Broken license plate bolt

[sts00]

So I just purchased (yesterday) a 2013 SR5 at a dealer and they broke the bolt on the left side top of license plate. So today I go out to figure out how to get it out and was successful. But now I can only get the new bolt in a couple turns before it seems the threads are crossed.

Any suggestions? Can a bolt be cut short and still thread in?

Thanks in advance.

 

[rigtec]

"...So today I go out to figure out how to get it out and was successful. But now I can only get the new bolt in a couple turns before it seems the threads are crossed. Any suggestions? Can a bolt be cut short and still thread in?..."

Hi sts,

'FIRST'... make certain that the new bolt that you intend to use is a 'Metric thread' and the exact same thread count/size; that mistake is very easy to make. To be sure, remove a bolt from one of the other holes and 'carefully' get it started in hole that has the problem, using your fingertips; never use tools to start a thread.

If that doesn't do it: Try spraying some "Penetrating oil" e.g., Liquid Wrench, WD-40, Justice Brothers... and flush the hole. Allow a few mins for the oil to soak the threads, and then 'gently' start the bolt in again. When the bolt starts to become tight again as a result of the potentially damaged threads, back-off some then twist the bolt in again (gently with your fingers), going past the point that you went the last time. If the bolt seems to be turning but is still 'a little stiff', you can use pliers to assist in the "back and forth" process. Doing it this way, you're chasing the damaged threads, and removing the debris created by the original bolt that broke off. Continue doing this a few more times until you can run the new bolt all the way in and out using only your fingers and you should be fine!

"Can a bolt be cut short and still thread in?"

You don't want to cut the bolt short to compensate for it not going all the way in; the male threads should run 'AT LEAST' the full length of the female threads to be sure that the bolt can be torqued down properly!

Rgds

rigtec, cheers

 

[Antman]

So I just purchased (yesterday) a 2013 SR5 at a dealer and they broke the bolt on the left side top of license plate. So today I go out to figure out how to get it out and was successful. But now I can only get the new bolt in a couple turns before it seems the threads are crossed.

Any suggestions? Can a bolt be cut short and still thread in?

Thanks in advance.

Assuming you got all of the original bolt out your best bet would be to get the appropriate sized tap and run it through the buggered up threads.

That'll fix it right up.

 

[sts00]

Hi sts,

'FIRST'... make certain that the new bolt that you intend to use is a 'Metric thread' and the exact same thread count/size; that mistake is very easy to make. To be sure, remove a bolt from one of the other holes and 'carefully' get it started in hole that has the problem, using your fingertips; never use tools to start a thread.

If that doesn't do it: Try spraying some "Penetrating oil" e.g., Liquid Wrench, WD-40, Justice Brothers... and flush the hole. Allow a few mins for the oil to soak the threads, and then 'gently' start the bolt in again. When the bolt starts to become tight again as a result of the potentially damaged threads, back-off some then twist the bolt in again (gently with your fingers), going past the point that you went the last time. If the bolt seems to be turning but is still 'a little stiff', you can use pliers to assist in the "back and forth" process. Doing it this way, you're chasing the damaged threads, and removing the debris created by the original bolt that broke off. Continue doing this a few more times until you can run the new bolt all the way in and out using only your fingers and you should be fine!

I tried the other bolt from the top right hole that was undamaged. Now I have what's left of the broken bolt rattling in the lift gate. I can see that driving me nuts for YEARS...I will try to penetrating oil and see if I can get it to work.

 

[philsey]

You seem to imply the dealer knew they buggered the thing. Howcum they don't fix this?

 

[Stifler]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]? torqued down? we are talking about a license plate bolt not a lug nut lol but normally I would agree lol

 

[sts00]

You seem to imply the dealer knew they buggered the thing. Howcum they don't fix this?

Have to drive 154 miles to this dealer to find the truck I wanted with options....not driving 308 miles to fix a bolt.

 

[Nervo19]

You can get a tap & die set and chase the 6mm thread. Use anti seize on the new screws. What I did was to get the smallest plastic drywall anchor and clip the tip of it and use a smaller than 6mm screw. I have a selection of stainless screws from the boating section at Walmart. Plastic drywall anchors are in the hardware area of course. The plastic eliminates contact between the two metals.

 

[ic0517]

Sounds like an employee at that dealer put an SAE bolt in there, buggered it up, and didn't man up.

 

[sts00]

You can get a tap & die set and chase the 6mm thread. Use anti seize on the new screws. What I did was to get the smallest plastic drywall anchor and clip the tip of it and use a smaller than 6mm screw. I have a selection of stainless screws from the boating section at Walmart. Plastic drywall anchors are in the hardware area of course. The plastic eliminates contact between the two metals.

That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about using a plastic threaded wall anchor. Going to wait till my plates come in the mail before I fix, only want to do this once.
Thanks.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I had an older Asian customer who didn't speak very good English (which always makes things hard when you need to be technical) once with a brand new 2014 Highlander (barely 100 on the Odometer) come in because he couldn't change his license plate or somehing. Turns out he tried to shove dry wall screws in there so hard he tore the spot welded nut off on the inner side of the hatch.

I then calmly tried to explain to him the damage he caused and how it will have to be sublet to our body shop and so on. Of course he threw a fit and tried to say it was fine, we just needed to change the screw, long story short... the easiest way to test my patience is to treat me like shit when I am going out of my way to help you as best as I can in a polite manner.

The guy left absolutely pissed that it was going to cost him over a hundred dollars to fix the issue (that he caused through his own incompetence.

~

Okay story time is over now...

You can try re-threading the nut and see if it will work, worst case scenario you may have to bump it up a thread size. In the event you do break the nut off the sheet metal. I would use a RivNut insert and just hit it with touch up paint.

 

[sts00]

That's a sweet tool.....I am going to get one of those. Much better that plastic. OEM's really should come up with a better system. These bolts are too easy to break and now I have no access to inside the lift hatch to get the broken bolt end. I am not taking apart the inside panels to get to it, probably break something in that process as well.

 

[Antman]

... now I have no access to inside the lift hatch to get the broken bolt end. I am not taking apart the inside panels to get to it, probably break something in that process as well.

It's very easy to get inside the hatch. It's a Toyota, nothing will break.

 

[Ras_Thavas]

My salesman did the same thing on mine, except with a self tapping bolt. Fortunately he came in and told me something seemed to be wrong so he did not screw it in all the way. When I got home I got out the tap set and cleaned the threads and put the right sized bolt in.

 

[LandCruiser]

When the dealer breaks something, I don't touch it and get them to fix it for free.

Any monkeying on my part may make them blame me for it.