How To: DIY 3rd Gen 4Runner 8" Retrofit Elocker Wiring

I figure I'd share my knowledge in how I did my elocker wiring since a few people have asked and I halfway started it in another thread anyways. So, 'without further ado' for those wanting to bypass the elocker computer and button here you go.

Items You Will Need

1) EDIT: OTRATTW no longer carries this switch body. DPDT Momentary Switch Body (VLD1A60B) These can be found at other sites as well, but make sure it is a 8 circuit DPDT *Momentary* Switch.

2) "Rear Locker" Switch lens of your choice color. These can be found on other sites as well, but your main colors are as followed.
Blue
Red

3) You will need around 20' of cable that is 18 gauge at least and you have enough to wire up the 6 wires coming from the elocker plug. You can make 3 runs of 2 conductor or one single run of 6 conductor (best solution). Some people buy the 6 or 7 conductor trailer wire but it can be pricey.

4) You will need around 10' of 16-18 guage 2 conductor to run from the switch to the battery.

5) Wire loom and zip ties to run the cable in under the truck.

6) You'll want to solder your cable to the wires off the plug of the elocker as well as use some shrink wrap to melt around the solder to secure it. If you don't have access to one, do the best you can in making these wires very secure. There needs to be play for when the body/axle flexes. Make sure you write down what color wire goes to what from the plug cus you will need this during installment of the switch. You DO NOT need any other kind of elocker harness other than the harness that plugs into the elocker motor itself.

7) At least 6 crimp on female connectors to connect cabling to switch.

8) In-line fuse holder and 10A fuse for power to battery.

Operation

Most likely if you're reading this the only thing your elocker came with was the harness that plugs into the elocker itself. On this harness you have two plugs. One plug with 2 wires that controls the locker detection switch and another plug with 5 wires that controls the locker motor and locker motor limit switch. On the other end of this harness you will have a couple more connectors that would plug into another harness. These you don't need, so cut them off and strip back the wiring. Begin soldering the wires to your provided cable. Please note you will have 7 wires total. You will have two white/black wires, one coming from the 5 wired plug and another from the 2 wired plug. These will be spliced together and ran as one wire. A good tip at this time would be to write down what color wires are corresponding with your wires off the elocker harness. You will need to know this later when installing the switch. If you are using 3 runs of 2 conductor I would suggest numbering both ends as of your provided cable so you know what red & black wire goes to what since you have 3 pairs of the same colored wire. 6 Conductor will have all separate colors so it makes it a bit easier.

After you have successfully connected and ran your elocker cable to the front of the cab you need to run your 2 conductor for your power to the switch. Splice in an in-line fuse holder on the positive wire side with a 10A fuse. When you have ran all the wires, now is the time to connect the negative wire lead from the elocker cable to the black negative wire lead coming from the 2 conductor that you ran to the battery. After this, begin connecting all your female connectors and finally install the connectors to the back of your switch and place in whichever spot you want. You will most likely have to cut a little bit of the edges on the location to get the switch to fit in there. Notice, you will need to make two small jumper wires for running your loops for the switch. See pictures and diagram below. These diagrams are based off the cabling I ran. Please DO NOT associate the colors I ran with yours unless they are exactly the same.







Here are a few other write-ups and items that might help you with the install or be worth reading. Some of the links might be dead as well.

Full write ups:

Toyota Electric Locker

E-locker

Retrofit Electric Locker

Toyota Electric Locker

Retrofitting a Factory Toyota Elocker

Toyota 4Runner SR5 Locker Install

87 Toyota Electric Locking differential install page


Wiring stuff:

Using a double pole double throw switch to run Locker

http://www.norcalttora.com/~****/Writeup%20Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf

Picasa Web Albums - Jerod - Pictures

http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/locker_wiring.jpg

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Wiring Diagrams/Overall Wiring Diagram.pdf Page 38 and 42 of the PDF

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Wiring_Manual/03tacoma/systemci/039rdl.pdf

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/elec_locker_wiring.gif

ARKRWLR you sir are a Genius..... I was just waiting for something like this.

Not sure how I missed this when you first posted but thank you. I'm about to install a elocker in my wifes 2003 and this will be very helpful. Great job :thumb3:

thanks guys.. good luck to you all.

GreAt thread.

So to clarify, the colors you have listed are the locker harness colors and the association they have with the switch?

Edit:
[MENTION=58830]JWaldz[/MENTION] Can you also, elaborate on the note in your photo concerning the ground. Can this not be ground to the chassis? Or does it needs to be connected to the the battery?

ajonesnv said:

So to clarify, the colors you have listed are the locker harness colors and the association they have with the switch?

Edit:
[MENTION=58830]JWaldz[/MENTION] Can you also, elaborate on the note in your photo concerning the ground. Can this not be ground to the chassis? Or does it needs to be connected to the the battery?

Click to expand...

Correct.. I listed where each wire from the elocker needs to go on the switch. Don't associate the colors in the picture as the colors from the elocker b/c that's just the wiring I personally used. So for instance, if you notice on #1 connector for the switch is a white wire in the picture but I note that it's connected to the green/yellow wire from the elocker wiring. I tried to keep most of the wires the same if I could, so you'll notice #5 on the switch I used a green wire and it's spliced to the green wire from the elocker wiring. I only did this for simplicity for myself.

Yes, it can be ground to the chassis but since I used paired/2-conductor I just went ahead and ran it to the battery. I actually have a blue sea fuse block I wired it too, but same effect.

Perfect! Thx.

Hey so it has been a bit, but thanks for this thread. It ended up working out perfectly. Are you still running yours this way, have you ever considered adding the ECU?

So there are no inline fuses ? Or relays involved?

Is there a way to wire in the oem Ecu locker without having a prewired harness ??

So how hard is it to remove the wiring from a e-locker equipped 4Runner?

I'm getting ready to swap in my Tundra rear axle with 5.29s and a Detroit and would like to be able to sell the factory rear elocker equipped axle assembly complete WITH the wiring and switch....but I'm no electrical guy in the slightest.

Is it as simple as just following the wires leading from the actuator on the elocker from the rear axle, under the body and up into the cab/under the dash.....or is it wired in with a bunch of other stuff? If it's the latter....the buyer is on their own, but if it's relatively simple to isolate, I'd like to be able to give someone the wiring and switch.

Sean K. said:

Is it as simple as just following the wires leading from the actuator on the elocker from the rear axle, under the body and up into the cab/under the dash.....or is it wired in with a bunch of other stuff?

Click to expand...

My '98 was pre-wired up front behind the dash and kick panel, but did not have the harness that ran under the truck to actuate the locker itself. I had already dropped the tank on my parts truck for another project, so getting at the harness was super easy.

Of course, on the recipient truck I haven't run the wires yet b/c I don't want to drop the tank.

Edit, on my parts truck, it was a standalone harness heading aft from the kick panel though I've read elsewhere that some folks have other wires bundled along with it. Maybe it's just a '98 thing, who knows.

mckennar said:

My '98 was pre-wired up front behind the dash and kick panel, but did not have the harness that ran under the truck to actuate the locker itself. I had already dropped the tank on my parts truck for another project, so getting at the harness was super easy.

Of course, on the recipient truck I haven't run the wires yet b/c I don't want to drop the tank.

Edit, on my parts truck, it was a standalone harness heading aft from the kick panel though I've read elsewhere that some folks have other wires bundled along with it. Maybe it's just a '98 thing, who knows.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info....I'm yanking the tank and making one to go behind the rear axle anyway....guess I'll find out what kind of hornet's nest I'm kicking once I get started on that project.

Is it possible to wire in the oem elocker Ecu if you are not prewired ?

Sean K. said:

Thanks for the info....I'm yanking the tank and making one to go behind the rear axle anyway....guess I'll find out what kind of hornet's nest I'm kicking once I get started on that project.

Click to expand...

The factory harness portion that's under the truck is kind of difficult to get to. Yanking things out of the way will obviously make it easier. I'm not sure I've seen anyone sell an entire (used) factory harness like that, which tells me that either it's really hard to get to, or it's not removable. Good luck.

JWaldz said:

The factory harness portion that's under the truck is kind of difficult to get to. Yanking things out of the way will obviously make it easier. I'm not sure I've seen anyone sell an entire (used) factory harness like that, which tells me that either it's really hard to get to, or it's not removable. Good luck.

Click to expand...

Good point.....if you don't see them sold that way...it's probably b/c it's too much hassle or that harness is bundled with another harness, making removal a PITA.

I been trying to get in touch with 12votguy , they sell a prewired harness for a decent price. But I cannot place a order through my iPhone. And I emailed them with no luck.

96 Elock Swap

Really Good info, thank you!

Sean K. said:

So how hard is it to remove the wiring from a e-locker equipped 4Runner?

I'm getting ready to swap in my Tundra rear axle with 5.29s and a Detroit and would like to be able to sell the factory rear elocker equipped axle assembly complete WITH the wiring and switch....but I'm no electrical guy in the slightest.

Is it as simple as just following the wires leading from the actuator on the elocker from the rear axle, under the body and up into the cab/under the dash.....or is it wired in with a bunch of other stuff? If it's the latter....the buyer is on their own, but if it's relatively simple to isolate, I'd like to be able to give someone the wiring and switch.

Click to expand...

I literally just did this this weekend. Luckily my buddy was parting out the runner so it didn't matter much on how we got it out.
It sucks! removed the entire dash to get it out. We got it 95% out before we started cutting wires.
It was enough of a pain in the ass that i'm going to go ahead and order a harness from 12volt guy.
I do have the dash button, computer, and most of the harness though.

ajordan1975 said:

I literally just did this this weekend. Luckily my buddy was parting out the runner so it didn't matter much on how we got it out.
It sucks! removed the entire dash to get it out. We got it 95% out before we started cutting wires.
It was enough of a pain in the ass that i'm going to go ahead and order a harness from 12volt guy.
I do have the dash button, computer, and most of the harness though.

Click to expand...

Thanks....very good to know.