Buying a 4th Gen Tips? Suggestions on current

[Jeremy107]

Hello all, currently own a trusty 3rd gen and I am currently looking buying my wife a 4th gen since she loves T4Rs. We were just about to buy a brand new 5th gen but backed out due to buying land first.

Any tips on 4th gen buyers guides? I have found a decent one about 2 hours away, two previous owners, 140k, has had some front end damage but no deployed air bags or frame damage clean title. The carfax records show normal oil and tire rotation with the below service done, as well as two recalls. It is northern Kentucky/IL do asked for pic undernearth to show any rust or not. Any tips or suggestions on points of interest would be great as I am checking it out Saturday.

Did confirm dash is perfect which is rare!

 

[Jeremy107]

Carfax services at 100k behind standard oil changes

 

[twa318]

Start here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...modifications-write-ups-quick-links-faqs.html

In regards to what you posted, will need more info about model year, engine, drivetrain in order to give an opinion. Personally I wouldn't mess with a pre owned vehicle With reportable damage but that's just me.

 

[Legender]

Me also. Just don't like stuff that's been damaged. Generally never repaired correctly and paint starts to deteriorate first. Doesn't look bad. Assuming this is a V6, thus no TB/WP replaced. Read the link above and don't be afraid to schedule a PPI. Could save you some money/pain in the future. Good luck on your search.

 

[Anonymous4Runner]

Me also. Just don't like stuff that's been damaged. Generally never repaired correctly and paint starts to deteriorate first. Doesn't look bad. Assuming this is a V6, thus no TB/WP replaced. Read the link above and don't be afraid to schedule a PPI. Could save you some money/pain in the future. Good luck on your search.

He shouldn't be afraid to do a PPI. I feel like this is a MUST-DO task for any buyer looking into getting a vehicle. I'd rather pay for a thorough inspection instead of quickly getting on the ground to check underbody and say "okay, i will pay you xxx cash based on what I see so far. Looks great!" only to get screwed over because of something that was hidden out of sight upon visual inspection

My only recommendation for PPI is to take it to a dealer or mechanic you trust

 

[Jeremy107]

Start here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...modifications-write-ups-quick-links-faqs.html

In regards to what you posted, will need more info about model year, engine, drivetrain in order to give an opinion. Personally I wouldn't mess with a pre owned vehicle With reportable damage but that's just me.

It’s an 06 4x4 with the 4.7 IForce, I also agree to an extend on the reported damage. Honestly a bumper replaced is the least of my worries, as long as no air bags were deployed and no structure damages then I just view the areas of impact and make an assessment. My post is more direct on points of interest (3rd gens have the trans milkshake/LBJs ex those type of tips is more what I’m looking for.

We are on a very small time window on getting a vehicle for her due to the previous car finally crapped out. She has work/nursing school to attend every day so trying the do my due diligence. Again thanks all for the help

There is a dealer about 20 mins away from the seller and it’s a 60$ inspection from Toyota, advises do not hook up to the computer but it is a multi point inspection. Would this suffice since it is from a dealer? I’ve never paid for one always just did my own inspections

 

[Samm25]

Be sure to keep in mind the Secondary Air Injection Pumps. If they go out or haven't been replaced that's about a $2k+ repair if you opt to not bypass them.

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[Jeremy107]

From research i believe this is not preventable and just happens? Unless it has already been repaired of course. Am I correct?

The job doesn’t look to bad as I have done some motor surgery before but for sure want to avoid it if I can

 

[Juicy]

It’s an 06 4x4 with the 4.7 IForce, I also agree to an extend on the reported damage. Honestly a bumper replaced is the least of my worries, as long as no air bags were deployed and no structure damages then I just view the areas of impact and make an assessment. My post is more direct on points of interest (3rd gens have the trans milkshake/LBJs ex those type of tips is more what I’m looking for.

V8 has timing belt/water pump- recommended to be changed every 90k/9 years, they can have the rear driveshaft clunk, make sure it goes into 4lo- expensive fix- also check center diff. That pre-purchase thread someone else posted should have almost all your answers in it.

 

[Jeremy107]

V8 has timing belt/water pump- recommended to be changed every 90k/9 years, they can have the rear driveshaft clunk, make sure it goes into 4lo- expensive fix- also check center diff. That pre-purchase thread someone else posted should have almost all your answers in it.

Great info, what I’m looking for stuff like this. Thanks everyone!! Any more suggestions would be great!

 

[AuSeeker]

As mentioned, very important, timming belt conformation at or aorund 90,000 miles, if done they usually install a sticker somewhere under the hodd/engine compartment, I didn't think mine had ever been done until one day I happened to look upwards and found the sticker on the underside of the hood itself, so look all over to see if you can find a timming belt sticker, if you find it has been done be sure to check the water pump is not leaking, if it is the leak/coolant WILL deteriorate the belt and shorten it's life considerablely, if the timming belt breaks or slips more than a tooth or two it can and most likely will destroy the engine, as in valves and pistons.

The 4th Gen cracked/melted dash issue are only an issue on 2003 to 2005 year models so you most likely will never have a issue on the 2006 model.

From the very few photos of the chassis/frame the rust look to be a non issue, check all the frame for heavy rust, BUT the places to look very carefully for rust would be the radiator support, if it's rusted badly it can be replaced at a cost but also check the tubing attached behind the support for the same bad rust issues, another trouble area is the top of the frame in the front right/passenger wheel well back near the firewall, this is where the AC condensation drips onto the top of the frame.

There are 3 types of possible suspension, regular, X-Reas in which all the shocks are interconnected hydraulically diagonally, i.e. left front/right rear, etc., and air suspension in which there will be air bags in the rear, if it has X-Reas check very carefully ALL components for any signs of leaks, if any are found the entire system needs to be replaced at a very high cost, BUT the entire system can be removed and replaced with standard susoension components for a faction of the cost but still a high cost, with air inspect the bags for any signs of dry rotting and MAKE sure they are in good condition, if not the entire system can be replaced for around $700 in parts if you get the parts from RockAuto instead of Toyota which is much, much higher in cost, or again replace with standard components.

The above mentioned/linked topic has A LOT of info so check it out!!!

 

[TowMeOut]

Be sure to shift it into 4Lo numerous times. Listen for clunks or other "bad" noises. If it shifts into 4Lo at all that's better than a lot of used 4th gens. Our T-case actuator is a big weak spot with this series.

 

[Jeremy107]

Be sure to shift it into 4Lo numerous times. Listen for clunks or other "bad" noises. If it shifts into 4Lo at all that's better than a lot of used 4th gens. Our T-case actuator is a big weak spot with this series.

The black one did not check out, seemed it may have had some issues going with it so I declined to purchase it after looking it over. I found a white one local, rare for me being local in TN ha. Absolutely ZERO rust, literally none. V6 selectvtrac whoch is nice.Been in TN it’s entire life, has had the back bumper replaced (no damage underneath) was hoping it checked out but seems it will not go into 4wd. Had a code but I didn’t have my scanner to check it. I actually know the guy who has it, told him about this common problem, he said he will have his mechanic check it and and if needs replaced that’s not problem he will get it replaced.


https://nashville.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2008-toyota-4runner-sport/6549799462.html

 

[dropspace]

come to Texas and get this one:

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/d/toyota-4runner-v8-limited-4wd/6529837552.html

only 45k miles! dang thing looks basically new.

 

[Jeremy107]

come to Texas and get this one:

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/d/toyota-4runner-v8-limited-4wd/6529837552.html

only 45k miles! dang thing looks basically new.

Wow! 45k miles but that price tag!

Found one 4 hours away and dealer promises no rust. 105k miles and already had a Toyota tech inspection. Going Saturday to purchase more than likely. Going to offer 12.5k. Thoughts?

Pics below of the under carriage, looks like just some surface rust. Only has 105k which I’m amazed. Thoughts from anyone would be greatly appreciated

https://www.toyotaonnicholasville.com/vehicle-details/used-2006-toyota-4runner-sr5-JTEBU14R160095717

 

[Juicy]

Wow! 45k miles but that price tag!

Found one 4 hours away and dealer promises no rust. 105k miles and already had a Toyota tech inspection. Going Saturday to purchase more than likely. Going to offer 12.5k. Thoughts?

Pics below of the under carriage, looks like just some surface rust. Only has 105k which I’m amazed. Thoughts from anyone would be greatly appreciated

https://www.toyotaonnicholasville.com/vehicle-details/used-2006-toyota-4runner-sr5-JTEBU14R160095717

Open the sunroof and check for rust; another issue some people have is their sunroof rattles.
The rubber on the rear hatch handle can melt and get really sticky on these, make sure it's still there (mine was missing when I bought it).
The orange light on the screen under the radio that has temp/clock, etc. goes out too. My first one had no light at all but I didn't notice (bought it in the daytime) until I drove at night for the first time a few days later. The one I have now is starting to flicker and it only has 45k on it.

These may be easy fixes/minor things for a lot of people but I am very detail oriented and like everything to work when I buy something lol

 

[RunnerDad]

Looking at an 08 Sport

Looking for the collective wisdom of the group. Looking (remotely thus far) as an 08 V6 Sport just under 150k miles. Carfax/dealer records look mostly good (a gap the last 15k miles under a new owner, not surprising). Dealer took a few on-ground underbody photos for me - to me the rust looks superficial, but would like more experienced eyes to look at it. I will of course do a personal inspection and then a PPI at a nearby Toyota dealer.

 

[280kT4R]

V8 4th Gen is the move

 

[Tironeous]

Looks decent but hard to tell how serious the rust is. The best advice I can offer you is to be patient. I looked for about 6 months before I found what I was looking for. Once you find the right one be ready to move fast. The clean trucks tend to sell fast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RunnerDad]

clarification on PPI details

I noted the secondary air bypass threads but wondered - do these apply to the 4th gen V6 as well or is it just a V8 thing?