Build Thread: Mothra, the (blown) budget camping rig

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Very cool offroad vehicle. I'm running my '99 Limited as factory but put this interior camper mod together for a quick swap from street to trail.

It completely outfitted with a mattress, lighting, camp site canopy, table and even some magnetic bug screens for the rear windows and liftgate window.

The whole thing slides in and out in just a few minutes. Enough for a single person...
 

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Very cool offroad vehicle. I'm running my '99 Limited as factory but put this interior camper mod together for a quick swap from street to trail.

It completely outfitted with a mattress, lighting, camp site canopy, table and even some magnetic bug screens for the rear windows and liftgate window.

The whole thing slides in and out in just a few minutes. Enough for a single person...

Nice! That looks really cool!
 
Awesome! Thanks. Is that the power control wire?

No problem. Yes, it's a signal wire to either the power antenna, or an amplifier, if you are running one. Basically, it only sends signal when the radio is on, unless you have a switch or something installed inline to cut the signal.
 
New Years Trip to Colorado pt. 1

Did some last minute stuff in preparation for our trip to Colorado for New Years. Replaced the Sway bar bushings with Energy Suspension ones, the old ones were blown out completely. Handling has vastly improved. I need to the steering shaft mod soon.

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Also my brake master Cylinder began failing a couple weeks ago and wont hold pressure, when low brake force is being applied, which was odd. Salvage Master Cylinder from Japanese Truck Dismantling. Top Quality OEM part in good shape for much less than the cost of a rebuild kit, and 1/4 the price of a new one. Score! (not a paid advertisement, but this company was great to deal with, answered my question about specific part for my truck and I had my cylinder with a few days of ordering. Highly recommend).

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After all was said and done, we set out for an adventure.
Finally got pulled over for no Front license plate (ugly). Catch and release.

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Passed a pretty big Milestone:

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Here are some pictures from along the way:

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We did some snow-tubing. We are all up there from Texas. You can take the Texans out of Texas, but you can't take the Texas out of Texans. We had a blast towing the tube behind the 4Runner. Although finding legitimate tubes there was impossible. I guess no one outside of Texas understands tubing (toobing). We made do.

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One of the days, we all went out in search of some trails that were open, we found a few, but not much. I let my wife do quite a bit of driving and she really enjoyed it. She even did some rock crawling too, unfortunately I was too busy guiding her to really get good pics.

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New Years Trip to Colorado pt. 2

Stopped and did some skeet shooting as well.

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We also did some night wheeling, which was a stupid idea. Went to an area we had not been to, alone, with no real exact idea of where we were going with suspect maps (not impressed at all with Gaia GPS maps)

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We came to a frozen creek crossing, which appeared to be just water frozen on the road. It wasn't. It was actually pretty deep and we had a little difficulty getting out. I was worried I was going to have to get out and get the winch hooked up in the water. We did a driver change and powered through. Here's how it looked after we were through (turned around to get a better picture in the light).

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All in all, we had a blast and did some gold mining, skiing, wheeling, and just a good general vacation.

My wife noted what I have been complaining about; a glaring lack of power in the 4Runner. I've been bugging her for a while that the truck needs more power. We almost didn't make it up I-70 to the Eisenhower tunnel heading East. About 8 minutes at WOT in second gear to maintain speed. I know the truck is at altitude, but with 4.30s it should be doing better than that. She drove around and agreed it needs something better. So we talked about Superchargers and Turbos and gears. We settled on gears helping. I decided it was high time for a compression test when we got back before I made any purchases. The truck struggled the whole way home to maintain 75-80 (God Bless Texas speed limits and highways) even going from nearly 8k feet to about 600 feet above sea level.
 
Results of the compression test...

So I have been complaining that this truck lacks power across the entire range since I bought it, even before adding bumpers and extra weight. Actually, the extra weight really didn't seem to make a whole lot of difference in terms of power and maintaining speed. I have not ever done a compression test on this motor for one main reason; I almost did't want to know what the results are. The truck runs good, is smooth, and the engine is super quiet. You can only hear the injectors ticking. After driving a handful of other 3rd gens, mine is severely lacking power. Before spending money on gears, I wanted to do a compression test to rule out the motor, which I suspected was either really bad, or really good and nowhere in between.

And the winner is....


Really bad.

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Across pretty much all cylinders. Ranged from 132 PSI to 160 PSI. FSM reports 174+ is good. 145 minimum and not more than 15 PSI difference high to low.

So, as we can see the engine is pretty well out of spec. I decided to do a wet test, so I put a little oil in a few of the cylinders.

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Wet test shows Bad rings/worn bore. I've seen the insides of these engines and the cylinder bores still have the factory honing on them at high mileages, so I'm thinking rings. It doesn't smoke or lose oil, but my intake is filthy with oil and I just cleaned it and put a new PCV on (OEM). So that's where that's at.

So after discussing it with my wife, we weighed some options, for about a week.
One option being replace the motor, but with that come the concern I have for the transmission longevity after that.
Another option was a late 4th gen with a V8 and 5spd auto, that would surely satiate my desire for more power. But damn are the 4th gens so hideous, like really really ugly.
Finally, and most shockingly, my wife's suggestion; buy a 5th gen. She says either new motor or buy a new one that we won't be spending a bunch of money on maintenance. I tend to agree, but at $500-650/month for a payment alone does cut into the budget quite a bit.

*****Deliberation*****
 
Aaaaaaaand the winner is: NEW ENGINE

I decided on a new engine after really considering an earlier 5th gen and doing the '14+headlight swap (direct fit). But I just couldn't justify adding that kind of cost, and most importantly to me, ALL of the electronics. ALL OF THEM. It's too much.

So then the question was JDM or USDM mill.

JDM has the alleged lower mileage at around 60k, which can be had somewhat in my area for between $850 and $1050. After reading about it, they seem hit or miss and they require quite a bit of work to move everything over to work. Since I want to do this right, I would want to get most of the sensors and things brand new so I don't have to take it back apart later. Buy once, cry once.

This added quite a bit of extra money for a "60k" engine in an engine family where they reliably go well past 300k with basic maintenance.

USDM has the obvious drawback of more mileage. Finding an engine with any sort of mileage close to that around here is impossible, they don't exist in central Texas, everyone simply drives too much. My dad scored a set of 5 spoke wheels from a Junkyard in San Antonio for $200 for the whole set. They are 10/10 condition and we almost feel half- bad that we are going to paint them. I called and asked what yard it was and if he knew about it, since the wheels were in excellent shape it may be a lower mileage runner.
I called and asked, 99 2wd (boo) with 124K, rear ended by 18 wheeler, but drove to the yard to sell for salvage. I asked if I could look at the truck, it looked amazing, possibly the cleanest 4Runner I've seen, even the carpet (only thing left inside) had no stains. Motor looked clean and intake was nearly spotless. Picked it up, with removal by the yard, for less than any JDM engine I found. They even unhooked the wire harness, so theoretically, I can plug and play this motor. It's a 99 as well, but Federal Emission, where mine is California Emissions. I know the exhaust won't mate up, but wiring-wise I'm thinking should be the same. I know the Cali has an AFR up front, but I'm 99% sure that does not tie into this harness, so that should not matter. If anyone knows, please let me know if this won't work. I will be writing up an entire How-To, or at least a How we will pull and replace the motor.

So we'll see how it goes...

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Clean as a whistle:

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Timing belt looks old. No sticker on the cover.

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I have already ordered all the parts for thing while it's off. I'm pretty much going to do all the seals and WP/TB while it's here instead of in the truck. This "budget" build is completely blown at this point, and honestly, I couldn't be happier.

Also a little something for a few extra ponies in the works....
 

Yeah, problem is I have low compression across the board. I already use Restore, which a guy on youtube (Project Farm, great channel Does Restore Work? ) showed to work very well. No idea if it helped on mine, but with my low power, high mileage, and oil soaked intake after about 4k miles, I feel ok about dropping $1700 to put a basically new engine in it.
 
Cleaning up the motor pt. 1

So while I'm waiting for the weather to really cooperate with me, to drop this motor in, I've been cleaning it up and working on making it nice and ready to go when the time comes.

First set of goodies arrived, new JBA Headers!

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Decided to test fit them. They fit good so far, but very tight. Couldn't imagine doing them in the truck, now I understand all the complaints. 4

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Next, @%1; and I hung it on the stand and started working on cleaning it and tearing it down. By now, we know the top end of these motors like the back of our hands.

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Camshafts look great, I honestly think that the lobes look significantly larger than the lobes i remember seeing on my motor. Valve buckets are like mirrors and everything looks great under the valve covers.

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Cleaning up the motor pt. 2

I really wanted to spend some time painting the motor and making it look good and I think it was worth it. I decided on painting the valve covers red and the intake black. I think it looks great, it actually turned out better than I thought it would.

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The block is, well, the block, but I figured while it's out, why not paint it so it looks good?

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Putting it all together, I think it looks amazing. It looks even better in person. It looks better than an actual crate motor, especially those headers!

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Up next: Timing belt/water pump, paint a few more brackets, and reseal the valve covers. Then it's ready to go in the truck.
 
man that's the exact same reason I haven't compression tested mine. it runs great (almost 3K trouble free miles since buying it), sounds great, and has decent power. I really don't want to know the answer, don't want to keep myself up at night wondering about what I'm going to do with it.
 
Out with old, in with the new

So the old motor was finally starting to show some signs of death. I started getting an incomplete combustion code, even with new O2 sensors.

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So the only logical thing to do was start the 3 day process of changing the motor out. I initially wanted to make a guide, but I pretty much just read through this post (5vz-fe Removal) and went from there. I wanted to make a guide, but as I was doing it I realized that if you can't get the motor out after reading through that, you might not be up to the task of performing this swap.

Day 1: getting ready to pull the old motor out:
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I could not for the life of me get the starter out, so I removed the steering rack. It was coming out anyway, I also bought the pump, lines, and rack from the engine donor vehicle for less than any one component anywhere else.

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Then I made sure all the little brackets and things moved over to the new motor:

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Day 2: Remove the old motor and drop in the new motor

Both @%1;and my dad came over to help with this. This was a little more difficult than originally thought. The top 2 bolts on the Bellhousing did not want to come out. Probably about one minute of impact wrenching on each bolt finally broke them loose. Tip: use about 3 feet of wobble extensions and a wobble socket to get them out, not sure how else you'd do it.

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Here's where we figure out the motor isn't going to fit in the truck with the headers on. The collector is too long, so it come off and then putting it back on in the truck consumed over an hour. My plan to do headers is starting to look bad at this point and continued from there.

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We had a lot of issues getting the motor mounts to line up properly, probably because they were new mounts. Then we couldn't get the trans pins to set into the back of the motor, but finally with some ratchet straps it came together. We then spent the next several hours putting all the pulleys and hoses back on, until the sun finally set.

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I really wanted to hear it start that night, but when we hooked up the power wire to the starter, it arced and the starter seems like it was engaging. So we left it to sit over night, battery out. Seeming like something electrical was wrong with the starter itself, I opted to order a rebuilt starter from Toyota. Since this thing goes to some remote places, I didn't want to just put contacts in the starter and leave all the old stuff still in there. A new starter wasn't unreasonably expensive, so I just went for it. What's another 150 bucks at this point?

Day 3: Wrapping up
I pulled the starter and assessed the contacts. Apparently one contact spun while removing the power wire and it was contacting the plunger all the time. I removed it and pounded it flat to reinstall. It worked!!!

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Now I just needed to get the exhaust fixed and get an alignment. Badly.
 
Finished the exhaust

I took it to an exhaust shop to fix the exhaust up. I opted to just get a new pipe put on, I went with 2.5" exhaust from the headers-back. I wanted a high-tuck style tailpipe and it looks and sounds great. I also got a new High flow cat on, but retained the Borla muffler.

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First video of sound:
JBA Headers on 99 4runner
 
Dang Renegade, you've been busy...hence renaming your thread...ha

I haven't been on here for awhile and you've done a ton. Looks and sounds great! I really like the bedliner paint job.

Are you happy with the (felt) power after engine / exhaust overhaul?

I'm sure its in your thread somewhere, but I missed it. What wheels are those?

Great job!

Durwin
 
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Dang Renegade, you've been busy...hence renaming your thread...ha

I haven't been on here for awhile and you've done a ton. Looks and sounds great! I really like the bedliner paint job.

Are you happy with the (felt) power after engine / exhaust overhaul?

I'm sure its in your thread somewhere, but I missed it. What wheels are those?

Great job!

Durwin

Thanks.

As far as felt power increase, I'd say I'm actually a little disappointed. There really wasn't much of noticed increase in power. Some, but not as much as I'd hoped. It does have more power in the top end, but down low it feels about the same as before. I like the sound of the exhaust, but it was probably not worth the trouble of putting it in.

To expand on that, I will likely be changing up my gear ratios in the axles. I have 4.30 gears now and I want to go to 4.88 gears. That should help me bring some power back into this heavy truck.

The wheels are Konig Countersteer Type X. They are 17x8" with -10mm offset. You can see them here: FN Wheels
 
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