Broken water pump stud (help...)

Sup41

Sup41

New member
Hey y'all,

In the process of replacing my thermostat one of the bolts for its housing snapped. It snapped so close to flush that I can't use the double bolt trick. Any other ideas? I tried removing the entire thermostat housing (water pump?) by removing the two most obvious bolts with no luck. Feeling pretty defeated...:ybrick:
 

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The first thing i would try is to preserve the threads and leave a complete drill out as a last resort. In the mean time i would put some penetrating oil on it, then use a punch to put a centered divot in the middle of the broken bolt, and use a reverse drill bit to try and remove it. Hopefully the reverse action will encourage the bolt the come out.
 
ZionXIX said:
The first thing i would try is to preserve the threads and leave a complete drill out as a last resort. In the mean time i would put some penetrating oil on it, then use a punch to put a centered divot in the middle of the broken bolt, and use a reverse drill bit to try and remove it. Hopefully the reverse action will encourage the bolt the come out.
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Nice. Alright. Anyone know if there is a way to get the complete housing out?
 
You should be able to pull the thermostat housing over it and have a good bit of stud to work with. Tap on it with a rubber mallet, the housing that is....
 
If I'm seeing it right, it looks like you have enough of the stud left to get on it sideways with a small pair of vice grips. The needle nose variety might be best. Careful not to mar the mating surface.

Buckaroo
 
As I see it you have 3 options:

1. As someone mentioned, try to get a pair of vise grips on the end. Maybe try to heat the bolt up a little to break the Loctite bond the stud probably has on the end.

2. Try to use an Easyout. Might have to grind the end flatter to get a flat surface, then use progressively larger bits to get to the largest Easyout size that will work. Be careful as if you break a drill bit or the Easyout in the hole your screwed and will have to move to option three.

3. Remove the WP. Will need that special tool to relax the tension on the TB tension. Once you have the 6 bolts off, then you should have plenty of stud to grab onto to either use a pair of vise grips or a stud removal tool.
 
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JRZEE2000TR4LTD said:
As I see it you have 3 options:

1. As someone mentioned, try to get a pair of vise grips on the end. Maybe try to heat the bolt up a little to break the Loctite bond the stud probably has on the end.

2. Try to use an Easyout. Might have to grind the end flatter to get a flat surface, then use progressively larger bits to get to the largest Easyout size that will work. Be careful as if you break a drill bit or the Easyout in the hole your screwed and will have to move to option three.

3. Remove the WP. Will need that special tool to relax the tension on the TB tension. Once you have the 6 Then you should have plenty of stud to grab onto to either use a pair of vise grips or a stud removal tool.
Click to expand...

Can you say more about option 3? I've attempted 1, and I am not risking 2 because the angle is so difficult I just know I'm gonna break a drill bit. So that leaves 3 but I can't seem to find good info on removing WP yet..
 
Sup41 said:
Can you say more about option 3? I've attempted 1, and I am not risking 2 because the angle is so difficult I just know I'm gonna break a drill bit. So that leaves 3 but I can't seem to find good info on removing WP yet..
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Lots of info on removing the TB/WP. Since you're just removing the WP, you should just be able to loosen the TB and remove the WP. Here's a DIY which shows the tool to loosen the tension on the TB.

Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement
 
remove wp and put it on a bench or vise and drill out the stud. easy for me as i have done it before. take it easy if it's the first time. if you are replacing the pump, just get a new bolt for the T-stat housing.
 
I am going to confess that I broke one of mine at 120K in 2012 doing my first TB change. (effing beam type torque wrench, now upgraded to Snap-On clicker.) I decided to just keep an eye on it for any leakage, bought a new stud, and plan to replace it at my next TB or WP change. So far, after 5 years and 60k, no leaks, no problems. I never need to top up coolant and no residue at the site. YMMV....
 
I wonder if someone before has used gasket sealer between the t-stat housing and water pump?

Two of the studs came out during my TB change; used some blue thread locker when putting them back in....
 
I've found that when changing the thermostat 1 or 2 of the studs sometimes come out.

Like LittleCaesar, I just put blue Loctite on them.
 
So I'm in a similar scenario here. Does anyone have the part number for the stud itself? This piece of crap is so seized together that two of the studs came out with the nuts rusted on solid, and the 3rd broke off. I've got about a half inch of thread sticking out, so I'm going to try a stud extractor first.

Edit: I'm getting conflicting results from online parts catalogs, but the ones that say yes are listing the p/n 90116-08270 for the 3 studs. Parts guy is supposed to call me back in the morning.
 
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At least I'll have the studs and nuts by tomorrow and for under $10. My one hope is that I've got enough threads sticking out for the stud extractor I ordered to get a grip so I don't have to remove the water pump.
 
It looks to me like you are going to have to remove your timing belt and then water pump. Be careful if you mess around with other extraction methods, your water pump is made of SOFT aluminum. A quick hint to save you from having to buy a new TB tensioner if you have to take the belt off: Stick it in a vice and compress it SLOWLY, then use a small allen wrench to stick through to hold it. IMO the TB tensioners never go bad, at 208k mine functioned just like new. If you do get all the way into it, you might consider changing the TB and WP...Mitsuboshi belt will run you $40, Aisin WP will be 60 and you'll be set for another 100k. I will warn you that doing a TB/WP for the first time took me the better part of a weekend, but I could do it again in my sleep.
 
You could weld à nut from thé inside on the stud , anď thé heat from thé weld may help to loosen the rest of thé stud . ...
Good Luck body....
 
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