Bucking at low speeds?
- Thread starter Dous
- Start date
cfranck1
New member
To check a Universal Joint, raise the rear axle. Place the vehicle in neutral and set the parking brake. Now rotate the drive shaft back and forth by hand, checking the joint for any play if any play is detected, the U-joint will have to be replaced. Check for signs of rust too. This usually means a U-joint that has no grease and is ready to be replaced soon.
cfranck1
New member
Ya, just put the jack under the pumpkin of the axle. Just put jack stands under each axle tube for support. Don't want to get under it without jack stands.
cfranck1
New member
cfranck1
New member
He said that he tried it without engine running. So that kinda rules out engine issues.
cfranck1
New member
Was just reading the entire post again, I think I might have found your issue.
Someone earlier mentioned flat spots on tire and I think the tires are to blame.
Not flat spots but a shifted or broken belt in the tire.
Is the truck pulling to one side or anything like that?
You said you beat the S**t out of them?? And not much tread left. You say that the vibration is getting worse?? Right?
Jack up each corner and spin each tire and take your hand and drag it along the tread of whole tire to feel for and abnormal bumps. If tire is worn badly, watch out for any steel belts showing. Could give you a nasty few cuts.
If you feel any bumps or anything abnormal a belt shifted or broke in the tire. Then the tire is junk.
A belt separation will cause a vibration that is small at first and gradually gets worse. In the later stages, a bulge may be found.
Someone earlier mentioned flat spots on tire and I think the tires are to blame.
Not flat spots but a shifted or broken belt in the tire.
Is the truck pulling to one side or anything like that?
You said you beat the S**t out of them?? And not much tread left. You say that the vibration is getting worse?? Right?
Jack up each corner and spin each tire and take your hand and drag it along the tread of whole tire to feel for and abnormal bumps. If tire is worn badly, watch out for any steel belts showing. Could give you a nasty few cuts.
If you feel any bumps or anything abnormal a belt shifted or broke in the tire. Then the tire is junk.
A belt separation will cause a vibration that is small at first and gradually gets worse. In the later stages, a bulge may be found.
cfranck1
New member
Could have just mud caked up on the inside of rim making it out of balance. Congrats if that was it!!
notrayray
New member
Now take the time to grease and check the u-joints.....
Dous
New member
Ok well I greased the U-joints and all that and the car did fine for a week. As I was driving down the road yesterday it started doing it again, it started off like regular, mild vibration and shaking. Then I returned to school from lunch, when I left the vibration and shaking was so severe that my rear view mirror was blurry as hell. I was scared at that point! It shakes till about 45 mph whereas before it only shook up until 10 MPH. Also, it will only have the spells every other time I drive. Are you guys still thinking its the U-Joints. I am pretty sure its not the tires, they seem fine evenly wore pretty much, and I am pretty sure the tires would not cause shaking and vibration this severe, and I can hear the driveshaft making a squeaking noise. Thanks
notrayray
New member
Tires can definitely cause lots of vibration and shaking......got to figure out what is squeeking though.
Lift the rear axle and put the truck in neutral and spin the driveshaft by hand to find the noise.
Also check all the flange bolts that are holding on your driveline.
notrayray
New member
No, you're right they can't (biased ply tires aside).....I meant shaking in general.
cfranck1
New member
That's good that they figured it out. I thought that in my first post here too that the torque converter was crapping out on you. The T. Converter is not that expensive, It's the labor that's going to suck.
Dous
New member
yea, I am taking it in someplace monday and they are gonna take the whole transmission down and check to see for sure if its the Torque Converter. Although the people at Firestone were 100% sure, just would like a second opinion anyway. Then from there get it replaced, should I go with a Toyota OEM part? Or can I go a cheaper aftermarket unit?
