Buying an e-locker rear, could use advice

[TravThePro]

I'm planning on buying an entire stock e-locker axle assembly (drum to drum, including all wiring and the ECU for the e-locker) from a guy local to me for $600. Is there any advice that any of you could give me with the purchase (including if I'm over-paying)? The main reason for the swap lies in the fact that I've already got issues with my stock 3rd member and my spartan locker hasn't stood up to the 35s nearly as well as I was hoping it would.

If anyone has built and/or trussed their rear axle, I would like to find out some of the options you guys ran and your thoughts on them. Where would Chromoly half shafts be necessary? Another guy local to me runs 40s and the e-locker rear end (with stock half shafts) and has never broken anything.

I'd also like to know if there is a possible way of testing it, the issue lies in the fact that the entire motor, tranny, and rest of the wiring harness/battery is no longer there.

Thanks in advance!

 

[kolelt]

There is plenty of info how to test the motor. $600 isn’t a bad price for everything. Cheaper would be nice ofcourse lol. However, it is most likely different gear ratio then your front diff right now. So you will need matching gear set.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] makes a very good point. You'll need a front diff with 4.30 gearing or you'll have to re-gear yours. See if the guy selling you the locker and associated parts will throw in the front diff as well for the same price. If you could get the front diff thrown in for $600, I'd say you're getting a fair price.

Here's a couple videos that might help you out if you make the purchase. For the front diff replacement video, read the pinned comment because we found a much easier way to get the diff out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qAznG_WoS44" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w_gPiDvh9v4" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Lamer]

for testing the motor, these two pins inside the plug are your go to's. I wired a fresh 9v battery to them and you can hear the motor actuate. if you can pull the motor off the diff and test it you will see the gear rotate.

definitely confirm the gear ratio with the spin test before you buy, do it twice to be sure. if you have 4:10 gears it may be easier to find a 1998-2004 TRD Tacoma rear axle because they are more commonly geared in 4:10 with the e-locker from factory. the downside of this is the axle housing will more likely be set up for leaf springs, so you will need the coil spring axle housing (or modify your own).

your current housing

e-locked housing after modification (this is the same housing as pictured above)

(I have the 4:30 e locked hub to hub axle assembly, but am looking for a 4:10 e locked diff that I can trade for. I really dont want/need to swap my front diff)

also if you have scrap yards near by, you can pick one up way cheaper. I paid $250 hub to hub, $30 for ECU and Diff switch. but I will not be using the ecu or the switch as I want to be able to use mine under any driving condition and not just 4L. How-To

 

[kolelt]

[MENTION=78966]Lamer[/MENTION] made a good point that I forgot. If it’s a elocker from Tacoma. Then it might be 4.10 ratio. But the axle is set up for leaf springs and not coils.

 

[tx_shooter]

When I bought my elocker upgrade I did get the front axle assembly and the rear axle drum-to-drum for $550. That was a couple of years ago and it has been a great upgrade.

I was lucky that the previous owner had already rebuilt both axles with the intent to install them in his 4R before it got totaled. His loss was my gain. In retrospect I was lucky and i recommend going ahead and swapping gaskets/ seals before installing.

As for the locker controller - I skipped the factory box and went with the Low Range OffRoad kit so as I could use the locker in 2WD, 4Hi and 4Lo. This setup was easy to install and has been problem free.

 

[Scramble]

It's much easier to run an aftermarket harness than the factory harness & ECU. Plug it in to the actuator, run it to the dash for the switch, power to the battery & ground it.

 

[rkntoy]

It's much easier to run an aftermarket harness than the factory harness & ECU Plug it in to the actuator, run it to the dash for the switch, power to the battery & ground it.

Unless your 4runner is prewired for the switch and 4x4ECU.

But if yours is a 1996 odds are very low that your rig is prewired.

 

[jman11788]

I know many people probably wont give this advice. However, if you're planning to run 35's and off road with the locker quite a bit i would suggest taking the 3rd out of the axle and replace the pinion bearing and replace the crush sleeve with a solid collar.

The pre loads on the bearing tend to change when the locker is engaged with a crush sleeve. You might get lucky and never have an issue with it. But from my experience and other people having issues its happened quite a bunch. With a solid collar the pre load cant change and you should never have an issue with a pinion bearing.

Changing the bearing and sleeve may not be worth it to you. But it might be better to do it now than later :shrug: