Buying a '99 that has been parked for 5 yrs...Any MUST DO maintenance before driving?

[Whistler RKT]

So I'm buying a buddy's '99 SR5 5 speed T4R that has been parked for 5 years now up at his cabin out in the bush.

Now it's not as bad as it sounds...it was maintained meticulously by Toyota Dealerships since day 1, never missed anything that needed doing, and before taking it up to his cabin, he had all the fluids and filters done, and put on new rubber with plans of it being his fishing/bush truck. Then 2 babies and a new home construction project came up and he just hasn't had a chance to get up to the cabin much, which is why he offered to sell it to me when he heard I was looking for a 3rd gen.

When he parked it, he pulled the battery out and left it on a trickle charger. He's been up to the cabin a couple of times since then, both times putting the battery back in, firing it up, and driving it a bit just to keep things moving.

The area is relatively dry for British Columbia standards (100 Mile House area) and she's been parked fully outside in the elements. I imagine there will be some rust issues, but not as bad as if it was parked in Vancouver!

So my 2 questions for the gurus...you know who you are!

1. If she starts up and feels safe to drive (brakes work!), would I be doing any damage or diservice to the vehicle if I drove it back to civilization (about 500 kms, 300 miles) running the old gas, old fluids, etc?

2. Is there any MUST DO maintenance that should be done before driving it?

I don't want to do any damage and I'm trying to decide whether to rent a car trailer and trailer it home or whether I'd be OK to drive her home...

Any other mechanical cautionary warnings or tales of past woes dealing with rescuing a parked T4R are welcome.

Thank you in advance!

 

[SilentYoda3]

First thing that comes to my mind is the gas tank. Assuming there's a drastic change in temperature that means that condensation on the gas tank. Ultimately leaving gas/water mix in your tank. I assume you could use some fuel treatment and be alright. As for any rust or anything, I really don't think there should be much, since there's no tire spray up underneath it should actually be pretty good up underneath.

Before I WOULD FEEL COMFORTABLE driving it home, here's what I would do:
-Fuel treatment for any water and an octane booster/fuel system cleaner (bg44k if you can)
-let it idle and warm up
-test drive it
-if it drives and stops like it should, sweet
-look underneath just in case for any rust
-check tires for dry rot
-check rubber boots on the steering, cv axles, also bushings to see how they've faired. (sway bar, etc etc)
-check the sunroof for any signs of leaking if it has one (I'd be worried about freezing and thawing would damage the seal on the sunroof)
-that's just about all I can think about right now, Oh! if you have a multimeter or something available, use it to make sure the truck is charging correctly.

That's what I can think of off the top of my head. If everything checks out within your comfortable reason, I don't see why you couldn't drive it home. Check the oil and fluids to see if they need to be changed when you get home too. But should be fine if it wasn't driven much. Oil never really goes bad, it's just the additives in it so that's not really a concern on engine lubrication.

 

[Whitson Metalworks]

how long has it been since it last cranked? reason I ask is there are a LOT of moving parts in the valve train that need oil on them and i would be leery of firing it up if the valve train has been drying itself off for a number of years, yikes!

Also, you would be shocked at where dirt-daubers can get and build a frickin mud condo!

 

[BlackCat914]

check air filter area for mouse nests. I wouldn't drain the tank, I'd drive it until it was nearly out of gas, fill it back up, and then replace the fuel filter. Change the oil before driving it. If the brakes work, you should be good, but flush the system when you get it home. Expect a bit of smoke on start up. The valve seals have dried out by now. It *should* go away after driving for some time. Is the truck on concrete or dirt? Tires might be a bit flat spotted, but you'll know the minute you get on pavement.

 

[SJC4Runner]

I personally wouldn't take a risk of bad gas clogging injectors. I'd drain it, but then I have had bad experiences with bad gas. Perhaps even replace the fuel filter. How old is the gas? I mean if the guy has been starting it up ever couple of months it might not be that old. If the battery is 5 years old for sure, I might replace it. It's only a matter of time. At minimum have jumper cables in the truck. I would Check the transmission fluid and the radiator fluid make sure there isn't any corrosion and that your not going to wind up with pink milkshake 100 miles in on the drive back. If I saw any signs of corrosion in the radiator fluid I would replace the radiator or install an aftermarket transmission cooler and bypass the radiator(so that your transmission fluid and radiator can not mix) and then replace the radiator when I got home. Since you live in a cold area, I think it would be wise to make sure you are using the radiator cooler in addition to the aftermarket tranny cooler during the winter (so don't by pass the radiator and then leave it that way permanently).

I would think it might be a good idea to pull the fuses to the ignition and crank it a little bit so oil can get circulated a little bit. Don't continuously crank btw, you'll melt down the starter doing that. Let it cool between cranks.

 

[TheDurk]

If the gas IS 5 years old, you MUST drain it. You will be sorry you didn't, if you don't. I don't care what additives you dump in it. My tractor guys run into this a lot, and it is accepted that old gas does bad things. And a cast-iron carburetor 4-banger is much less finicky than a 5VZ-FE. Make sure you have good brakes. I'd prefer to change the oil, but waiting until you get home is probably ok.

 

[JayRolla]

Again, before I fired this thing I would drain gas, fill tank too full. Check air filter, any wires for mouse damage and make sure you change the oil. You could get away with starting it for a bit but dont run it on that old oil. Plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, drive belts should all be changed. Tires could be dry rotted and could fail on your. Also a break job would be a good idea.

 

[SJC4Runner]

check that there is air in the spare too!

 

[dorton]

Depending on how long since last started, I'd consider pulling the plus and fogging the cylinders too.

 

[JohnsD90]

If the gas IS 5 years old, you MUST drain it. You will be sorry you didn't, if you don't. I don't care what additives you dump in it. My tractor guys run into this a lot, and it is accepted that old gas does bad things. And a cast-iron carburetor 4-banger is much less finicky than a 5VZ-FE. Make sure you have good brakes. I'd prefer to change the oil, but waiting until you get home is probably ok.

Bad gas in old 4 banger carb'd motors is pretty bad, it kills the fuel lines and eats the seals on the carbs. I've had bad gas in the 3.4 before, never caused me any long term issues. I would change the oil and drain the tank though, i would rather not run into those issues if i didnt have too.

 

[Willhickey]

Do you have to drop the tank to drain the tank? If so I would just undo the fuel filter and turn the key to on with a bucket will take a while but better than dropping a tank on something possibly rusty...

 

[UnderFire]

1st thing on my list every time, make sure the brakes are working!

 

[Whistler RKT]

Thanks for all the input guys!

So as long as the brakes are functioning, the tires aren't square, and there aren't any mice living under the hood, I'll be taking the advice of draining the fuel tank as best as I can (with a syphon and empty jerry cans) and putting in 10 gallons of fresh "supreme" along with some fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner and driving her back home where she will get a thorough inspection and then the attention she needs. There's a quick-lube along the way, where I'll do an oil change and fuel filter change to get her there as happy as possible.

I have budgeted for up to $2,000 worth of maintenance to get the old girl back to her former daily-driver glory.

I'll put together a resurrection/build thread and add it in the build thread sticky this Fall.

Thanks again friends! This site never ceases to amaze me with so many people going out of their way to lend their time and advice. :bravo: Thank you!

 

[OffRoadGuy]

If you really want to do it properly. This is how, but if you want to take a chance that's your business. Its very similar to outboard engine that's been sitting for awhile. Believe you me, Honda and Yamaha engines aren't cheap.

1 - Pump out old gas, flush tank is even better. Add new high octane gas.
2 - Change oil and filter. Oil sitting that long might have slugged up.
3 - Most important, Remove and clean all spark plugs, squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil spark plug hole and hand crank, wait 30 mins and repeat. Don't over do it with the Marvel Mystery Oil, do it until you're confident that the cylinder walls are well lubricated.
4 - Suggest you change t-stat, sitting so long it might seized up.
5 - Lubricate all linkage
6 - Change air filter
7 - Replace fluid in brake reservoir, might have collected water. Check rotors might be all rusted.

Follow these steps you'll be in good shape.

 

[Robb235]

Just curious, why high octane gas?

 

[OffRoadGuy]

Just curious, why high octane gas?

Higher octane gives you more of a complete burn. Also contains more detergent to help clean the injectors.

 

[Robb235]

Higher octane gives you more of a complete burn. Also contains more detergent to help clean the injectors.

I don't think either one of those points are true. I have never heard that higher octane "burns more complete". Higher octane has a better ability to resist detonation, which is good for high compression and boosted motors. Since neither one applies, I don't see why high octane is needed (which is what prompted my question).

As far as detergents go, I think that will vary depending what brand of gas you use, not what octane you choose. If you want to clean your fuel system, throwing in a bottle of Techron is going to be much more effective than the grade of gas you put in.

 

[BlackCat914]

I don't think either one of those points are true. I have never heard that higher octane "burns more complete". Higher octane has a better ability to resist detonation, which is good for high compression and boosted motors. Since neither one applies, I don't see why high octane is needed (which is what prompted my question).

As far as detergents go, I think that will vary depending what brand of gas you use, not what octane you choose. If you want to clean your fuel system, throwing in a bottle of Techron is going to be much more effective than the grade of gas you put in.

You're correct. He should also be totally fine getting away without draining the tank, these trucks don't have carbs, so it's not like there's needles and jets that get gummed up with varnish. The fuel filter will stop nearly all the debris anyway. Gas has so many detergents in it now adays, it's not like it was 40 years ago. It lasts much longer than people think it does.