Vehicle Jolt and Shifting Issues

[BigMike18]

I want to gauge the thoughts behind my 05 4runners recent transmission and shifting issues here on the forum.

I recently drove my 4runner and came to a normal stop at a light, not quick or abrupt or to slowly either, and once I stopped or was just about to stop, the entire vehicle jolted forward. This felt like I was tapped into from behind but just like a very strong punch forward of the body. Loud noise accompanied this and the acceleration from this light wasn't great and took a few seconds to return to normal.

Then a couple days later I let a family member borrow my car and she said the vehicle was having trouble shifting after getting over 40 mph.

I've replaced the transmission fluid back in October with true toyota fluid and I did it over the course of a few weeks to fully circulate through the system, a little each time.

I'm leaning towards the transmission being on its way out and bracing for the cost that will incur.

I'm going to take it a local toyota workshop of guys that are very knowledgeable, but I wanted to see what people on here thought since transmissions are not my forte exactly.

 

[Parks Junkie]

Trannys aren't my strength, but I know a little about them. Simple stuff, have you checked the fluid lately? I know you said you went thru the procedure last year, but trannys can be funny. Not that it's easy to check the fluid level, but the price is right at least. Any trouble lights on? On a BMW of mine when the MAF went out the tranny started shifting with a bang on every shift. I mean really hard. Not saying Toyota does the same, but these things are complicated enough things affect things you wouldn't expect them to affect.

 

[Voltan73]

What fluid type is your rig? If it's type WS, that could be the problem. WS fluid is not a DIY type of operation. I work the technicians parts counter at a Toyota dealership. To do this properly, a scan-tool is used, and the fluid has to be within a specific temperature range.

 

[Ron Helmuth]

Jolting can sometimes be solved with lubrication of drive shaft and yokes.

The fluid level checking as stated above by voltan is problematic. Must be done within temperature range of 95-113 or some similar figures. Scan tool or the bypass method utilizing a jumper within the diagnostic port is the way to go.

If you don't know what you are doing to properly check the level-- find someone you trust with said scan tool to verify you are getting the right process accomplished. Several helpful YouTube videos specific to 4th gens out there.

Even then what is considered a dribble to one person is another person's dripping. A bit too much fluid is probably better than a little too little.

If you have not already dropped the pan and replaced the tranny filter, gasket and cleaned the magnets you should....OEM probably the safest way to go but of course there are cheaper alternatives.

Watch your torque specs if you open up the pan. So much misinformation online.....:rockon:

 

[DK327]

Jolting can sometimes be solved with lubrication of drive shaft and yokes

Lubing the drive shaft resolved the jolting when stopped at a light issue for me. Red N Tacky grease and a grease gun with quick disconnect make it easy.

 

[Parks Junkie]

What fluid type is your rig? If it's type WS, that could be the problem. WS fluid is not a DIY type of operation. I work the technicians parts counter at a Toyota dealership. To do this properly, a scan-tool is used, and the fluid has to be within a specific temperature range.

Please expound, I at least need do a drain and fill in the near future.

 

[BigMike18]

What fluid type is your rig? If it's type WS, that could be the problem. WS fluid is not a DIY type of operation. I work the technicians parts counter at a Toyota dealership. To do this properly, a scan-tool is used, and the fluid has to be within a specific temperature range.

There is a guide on here that shows the jumper wire method which I followed exactly back when I did the fluid.

I chose to do that work because of the transmission problems I was having. This is where I would get up say 30-40 mph and no longer keep increasing in speed, but only in rpms for a short period.

 

[BigMike18]

Lubing the drive shaft resolved the jolting when stopped at a light issue for me. Red N Tacky grease and a grease gun with quick disconnect make it easy.

Thats what I've been leaning towards lately. I've heard people talk about a driveshaft clunk on here but I just figured it was the small little movement whenever you shift from say neutral to drive. Never thought it could be so violent.

Nevertheless I'm sure a grease application can only help down there especially at 260,000.

 

[Montego Murph]

I had a similar issue a few years ago -- don't panic, it may be something simple. Mine would appear to drop into neutral between shifting from 1 to 2, then S L A M hard into second.

Get yourself a can of DeOxit and a flashlight, and maybe a mirror or use your phone as a periscope of sorts.

Disconnect the battery before you begin. This will allow the ECM's to reset anything they may have learned, and plus you're working with electrical stuff so it's a best practice.

Crawl under the vehicle under the driver's side, just around where the pedals are. Look at the top left side of the transmission and look for a white plug coming out of the transmission with a cable going upwards. CAREFULLY flip the lever and disconnect the connector, and pull it upwards. Look at the pins and check for a bunch of corrosion in there. I bet you find some. This is where the transmission ECM connects to the valve body and tells the transmission how to do things. If you have corrosion, they're not talking back and forth very well. I will never understand why Toyota put such an important connector in such a vulnerable place.

Take the DeOxit spray and blast out the plug and the base. Wait maybe 20 minutes, then do it again. The pins are fragile, so don't go in there with a wire brush or a dremil to clean them.

After 2 or 3 rounds of spray-n-wait, let the pins dry for about an hour or so. You want it all to evaporate and leave the protectant behind. Smear a little dilectric grease on the seals so when you reconnect the connector, it keeps moisture out.

Reconnect everything and go for a ride. If everything works well, congratulate yourself for not spending thousands on a replacement transmission!

Let us know how it goes so the next person can search-n-learn.

 

[igwig]

could be a fluid issue, or maybe the brake switch? when my brake switch was busted i had issues shifting.