Calipers New vs Reman

[Monty87ls]

Im in need of brakes soon and I'm considering doing the 5th gen upgrade all around which isn't gonna be cheap by any means. Im on Rockauto and pretty decided what im getting besides the calipers.

Right now its Raybestos R-300 rotors, Akebono performance pads and im between new or remanufactured calipers both Raybestos.

Anyone recommend one over the other? Why? price wise its pretty close, Its cheaper the reman route by maybe $50-$70 depending on what the shipping costs to send the old ones back but I do have to package the and ship back so that's time and effort aswell.

Going to pick up my 2 cans of caliper paint that I paid $5 for later today :biggrin2:

 

[Drcoffee]

I look at the warranty period when buying reman calipers. If its warranty is 2 years, thats how long it will last. I know from experience. When I went to make my claim, I looked at the receipt where it said 24 month. My cars caliper was 26 months old. :suspicious:

I just replaced all 4 of mine and used cardone powder coated calipers. They have a 10 yr warranty.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I like the coated ones from Rockauto. Seem to be holding up pretty well.

 

[Monty87ls]

I look at the warranty period when buying reman calipers. If its warranty is 2 years, thats how long it will last. I know from experience. When I went to make my claim, I looked at the receipt where it said 24 month. My cars caliper was 26 months old. :suspicious:

I just replaced all 4 of mine and used cardone powder coated calipers. They have a 10 yr warranty.

Shoot I didn't even notice where they posted the warranty info! Looks like I'm going cardone also! Centric and power stop was 90 days! next highest was 2 years which isn't so bad really but since im still in the middle of divorce and bankruptcy soon after I might as well get the longer warranty just in case im stuck in this truck for that long I won't have to worry about them lol

 

[Monty87ls]

Correction the Nugeon brand has limited lifetime. Never heard of them before I don't think.

 

[Too Stroked]

The big difference in remanufactured calipers (or pretty much anything remanufactured for that matter) is the parts and the process they use. The cores they start with are pretty much - but not all - all OEM. You can take a good core, "remanufacture" it with a poorly controlled process using cheap parts and end up with a great looking caliper that's not going to last as long as OEM. Or you might end up with something pretty good. How do you know what you're getting? I'd suggest the warranty is a pretty good indicator.

My son recently bought some fancy remanufactured red painted calipers for his Scion tC. I didn't trust the quality of the parts they used, so we bought an OEM caliper rebuild kit and replaced the parts inside with OEM stuff. Oddly enough, the stuff we pulled out looked pretty pathetic compared with the new OEM stuff we put back in. Yup. You get what you pay for!

 

[FordF150]

I have a 2005 with 150,000 miles. The front calipers (4) cylinders stick. Best thing to do is replace them with new or rebuilds because even though a good mechanic can free the old ones up, they will stick again.

Save yourself a lot of time. Don't "free" them yourself. Buy new/rebuilt :artist2nes.

Cardone will work.
Don't forget NAPA.

I like NAPA - especially their oil which is over here at Kelly's now and then.

I watched a good mechanic spend two/3 hours trying to free up the calipers so they could work. Puts them on and they stick again.

 

[Zero0575]

I'll throw in my anecdotal experience. I haven't purchased new, but got 2 reman Cardone calipers for the front from Rockauto about a year and 15,000 miles ago. One of them was DOA and leaked from where the brake line connects to it. Getting a replacement was super simple, and I haven't had any issues since.

I've also gotten new parts that were DOA (not calipers, but still), so there isn't really a 100% correct answer to this question. Buy your parts, install your parts, and if they don't work get them replaced under warranty. I would guess that reman is more of a gamble, but I don't have any statistics to back that up.

 

[Monty87ls]

I have a 2005 with 150,000 miles. The front calipers (4) cylinders stick. Best thing to do is replace them with new or rebuilds because even though a good mechanic can free the old ones up, they will stick again.

Save yourself a lot of time. don't "free" them yourself. Buy new :artist2nes.

Thats the plan along with upgrading them to 5th gen vs 4th gen. Just wanted to see the different opinions on new vs remanufactured.

Gonna go with the Cardone whenever I order them. Not sure how long Ill have this truck but I want them to work as long as i do!

I love the 4runner but 3 kids I need something bigger either back to a Pilot or Ill go with a Highlander whenever I can get things together.

 

[gimlithepirate]

I grabbed Napa reman calipers, mainly because it made the core return easier compared to the RockAuto ones. Plus I was somewhat concerned RockAuto wouldn't take the core back since I would be returning a 4th gen core for a 5th gen caliper.

At one point I thought I had a problem with them, but the clunk when I hit the breaks turned out to be ball joints... From what I remember they have a lifetime warranty, but it doesn't look like they are carrying their own brand of calipers anymore unfortunately.

 

[Monty87ls]

I'll throw in my anecdotal experience. I haven't purchased new, but got 2 reman Cardone calipers for the front from Rockauto about a year and 15,000 miles ago. One of them was DOA and leaked from where the brake line connects to it. Getting a replacement was super simple, and I haven't had any issues since.

I've also gotten new parts that were DOA (not calipers, but still), so there isn't really a 100% correct answer to this question. Buy your parts, install your parts, and if they don't work get them replaced under warranty. I would guess that reman is more of a gamble, but I don't have any statistics to back that up.

Your comment didn't pop uo until after I posted my last one, Do you know which ones they were? they have 2 different grade apparently one lower one higher. The higher having a 10 year warranty but now that I've added them to the cart the shipping has gone up and price due to all of them coming from different warehouses. Guess ill do a bit of thinking on it and see what I wanna do.

At this point I'm sure whatever I choose will last me as long as I need it to.

 

[Monty87ls]

I grabbed Napa reman calipers, mainly because it made the core return easier compared to the RockAuto ones. Plus I was somewhat concerned RockAuto wouldn't take the core back since I would be returning a 4th gen core for a 5th gen caliper.

At one point I thought I had a problem with them, but the clunk when I hit the breaks turned out to be ball joints... From what I remember they have a lifetime warranty, but it doesn't look like they are carrying their own brand of calipers anymore unfortunately.

Ill have to check them out just to see what they have now. Advance auto says lifetime for their brand but 95.99 each vs $40 or more less at rock auto!

 

[Monty87ls]

I know that the front calipers are replaced but the original owner at 85k and I got it at 87k but I don't wanna tear everything down and have an issue. He used cheap pads and didn't replace the rotors so not happy with the breaking currently. just about to hit 104k

 

[Zero0575]

Your comment didn't pop uo until after I posted my last one, Do you know which ones they were? they have 2 different grade apparently one lower one higher. The higher having a 10 year warranty but now that I've added them to the cart the shipping has gone up and price due to all of them coming from different warehouses. Guess ill do a bit of thinking on it and see what I wanna do.

At this point I'm sure whatever I choose will last me as long as I need it to.

Part # 192767 and 192766 are the ones I used - the uncoated ones with a 2 year/24k mile warranty. Again, haven't had issues since I got the DOA one replaced and I've taken them on several long trips on steep grades with lots of downhill braking so they have been put through some paces already.

 

[rwh963]

my understanding with "new" toyota calipers is they are remanufactured units. i think the only new calipers are the ones that are on new vehicles. manufacturers may set aside new stock for warranty work.

 

[Drcoffee]

Your comment didn't pop uo until after I posted my last one, Do you know which ones they were? they have 2 different grade apparently one lower one higher. The higher having a 10 year warranty but now that I've added them to the cart the shipping has gone up and price due to all of them coming from different warehouses. Guess ill do a bit of thinking on it and see what I wanna do.

At this point I'm sure whatever I choose will last me as long as I need it to.

Rockauto website can be weird. I have had the same issue with shipping from diff locations. I close it down and come back later to check the shopping cart and suddenly they all ship from the same warehouse.

Im beginning to wonder if RA is being deceptive.

 

[Monty87ls]

Rockauto website can be weird. I have had the same issue with shipping from diff locations. I close it down and come back later to check the shopping cart and suddenly they all ship from the same warehouse.

Im beginning to wonder if RA is being deceptive.

Interesting I may give that a try.

 

[HIMILESV8SPORT]

Toyota OEM are new calipers

I put 2010-2014 calipers on my 04 v8 sport for less than $320 shipped. Look around, some dealers go almost 35% off list online. Remans are good for 20-30k, new oem usually get 60-80k at least. For me the extra $$ was well worth it. Running remans in the rear for close to 25k, will most likely go new there when they fail. If part number is only 10 digits, it's new. If it's 12 and ends in 84, it's a reman.

 

[Hwy88-Taco]

All (aftermarket) reman are sub-par

I put 2010-2014 calipers on my 04 v8 sport for less than $320 shipped. Look around, some dealers go almost 35% off list online. Remans are good for 20-30k, new oem usually get 60-80k at least. For me the extra $$ was well worth it. Running remans in the rear for close to 25k, will most likely go new there when they fail. If part number is only 10 digits, it's new. If it's 12 and ends in 84, it's a reman.

I agree with most of this concept too. Plenty of online (Toyota) dealers will sell at far more discounted rate than my local dealer.

The aftermarket (new and rebuilt) use an oem casting to start and use whatever cheap guts they can source. They customize the exterior for their brand and fluctuate the price accordingly.

I bought a pair (oem) from a salvage yard online and the Toyota caliper rebuild kit from a dealer. The kit comes with the caliper boots (2 types), piston seals, bore seals and grease. It also comes with the little boots for the bolts. DOES NOT INCLUDE PISTONS

Oem pads. Came with the pins and clips and the spreaders.


YouTube is your friend for the process. 45 min sans paint.
Rebuild kit, Brake clean, wire wheel, pic tool, scotchbrite cloth, tap for the bleeders and new bleeders.
$150 done


My best advise for this approach is to pay close attention to two elements.

1. OEM casting. If this is overlooked then you may as well have just bought used remans.

2. The pistons. NO RUST. They should be corrosion free. There will be some brake dust residue but it should wipe off easily.

 

[AuSeeker]

I agree with most of this concept too. Plenty of online (Toyota) dealers will sell at far more discounted rate than my local dealer.

The aftermarket (new and rebuilt) use an oem casting to start and use whatever cheap guts they can source. They customize the exterior for their brand and fluctuate the price accordingly.

I bought a pair (oem) from a salvage yard online and the Toyota caliper rebuild kit from a dealer. The kit comes with the caliper boots (2 types), piston seals, bore seals and grease. It also comes with the little boots for the bolts. DOES NOT INCLUDE PISTONS

Oem pads. Came with the pins and clips and the spreaders.



YouTube is your friend for the process. 45 min sans paint.
Rebuild kit, Brake clean, wire wheel, pic tool, scotchbrite cloth, tap for the bleeders and new bleeders.
$150 done


My best advise for this approach is to pay close attention to two elements.

1. OEM casting. If this is overlooked then you may as well have just bought used remans.

2. The pistons. NO RUST. They should be corrosion free. There will be some brake dust residue but it should wipe off easily.

The $150 cost you posted, is that for 2 or 4 calipers, and does that include the new OEM pads?