do the research so you know what to expect and have everything you need.

Derek V

 

[taxzz]

Since you are Denver, check out; CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

They rebuild axles. If yours are oem, they will give you a core value for them. They offer upgraded boots as well.

The front diff seals are different sizes for left and right. They do not sit flush, but are recessed a little. I don’t remember the exact amount they are recessed, a bit of searching should provide that information.

You will need a large (35mm?) socket to get the axle off the hub and new cotter pins.

I would definitely do both axels at once.

Pry the old axle out right at the diff.

A brass rod to use to get the new axles in helps a lot. The C clip on the axle should either be up or down, there is some debate on the best orientation.

You will need a good 10mm hex to get the fill (always fill first) and drain plugs out of the front diff. Be ready to fight with them depending on when they were last out. I bought new plugs just in case.

Not a difficult job overall. Do the research so you know what to expect and have everything you need.

Derek V

35mm is right, but i'd never personally bother taking out a CV unless it fails or the boot is torn. There's no value there IMO.

 

[Derekv]

“ 35mm is right, but i'd never personally bother taking out a CV unless it fails or the boot is torn. There's no value there IMO.‘

Judgement call. I figure they have both been through the same miles and one failed, the other probably isn’t too far out. 2 trips to the axel shop instead of 4 one time up on jack stands instead of 2, peace of mind of 2 new axles, and getting all the tools out, cleaning them, and putting them away once instead of twice.

Derek V

 

[Jakeepoo3]

What is bent? Do I need a new hub? I think a seal may go here, what is it? Can I ignore this bent ring? What is it?

Change both at the same time. Oem is recommended but I got a set of aftermarket A1 Cardone axles for $120. So far they are smooth as a cloud. The quality of the boots and the method they are banded on are exactly the same as OEM I off road a lot also. I figured I could buy like ten sets of those for the same price as oem. And it's not that difficult to repair so why blow money on hear say. Keep you old pair in case. You can reuse the boots if necessary. Do a diff service and check the diff dust seals for damage and are properly seated. I changed my axles at 100,000 and the diff seals were in perfect condition. They are very good quality. The bent area on the hub probably happened when your axle busted. It looks not only bent but crumpled in also. This is where the dust seal on the axle seats so it needs to be not crumpled.. bummer.. I see the dust seal on the inside of the hub. It looks destroyed and filthy in there. There should also be a stainless retaining spring in that seal. C clip gap down when installing. Be careful around your speed sensors I just take them out. They need cleaned anyways of metal particles. Also the same with the magneto ring. Careful with your abs line not to stretch. Replace old filthy grease with the same amount removed. The correct grease! Good to go.

 

[4wordSOUL]

Thanks for all the feedback, I got it done with one exception.

I have one further question that frankly is really pissing me off. I broke the #10 bolt for the brakeline bracket, it seems to be impossible using the interwebs to identify it's size and where I can get one...just one, I don't need $35 of a kit of other shit I will never use. Help, I'm really frustrated.

 

[y=mx+b]

Thanks for all the feedback, I got it done with one exception.

I have one further question that frankly is really pissing me off. I broke the #10 bolt for the brakeline bracket, it seems to be impossible using the interwebs to identify it's size and where I can get one...just one, I don't need $35 of a kit of other shit I will never use. Help, I'm really frustrated.

its either m8x1.25 or m6x1.0. Go to ACE or Tractor Supply and pick one up.

 

[Dropzone]

just out of curiosity did you replace the front bearing too since had it apart?

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks for all the feedback, I got it done with one exception.

I have one further question that frankly is really pissing me off. I broke the #10 bolt for the brakeline bracket, it seems to be impossible using the interwebs to identify it's size and where I can get one...just one, I don't need $35 of a kit of other shit I will never use. Help, I'm really frustrated.

I don't remember the exact size but I bought the same bolt for my 4Runner at either Home Depot or Lowes, it's been a while so I can't say which store it was but they both should have it, I just took the broken bolt with me to the get the correct diameter and thread using their bolt/nut size display, for the length I just got the one that I thought was right by measuring the depth of the threaded hole as best I could.

 

[4wordSOUL]

just out of curiosity did you replace the front bearing too since had it apart?

No, it's in good shape.

 

[4wordSOUL]

I don't remember the exact size but I bought the same bolt for my 4Runner at either Home Depot or Lowes, it's been a while so I can't say which store it was but they both should have it, I just took the broken bolt with me to the get the correct diameter and thread using their bolt/nut size display, for the length I just got the one that I thought was right by measuring the depth of the threaded hole as best I could.

Yea, I 've done this a few times...my truck is my only vehicle & I can't ride bikes anymore so this is a bit of a PITA right now.