Calling out the sub-box gods

Man, the misinformation flying around is mind-boggling.

Bucket81, where did you learn about car audio? Since when does the price of a driver determine it's efficiency? And using a 10-inch driver means a vented alignment isn't necessary? For who? Under what circumstances, and under who's listening preferences?
 
From the best.

I've worked on the the lower to highest end in car audio ($35K Focal systems) and when your going on the low end, and in a smaller vehicle and with the least amount of space I go with a single 10 in a sealed custom box (no prefabbed BS). With an amp on the upper limits of the sub.

I have seen so many boxes that have been built by customers that where just plain wrong. For a person to build a properly ported box tgey need to have a extensive knowledge of building boxes in order to get it right. And yes you can blow a sub with your box.
 
I think your over thinking it, most people use around a $150 driver? That's not a real efficient sub in the first place, its not really going to perform much better with a box that is slightly larger or smaller (your better off a bit smaller IMO) as long as the sub has proper power and the amp is powered properly, and its a sealed box. When your doing a single 10 a ported box is unnecessary.

From the best.

I've worked on the the lower to highest end in car audio ($35K Focal systems) and when your going on the low end, and in a smaller vehicle and with the least amount of space I go with a single 10 in a sealed custom box (no prefabbed BS). With an amp on the upper limits of the sub.

I have seen so many boxes that have been built by customers that where just plain wrong. For a person to build a properly ported box tgey need to have a extensive knowledge of building boxes in order to get it right. And yes you can blow a sub with your box.

The cost of the driver has nothing to do with how well it performs. You can buy drivers with all different types of specs/parameters. Using the specs you can narrow down what drivers will work well for how you intend to use it, environment it's going to be installed into, and what type of enclosure you'd like to use.

There are subs that are not optimal in sealed enclosures and also ones not optimal in vented . Most do have some tolerance to go into either, but they will always work better in one or the other. The specs can dictate or push you in the direction of what type enclosure would work best with "X" sub. This is how all those fancy software programs can configure the enclosure design for you...it's based off what specs/parameters you enter into the software for "X" sub.

You can't simply say one 10" in a sealed enclosure is the way to go. Along with that, it's also incorrect to assume a 10" sub won't sound good in a vented enclosure...or isn't "necessary". What do you mean by "necessary" anyway? More accurately, you could say "brand X sub sounds great in this type enclosure in this type of vehicle". Due to cabin gain, the same sub/enclosure combo installed into one type of vehicle, may sound completely different or even horrible in another type of vehicle.

I have a 1.4 cu.ft. vented enclosure tuned to 33hz with two 8" Alpine Type-R subs getting around 900 watts @ 1ohm. I've rarely heard two 8's sound this loud or go this low in all my years of car audio....and it's an SQ setup...not SPL. I would have no problem advising someone with a midsized SUV interested in a clean sounding system to install the same setup because I know it sounds good, the enclosure is designed for them, and the vehicle would be very close to what I have...so chances are, it would sound much the same in theirs.
 
I'm not saying your all wrong, I agree that it all depends on the driver and what in individual wants.

What I'm saying is I have seen so many systems with home made boxes that where, well disappointing. A sealed box is a simple solution and a 10 is usually works along a broad rang of music.

From my experience a cheap sub is less likely to blow in a box thats build a little out of spec. I've seen quite a few JL W6s and W7s fried because of ports gone wrong.

I'm just saying if a novice is going to build a box its safer with a sealed box.
 
i thought I'd post my finished results for this thread; although you guys have some amazing knowledge with this kind of stuff and I cant imagine how good your guy's systems sound, I chose to stick what was in my head. I'm very stubborn like that sometimes.

Anyway as i said earlier, I'm a sucker for sound and music. I've played in many bands and music has been a big part of my life for a long time. I can tell an instrument is out of tune from a mile away etc. So yeah i was a little worried changing everything up. well, let me tell you, this set up sounds flawless! I am very pleased with the performance/sound of the Pioneer SwX251 I cant believe how clean it made everything sound. I'm happy! anyway here are some pics, and the link is on the 1st page if you want to see the full build

thanks again guys!
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cargobox006-4_zpsa79e8249.jpg~original
 

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