Calling all 17x9 -38

[montijo505]

Title says it all. I’ve seen 5th gens running these dimensions all day. Anyone in a 4th gen rocking 17x9 -38 SCS’s? I’ve been slowly saving and am finally about ready to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Would love to run this size but I’ve been told it won’t work. I’m running a toytec 3” coilover lift, SPC UCA’s, already have a BMC done. Currently running 17x9 -6 with 285/70R17 Trail Grapplers. What’s the difference in MM from -6 to -38? Only rubs backing out of the driveway on the fender liner. I’m willing to go further down the rabbit hole in regards to trimming/cutting to make these work. Someone egg me on!

Also pics and what mods did you do to run them? Thanks guys.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Formidable]

That wheel width and offset are very aggressive. They will poke out of the fender flares exactly 1” more than your wheels right now. See the following chart. An easy way to test the fitment without investing 1k is to buy 1” wheel spacers. I think there is a used set for sale right now in the 4th gen specific thread. Push your wheels out 1” and see for yourself exactly what you need to do to make it work. Or... abort ship and sell the spacers for a minimum to no loss.

Title says it all. I’ve seen 5th gens running these dimensions all day. Anyone in a 4th gen rocking 17x9 -38 SCS’s? I’ve been slowly saving and am finally about ready to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Would love to run this size but I’ve been told it won’t work. I’m running a toytec 3” coilover lift, SPC UCA’s, already have a BMC done. Currently running 17x9 -6 with 285/70R17 Trail Grapplers. What’s the difference in MM from -6 to -38? Only rubs backing out of the driveway on the fender liner. I’m willing to go further down the rabbit hole in regards to trimming/cutting to make these work. Someone egg me on!

Also pics and what mods did you do to run them? Thanks guys.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Formidable]

Ask the guy selling the spacers what the width is. He didn’t post this info. From the pic they look to be 1” wheel spacers. This is the route I would take before throwing any significant cash at this. Link below.

4th Gen specific for sale thread

 

[scottblink23]

Title says it all. I’ve seen 5th gens running these dimensions all day. Anyone in a 4th gen rocking 17x9 -38 SCS’s? I’ve been slowly saving and am finally about ready to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Would love to run this size but I’ve been told it won’t work. I’m running a toytec 3” coilover lift, SPC UCA’s, already have a BMC done. Currently running 17x9 -6 with 285/70R17 Trail Grapplers. What’s the difference in MM from -6 to -38? Only rubs backing out of the driveway on the fender liner. I’m willing to go further down the rabbit hole in regards to trimming/cutting to make these work. Someone egg me on!

Also pics and what mods did you do to run them? Thanks guys.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey I noticed you pulled the trigger on these. I am seriously considering these rims. What are your thoughts on them? Did they end up working out? Do they stick out "too far"? Can you post pics from the side? lol - sorry for the 20 questions.

Thanks!

 

[jgmx893]

That wheel width and offset are very aggressive. They will poke out of the fender flares exactly 1” more than your wheels right now. See the following chart. An easy way to test the fitment without investing 1k is to buy 1” wheel spacers. I think there is a used set for sale right now in the 4th gen specific thread. Push your wheels out 1” and see for yourself exactly what you need to do to make it work. Or... abort ship and sell the spacers for a minimum to no loss.

I never understood this chart exactly, can anyone explain it?

By my logic, with an offset of 0mm, the hub mating face should be exactly in the center of the wheel, no? Which should then mean a backspacing of exactly half the wheel width. This chart(among others I've seen), contradicts that. Anyone able to explain?

 

[montijo505]

Hey I noticed you pulled the trigger on these. I am seriously considering these rims. What are your thoughts on them? Did they end up working out? Do they stick out "too far"? Can you post pics from the side? lol - sorry for the 20 questions.



Thanks!

They are awesome. The finish and quality are great. I didn’t have a hard time getting them to fit, but I had a 3” toytec coilover lift, body mount chop and SPC UCA’s already. That being said, I did install a 1” body lift to help and also set my UCA’s to the farthest position forward to help clearing the body mount. I did have to trim the lower front bumper quite a bit as well. Well worth it.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scottblink23]

Thanks man - I have a 3 inch OME lift + top spacer, ICON UCAs, No BMC ... where do you think I'd rub?

 

[Formidable]

The more negative the offset the more the mating surface is pushed towards the back of the wheel. Another way to think about it is the wheel will stick out further from the fender as compared with zero offset. More negative offset wheels also correspond to bigger lips in the front of the wheel depending on wheel design.

If you check 9” wheel on the chart I previously posted and look at -6 offset you will see that when you compare the backspacing with -38 offset you get approximately 1.25”

Just an FYI, there are a TON of videos and explanations online regarding offset and backspacing.

I never understood this chart exactly, can anyone explain it?

By my logic, with an offset of 0mm, the hub mating face should be exactly in the center of the wheel, no? Which should then mean a backspacing of exactly half the wheel width. This chart(among others I've seen), contradicts that. Anyone able to explain?

 

[scottblink23]

by the way they look awesome!

 

[montijo505]

by the way they look awesome!

Definitely on the body mount. You’ll have to chop it for sure. It sounds more complicated than it is. Any local welder will do it for around $20-$30 including blocking the hole off with plate metal. Just spray paint it so it doesn’t rust. Also the front bumper on the lower inside edge will need trimming. A dremel is best but I literally used a sharp utility knife.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scottblink23]

Thanks man - I've got a CBI front bumper so fortunately I won't have to worry about the front. The BMC doesn't intimidate me.. bring it on!

 

[montijo505]

Thanks man - I've got a CBI front bumper so fortunately I won't have to worry about the front. The BMC doesn't intimidate me.. bring it on!

Seriously can’t recommend the wheels enough. They look super aggressive. I get compliments every time I drive it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[barryjacob8]

Just found this thread, live in Rio Rancho area as well and can't wait to save up and get these wheels! Didnt know how they would look from the side but you posted some pretty awesome shots and I know that I forsure want these!

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Heffernan]

Willtheyfit.com is a good site to answer offset questions.

 

[montijo505]

Just found this thread, live in Rio Rancho area as well and can't wait to save up and get these wheels! Didnt know how they would look from the side but you posted some pretty awesome shots and I know that I forsure want these!

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

You're welcome to look at it anytime!

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[rdruss]

I never understood this chart exactly, can anyone explain it?

By my logic, with an offset of 0mm, the hub mating face should be exactly in the center of the wheel, no? Which should then mean a backspacing of exactly half the wheel width. This chart(among others I've seen), contradicts that. Anyone able to explain?

I agree and that is what the picture seems to show in opposition to what the chart says.

 

[Parkss1181]

They are awesome. The finish and quality are great. I didn’t have a hard time getting them to fit, but I had a 3” toytec coilover lift, body mount chop and SPC UCA’s already. That being said, I did install a 1” body lift to help and also set my UCA’s to the farthest position forward to help clearing the body mount. I did have to trim the lower front bumper quite a bit as well. Well worth it.
View attachment 338052View attachment 338053View attachment 338054



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry to chime in so late.. looks awesome by the way!! I just ordered a set of 285/55/r20 and ordering a set of 20x12 hard rock crusher H704’s on a -44 offset. Little less offset then your wheels and I’m planning on going the 3” suspension lift and 1 inch body lift along with any trimming needed, body chop and flattening the pinch welds. My only question is how did you move the UCA’s forward more to help clearance and also how did you pick the bumper up off the frame to mount and compensate for the 1” gap that it would have had?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[montijo505]

Sorry to chime in so late.. looks awesome by the way!! I just ordered a set of 285/55/r20 and ordering a set of 20x12 hard rock crusher H704’s on a -44 offset. Little less offset then your wheels and I’m planning on going the 3” suspension lift and 1 inch body lift along with any trimming needed, body chop and flattening the pinch welds. My only question is how did you move the UCA’s forward more to help clearance and also how did you pick the bumper up off the frame to mount and compensate for the 1” gap that it would have had?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will have more offset than me. The more negative, the wider if that makes sense. I commented on your thread the other day. I'll be interested to see if you can fit them.

I have SPC adjustable upper control arms that are meant for this very thing. The bumper stretches. You just loosen the bottom screws, install body lift and tighten them back down. No modification required.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Parkss1181]

You will have more offset than me. The more negative, the wider if that makes sense. I commented on your thread the other day. I'll be interested to see if you can fit them.

I have SPC adjustable upper control arms that are meant for this very thing. The bumper stretches. You just loosen the bottom screws, install body lift and tighten them back down. No modification required.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Gotcha, was lookin for a 4” suspension lift but I guess they don’t make them.. And yes a little bit wider, and lol now I remember! I didn’t even realize but yes I’ll be updating my tread when I get those wheels and test fit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[montijo505]

Gotcha, was lookin for a 4” suspension lift but I guess they don’t make them.. And yes a little bit wider, and lol now I remember! I didn’t even realize but yes I’ll be updating my tread when I get those wheels and test fit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The max is about 3" suspension. IFS only allows so much because of the CV axles. Even at 3" the angles get weird and the boots just can't handle it. Make sure you do the "boot slide mod" after your lift.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk