tacokiller
New member
How do you get the broken part of the cv shaft out of the front differential? It snapped fully insides front diff and I have know clue how to get it out. Thanks for the help.
Broken cv inside front diff
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tacokiller
New member
tacokiller
New member
tacokiller
New member
Hmmm that is a pain. But they are the stock toyota axels actually!
hearno
Senior Member
that sounds like a decent option
TBuzz
New member
When the CV breaks at the inner axle shaft extraction or teardown are the two options. The broken shaft in inaccessible by simple measures.
-Jack and support front end safely
-Remove tire, damaged CV and shock assembly (Plenty of write-ups on CV removal)
-Mark and indent center of broken shaft
-Wedge paper into the bottom of the housing to catch metal shavings
-Make sure your drill fits into the tight space at a straight angle. If the drill does not fit removal of the LCA is required. The DeWalt I used was big and had to be operated upside-down to get a straight line on the shaft
-Use a 5/16 cobalt/tungsten carbide tip bit for drilling. Drill a pilot indention with 4WD disengaged to spin the shaft and center the hole more easily
-Engage 4WD and front locker and drill approximately ½ inch deep
-Start the 3/8 tap by hand and continue with a wrench. Back the tap out every so often to clean the threads and clear metal particles, wasted gear oil will assist the tap
-Thread the 3/8 bolt and remove the shaft with a slide hammer. The Harbor Freight model I used was 3/8 and threaded directly into the shaft. Otherwise use a 3/8 bolt and slide hammer jaws. (in the tools pic note the shaft piece at the end of the slide hammer)
-Thoroughly clean the housing to remove any shavings/debris
-Change the diff fluid and check the drain plug for metal after a few miles if need
-Jack and support front end safely
-Remove tire, damaged CV and shock assembly (Plenty of write-ups on CV removal)
-Mark and indent center of broken shaft
-Wedge paper into the bottom of the housing to catch metal shavings
-Make sure your drill fits into the tight space at a straight angle. If the drill does not fit removal of the LCA is required. The DeWalt I used was big and had to be operated upside-down to get a straight line on the shaft
-Use a 5/16 cobalt/tungsten carbide tip bit for drilling. Drill a pilot indention with 4WD disengaged to spin the shaft and center the hole more easily
-Engage 4WD and front locker and drill approximately ½ inch deep
-Start the 3/8 tap by hand and continue with a wrench. Back the tap out every so often to clean the threads and clear metal particles, wasted gear oil will assist the tap
-Thread the 3/8 bolt and remove the shaft with a slide hammer. The Harbor Freight model I used was 3/8 and threaded directly into the shaft. Otherwise use a 3/8 bolt and slide hammer jaws. (in the tools pic note the shaft piece at the end of the slide hammer)
-Thoroughly clean the housing to remove any shavings/debris
-Change the diff fluid and check the drain plug for metal after a few miles if need
tacokiller
New member
Pull the other side CV and knock out the broken part from the opposite side with a long bar or screwdriver.
snow junky
New member
i would have just cracked open the clam shell.... wouldnt want any of the shavings going through the gears.
KidVermicious
New member
That would work, but I don't know how you'd get a welder on it. The shaft snapped inside the diff itself.
Way to go, TBuzz.
Not by me. I've used that method several times, and also suggested using it on this forum.
Hit the end of the broken axle shaft with some brake clean, tack weld a bolt to it, attach a slide hammer, and pop it out in under five minutes.
The quick tack weld doesn't produce enough heat to damage the oil seal, and it's a lot easier than drilling and tapping.
Of course it does require a welder, which not everyone has.
GrossMan
New member
This may be a stupid question, but how the bejesus did you snap this? Were you wheelin'? Rock crawlin? ....Pulling an M1 Abrams out of ditch?
Also, is this a common issues T4Rs? Judging from the number of replies it does not seem like a rare event.
....silly me, I thought that all I had to worry about were lower ball joints!!
Grossman
This will only work if you pull the entire front diff and remove the ADD shaft. You cannot do this with the diff in the car.
I carry a drill and a 12" extension for this exact purpose. I do not tap it I use a 6" concrete screw that is a course thread and drive it in the drilled hole. I attach vice grips to it and either pry on it or attach a strap with a heady object (hammer) on the end and swing away. After the last time I broke two one on each side I have started removing the compression ring from the end of the axles. I have not tested this for an extended period of time but it sucks to do this repair on the trail.
mizzle415
New member
Used this Sage Advise
Thread Resurrection to add my experience.
Thanks to the OP and to Sniv for suggesting the weld method.
So. Was pulling a stump (from bottom of a little bush) with the 4runner. Hooked up the winch to the stump and yanked. No go.
Pulled on it with the 4runner in 4lo. No go.
Gave a pretty hard tug, snapped the 8K synthetic winch line (as it was hooked back on itself around the stump). I had the protective cordura sheath on it, but I think the metal hook just cut through it and the winch line.
Hooked up a tow strap around the stump (little bush) and attached to front shackles on bumper. Pull softly, no go.
Give a yank, spinning tires a bit, no go.
Try again, snapped passenger side CV axle.
Took it apart this morning. CV axle was busted off inside the diff tube.
I welded an eye bolt to the broken off piece, inside the diff tube (at least an inch or two deep).
Yanked it out and replaced with new CV joint! BTW, this was NAPA gold CV that broke and it was replaced with an O'reilly Master Pro. (I know, should never gave up my OEMs for core, live and learn). Just not ready to step up to Lotus of CVJ yet.
Definitely feel like a dumbass for breaking my shit, but got some redemption with the awesome extraction!
Enjoy the pics.
Thread Resurrection to add my experience.
Thanks to the OP and to Sniv for suggesting the weld method.
So. Was pulling a stump (from bottom of a little bush) with the 4runner. Hooked up the winch to the stump and yanked. No go.
Pulled on it with the 4runner in 4lo. No go.
Gave a pretty hard tug, snapped the 8K synthetic winch line (as it was hooked back on itself around the stump). I had the protective cordura sheath on it, but I think the metal hook just cut through it and the winch line.
Hooked up a tow strap around the stump (little bush) and attached to front shackles on bumper. Pull softly, no go.
Give a yank, spinning tires a bit, no go.
Try again, snapped passenger side CV axle.
Took it apart this morning. CV axle was busted off inside the diff tube.
I welded an eye bolt to the broken off piece, inside the diff tube (at least an inch or two deep).
Yanked it out and replaced with new CV joint! BTW, this was NAPA gold CV that broke and it was replaced with an O'reilly Master Pro. (I know, should never gave up my OEMs for core, live and learn). Just not ready to step up to Lotus of CVJ yet.
Definitely feel like a dumbass for breaking my shit, but got some redemption with the awesome extraction!
Enjoy the pics.
