Bushings for UCA/LCA

[octanejunkie]

Just wanna be prepared in case these are needed

Looks like UCA bushings are OEM only? 48632-35080 go for about $30 each, need 4

Whiteline for LCA #W53377A about $69 for 4, both wheels
FWIW, this is the Napa PN. Does that mean Napa sells Whiteline as their house brand?

Any advice?

 

[BrianSD_42]

From what I've heard the aftermarket ones squeak and the OEM do not. I'd buy the OEM.

 

[meRockboost]

I got white lines for the lowers and new cam sleeves. No squeaks and lots of people run them.

 

[JayRolla]

From what I've heard the aftermarket ones squeak and the OEM do not. I'd buy the OEM.

Silicone or Marine grease won't wash out and should not sqeak. My es bushings sqeak like crazy but I didn't use the right grease and they did wash out.

Polys give unbinding travel of arms. Oems bind and tear if you wheel really hard.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I have to respectfully disagree --- but I don't know for sure, I'm just paranoid and I absolutely hate squeaks.

If you still have OEM LCAs then there is no zirc fitting to even add grease/lube of any kind. So adding more months later will be difficult and inefficient, right?

As for lube that doesnt wear off after 6 months or 1 year .... well I just don't believe it. I know there are threads about Poly squeaking the owners seemed very frustrated.

 

[octanejunkie]

:thanks: for the feedback so far, gents

I have poly bushings on my Chevy, and even though some are grease-able, eventually they all squeak. I'm not into it.

I found Toyota UCA bushings for about $27 online, with $15 shipping including two Rav4 3-hole windshield wiper sprayer nozzles (85381-42070 for $12.59 each) at mcgeorgetoyota.com

Looking for teh Toyota part number on the LCA bushings, and since I don't do ANY wheeling, OEM will probably be fine. I'm sure Whiteline will probably be fine too for that matter, but I'll compare the two and do more research.

Regarding alignment cam sleeves, do I need to replace those or can I re-use my existing ones assuming they are good and don't get damaged on removal?

 

[zoombyu86]

Keep us posted, I think I'll be in the market for new bushings before the snow drops.

 

[mtbtim]

:thanks: for the feedback so far, gents

I have poly bushings on my Chevy, and even though some are grease-able, eventually they all squeak. I'm not into it.

I found Toyota UCA bushings for about $27 online, with $15 shipping including two Rav4 3-hole windshield wiper sprayer nozzles (85381-42070 for $12.59 each) at mcgeorgetoyota.com

Looking for teh Toyota part number on the LCA bushings, and since I don't do ANY wheeling, OEM will probably be fine. I'm sure Whiteline will probably be fine too for that matter, but I'll compare the two and do more research.

Regarding alignment cam sleeves, do I need to replace those or can I re-use my existing ones assuming they are good and don't get damaged on removal?

OEM LCA bushings are pricey. $50/each so that's $200. Here's a link to the Camelback Toyota website. It's items #12 and #13
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...siteid=214329&vehicleid=84047&diagram=8414250
It's interesting to note that there's two different part numbers. One for the front of the arms and one for the rear of the arms. I guess with OEM the front bushings are different in some way from the rear bushings.

If it were me, I'd go with Whiteline poly. You're saving almost $150.

Pressing out the UCA bushings is a little tricky. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did some trial and error and ended up bending one of the used arms we had. The bottle jack trick won't work on UCAs. With a press, it's difficult to have a proper pressing platform to press the bushing out. Like the LCA bushings, the UCA bushings need to be pressed from the inside out. The other day, I finally figured out how to do it. I deformed the outer bushing sleeve enough with a hammer and chisel so I could fit a bearing splitter on there. With the bearing splitter firmly attached between the bushing sleeve and the arm, I now had an even and solid platform to support the arm while I pressed out the bushing from the inside. To press the bushing out, I got a long 3/8" drive impact extension and ran it through the opposing arm. The ratchet is then attached to an increaser 3/8" to 1/2" and finally to a 27mm impact socket. I found the 27mm impact socket fits the inner diameter really well and mates up with the bushing sleeve to press it out. We will be making a video of this in the near future.

I'm guessing you've already seen our video for the LCA Bushing Replacement, but for those that haven't, here it is:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[meRockboost]

I have to respectfully disagree --- but I don't know for sure, I'm just paranoid and I absolutely hate squeaks.

If you still have OEM LCAs then there is no zirc fitting to even add grease/lube of any kind. So adding more months later will be difficult and inefficient, right?

As for lube that doesnt wear off after 6 months or 1 year .... well I just don't believe it. I know there are threads about Poly squeaking the owners seemed very frustrated.

I hate squeaks too. I'm praying it won't happen, it's been a winter and a few deep water crossings and so far all good. Yes, to re-grease would be terrible.

 

[octanejunkie]

OEM LCA bushings are pricey. $50/each so that's $200. Here's a link to the Camelback Toyota website. It's items #12 and #13
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...siteid=214329&vehicleid=84047&diagram=8414250
It's interesting to note that there's two different part numbers. One for the front of the arms and one for the rear of the arms. I guess with OEM the front bushings are different in some way from the rear bushings.

If it were me, I'd go with Whiteline poly. You're saving almost $150.

Pressing out the UCA bushings is a little tricky. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did some trial and error and ended up bending one of the used arms we had. The bottle jack trick won't work on UCAs. With a press, it's difficult to have a proper pressing platform to press the bushing out. Like the LCA bushings, the UCA bushings need to be pressed from the inside out. The other day, I finally figured out how to do it. I deformed the outer bushing sleeve enough with a hammer and chisel so I could fit a bearing splitter on there. With the bearing splitter firmly attached between the bushing sleeve and the arm, I now had an even and solid platform to support the arm while I pressed out the bushing from the inside. To press the bushing out, I got a long 3/8" drive impact extension and ran it through the opposing arm. The ratchet is then attached to an increaser 3/8" to 1/2" and finally to a 27mm impact socket. I found the 27mm impact socket fits the inner diameter really well and mates up with the bushing sleeve to press it out. We will be making a video of this in the near future.

I'm guessing you've already seen our video for the LCA Bushing Replacement

Thanks for the info, and links, Tim

Yes, I've watched your video! The only thing I'd do different is remove and hang the brake calipers like you did with the hub assembly, other than that, Ill be coming to your house to swap my LCA bushings :couch2:

 

[Nate_GB]

Polys give unbinding travel of arms. Oems bind and tear if you wheel really hard.

This^^^

Oem is the way to go if you aren't looking for a performance upgrade. Poly bushings will allow faster and more precise suspension travel. They may squeek after time and require more maintenance if you want to avoid the squeeking, but that's generally the price that is paid for higher performance.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Oem is the way to go if you aren't looking for a performance upgrade. Poly bushings will allow faster and more precise suspension travel.

Ahhhh what? I seriously doubt that poly bushings, even if they have less resistance than OEM will somehow lead to --noticable-- "faster travel" the OEM bushings simply don't have that kind of resistance. Just think of the physics here. I'm guessing my position isn't going to be that popular.

In fact I'd guess most of the 4runners on the road and this forum are running OEM LCA bushings. How many lifted 3rd Gen 4Runners and how many have aftermarket LCA bushings? I'd guess very very few have aftermarket. All the trucks with lifts and OEM LCA bushings, eg my truck, are working fine last I heard. Of course OEM wear out but that is a 150k - 200k miles kind of issue. I'm at 245k miles.

Save some money .... Fine.
Potentially last longer ... Fine/maybe
Stiffer bushing .. sure

But I am hard pressed to believe the driver could tell the difference in any situation or that the aftermarket poly will actually go to 150k or 200k miles without squeaking to all hell like the OEM.

 

[JayRolla]

Ahhhh what? I seriously doubt that poly bushings, even if they have less resistance than OEM will somehow lead to "faster travel" the OEM bushings simply don't have that kind of resistance. Just think of the physics here. I'm guessing my position isn't going to be that popular.

In fact I'd guess most of the 4runners on the road and this forum are running OEM LCA bushings. How many lifted 3rd Gen 4Runners and how many have aftermarket LCA bushings? I'd guess very very few have aftermarket. All the trucks with lifts and OEM LCA bushings, eg my truck, are working fine last I heard. Of course OEM wear out but that is a 150k - 200k miles kind of issue. I'm at 245k miles.

Save some money .... Fine.
Potentially last longer ... Fine/maybe
Stiffer bushing .. sure

But I am hard pressed to believe the driver could tell the difference in any situation or that the aftermarket poly will actually go to 150k or 200k miles without squeaking to all hell like the OEM.

The polys allow full unbinding travel. Oems are super stiff. Enough so I feel they could hold a tire from drooping as easily on the trail. It's amazing how much oems bind up. You can tell a difference just lifting your rig up in jack stands.

If your a city slicker and worried about a little sqeaking on a 20 year old rig than go OEM.

If your a manly offroader and want the best performing rig on the trail go poly. Grease them correctly and you will be fine. Doing something right goes a long way. Install them wrong and you will regret it.

 

[octanejunkie]

If your a manly offroader and want the best performing rig on the trail go poly. Grease them correctly and you will be fine. Doing something right goes a long way. Install them wrong and you will regret it.

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] made a video showing what installing Whiteline LCA bushings involves. Unless I missed something, there is only one opportunity to grease anything meaningful, which is the inner sleeve into the poly bushing that comes unassembled to ease installation.

Since it appears that this sleeve rides on the cam adjustment sleeve (metal on metal) it would appear there is nothing further to grease, at least not easily, nor should there be any squeaking, unless the two sleeves fuse together over time due to rust, which is entirely possible.

The cost between the Whiteline kit and OEM is rather significant, which is why most folks go this route, I suspect.

I guess the better question is aside from problems aligning the vehicle which I don't believe I have, how can I determine if bushings are needed on a 250K mile vehicle, or is it just assumed at some point?

 

[JayRolla]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] made a video showing what installing Whiteline LCA bushings involves. Unless I missed something, there is only one opportunity to grease anything meaningful, which is the inner sleeve into the poly bushing that comes unassembled to ease installation.

Since it appears that this sleeve rides on the cam adjustment sleeve (metal on metal) it would appear there is nothing further to grease, at least not easily, nor should there be any squeaking, unless the two sleeves fuse together over time due to rust, which is entirely possible.

The cost between the Whiteline kit and OEM is rather significant, which is why most folks go this route, I suspect.

I guess the better question is aside from problems aligning the vehicle which I don't believe I have, how can I determine if bushings are needed on a 250K mile vehicle, or is it just assumed at some point?

My rubber bushings where completely gone from all the manly offroading.

Usually when they get this bad you will get a hard pull to the left or right when braking hard.

I thought the whitelines can pull out the sleeve and be greased? Or are they fused? If they are fused than they will also bind up like OEM's but I think they are a free floating bushing like the ES are.

 

[octanejunkie]

Usually when they get this bad you will get a hard pull to the left or right when braking hard.

Interesting you mention braking, because this is why I am looking at control arm bushings in the first place. I have a shimmy while braking SOMETIMES, other times I have a shimmy when NOT BRAKING. I've replaced my rotors, LBJs and have taken my truck in to have the wheels balanced and aligned often enough that they think I'm nuts.

So I'm looking at ITRE/OTRE and UCA/LCA bushings - I mean, what else is there at this point?

I thought the whitelines can pull out the sleeve and be greased? Or are they fused? If they are fused than they will also bind up like OEM's but I think they are a free floating bushing like the ES are.

The composition appears to be outer shell, then bushing, and an inner sleeve, that needs to be pressed in. Obviously grease it when pressing it in, but how/when else?

 

[JayRolla]

Interesting you mention braking, because this is why I am looking at control arm bushings in the first place. I have a shimmy while braking SOMETIMES, other times I have a shimmy when NOT BRAKING. I've replaced my rotors, LBJs and have taken my truck in to have the wheels balanced and aligned often enough that they think I'm nuts.

So I'm looking at ITRE/OTRE and UCA/LCA bushings - I mean, what else is there at this point?



The composition appears to be outer shell, then bushing, and an inner sleeve, that needs to be pressed in. Obviously grease it when pressing it in, but how/when else?

I thought the outer metal sleeve needed pressed in. The inner sleeve just slides in by hand.

 

[octanejunkie]

I thought the outer metal sleeve needed pressed in. The inner sleeve just slides in by hand.

the video [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] made shows the outer sleeve being pressed into the LCA, then the inner sleeve being pressed, both in a vice. I have no first hand experience to draw upon in this arena, sadly; hence this thread.